stryd_one

Thanks ;) Good news: They aren't the ones I suspected they were Bad news: those are gigantic knobs!

LOL :D :D I meant, paste the chinese text from the pages you linked, into google - not the letter 'B' ;)

I started writing up a big reply, and it kept expanding with "... if it's X martial art; but if it's Y martial art...." Which MA are we talking about here?

LOL. "it's not broken, but it's broken" :D Maybe you haven't used the correct resistors for your LEDs... This could certainly cause power supply issues at startup. Logic levels. Search the forum, I've explained this before someplace, including links to more info, etc. HCT are more susceptible to noise due to looser levels. Another one for the forum search. I don't wanna start that argument again ;)

Hehehehe Looks the same to me... Interesting it has the black silicon guard more like the real hakko, and the metal plug more like my clone... If you wanna know the difference between 'b' and 'B' models, paste that chinese text into google traslate (don't bother trying the whole page, it's blocked on every translator I tried anyway)

I've seen them used in basic flight control systems... It works like you'd think, just a wire with high resistance. As for sourcing it... I'll let you do the hunt, good luck :)

Awesome :)

I use static shielding always... The chances of frying something with static are low, for example let's say it's 1000:1... After you've done 1000 repairs, chances are, you're gonna bust something ;) When you've done as many repairs as me, you've crossed that line, fried stuff, and done it a few times.... and eventually decided "shit, maybe I should wear static protection". Of course, it's down to chance, so you might get unlucky on your first touch, which is why I suggest the static protection from the very beginning... I know one guy who pulled a $1200 peripheral from a server on his first day, reinserted it, and it was dead.... The touching metal thing you mentioned is not sufficient. I think you're mixing up an old techo's trick, which is to discharge yourself by touching something metal -which is grounded-, like the back of a PC case. It helps, but it's probably not enough - especially if you wear any unnatural fibres such as polyester, which like to generate static when you move around. Touching a random piece of metal that's not earthed may discharge some electricity (never all), or you might just pick some up :( Personally, I wear an ankle strap (stays outta the way) and work on wood surfaces (so I don't use a mat) when I'm at home. Is it essential? No. Is it a very good idea? Definitely.

If you edit your first post to use url tags, the link will be clickable. I'm guessing, but if those are the ones I think they are, they're known to be problematic.

Personally, I'd be looking at Audiocommander's work on the Sensorizer ;) (oh, and reading the sticky threads in the User Projects Forum!)

This topic has been moved to Design Concepts. Please read the sticky threads! [iurl]http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=13397.0[/iurl]

Mine didn't... You mean like this one: http://ucables.com/ref/AOYUE-936A-SOLDERING-R91723 ? Mine doesn't look like that, it is *exactly* the same as the hakko image I posted above, only with a different logo printed on it. Edit: oh and the connector is metal not plastic, and the silicone grip on the pen is clear, not black) Edit: if you look at the aoyue page, mine is like the 950, but with a normal pen, not tweezers: http://www.aoyue.com/en/Product.asp?BigClassName=THROUGH-HOLE%20SOLDERING I get the feeling, through the name changes, case changes, distribution changes, etc, that hakko have somehow had aoyue change their devices.... (I'm guessing a legal threat?)

I agree with frailn... The confusion here, is because the pins are numbered differently - but they are physically in the same location :)

Are you using all the standard parts including the bypass capacitors? Do you have short neat cabling from core to DOUTs? They are 74HC chips, not HCT?

Girls, punk, drugs... Scarlet begonias. RIP Brad.

t's all about the mounting. The fibreglass boards are actually quite strong, provided that you give them enough support. Just use lots of bolt+standoffs on the breadboard, and you'll be able to whack them all day long without concern. Mind you, they aren't velocity sensitive, and hitting buttons heavily is bad for your fingers... probably worth breaking the bad habit of pushing them so hard. (I have that problem with my keyboard, as do most people)

Did I st-st-stutter? </samuel l jackson> ;) I'm guessing you must be in the information overload phase of midiboxing... hang in there, it gets easier!

Clearly I'm thinkin' of the wrong switch :D

Seconded - if you can afford to go non-clone, it's a good idea.... if... ;)

Sweet! Nice find on those cases!! I dig that fader font too, please commit it :D

Sounds like words of wisdom to me! Maybe this thread will help: Re: MB-6582 ate my soldering iron... or ...What Soldering Iron should I get All of the above ;) I use a springloaded solder sucker and wick personally, but IMO you can never have enough tools :D

Yeh mine's an aoyue 936A. I noticed a while ago, that they've since been re-named, so they have a 936, and then <some other name> which is the 936A, but with a less-hakko-ish name for international distribution. My guess is that hakko were not comfortable with it being so close ;) Check out their website to get that name, it might give you a few more options. With stuff like this, at least with the 'el-cheapo' types, I try to avoid digital stuff like the kada 936D - just seems to me to be more susceptible to breakdown/harder to fix in that situation. The clone on the headfi site is actually a clone, as opposed to what is almost surely a re-badged hakko from the same factory (the aoyue 936A) - you'll notice small differences in the casing and handle etc. The ebay one you saw is still from the same factory but I guess probably not so nice as the (suspected) hakko rebadge. I'm not sure if the genuine hakko parts will go in that one?

Welcome aboard niietzshe :) Having custom PCBs made is definitely possible, although for something so small and simple, I would probably use protoboard for the job. But it's definitely possible, and very easy to use from the software side.

Try the wiki?

Cool :) Yeh sometimes the keyboard MIDI does not handle sysex well. Be sure to avoid any devices on our wiki 'blacklist' when you buy a new one!