pay_c

*bowing down* myzehl! Have fun! Congrats TK, you deserved it! ;D

No, not at all. The main quality points that influence it are the PSU (!! Use TK´s solution) and the grounding (best u use a aluminium case which is completely grounded - and don´t make sandwiches (meaning two or more PCBs over each other). The only thing what can happen you at the beginning is that you have to experiment a little with the etching (up to now about 20 - 10 % of my boards were rubbish - all other were good and work up to now). Greetz!

Thanks again and again :D 3 way switch: Two reasons: First, so that I still can access the internal memory (which isn't to neccesary but what the heck...) and second (more important): I realized that sometimes (if you switch to fast from one bankstick to the other and back) the switched BS is not recognized correctly and is formatted. To prevent this I have no BS in the middle, so that I first switch to the middle, wait a sec and then switch to the other BS. The case is made out of plastic. DO NOT DO THIS with the SID. There is no grounding! I would never do this again with audio stuff (me stupid!!). Anyhow plastic is the easiest material to use for casings (drilling is nothing, and you can glue it easily). Anyhow, from now on all my cases will be aluminium again. Just the better stuff (tried plastic and wood (MB64) before...) Greetz!! ;D

Hey TK, some question about the functionality. I want the knobs near to the stuff they change so: - whats the mute muting? Tracks/Layers or Steps? - same with the solo... - the "all" the same - all tracks/steps/layers? - whats the fast doing? ... ... :-/ to be exact I would just need some small info about all those buttons... :-X :P Cause I'm about to order the frontplate (I'll try Schaeffer the first time now!) and just don't want to do anything wrong on there... PS: 2 HE! (I made it indeed...)

LEDs: Die Rechnung stimmt scho. Wird ne ziemlich heiße Sache. ;D ABER: Sobald du die LEDs z.B. multiplexed , bist du aus dem Schneider (Bspl: 64 LEDs auf 8x8 multiplexed - auch wenn alle 64 an sind - es sind immer nur 8 unter Spannung - also 8 x 20 mA statt 64 x 20 mA) PICs: Jau, auf microchip.com gibts die als Samples. Im Forum gibts genügend Threads drüber, einfach mal danach suchen ("Samples" "Microchip" oder sowatt) Gruß :)

Errrrrrr.... .... .... errrrrr.... Aren´t you already on some kinda like that? The AIN is nothing else than that. It converts 0-5V voltage to a 0-127 Midi Signal. For other voltages check this link: http://www.ucapps.de/midibox_ext.html (the 3 LFO extension) Greetz! :)

Thnx! I got them from someone on this forum. I even don´t know from who anymore. It´s been a while since I got them. Sorry. :P

Thnx! I got them from someone on this forum. I even don´t know from who anymore. It´s been a while since I got them. Sorry. :P

Oh my oh my oh my oh my oh my oh my ....... ..... :o Looks f+++ing cewl! A real *wannalaymyhandonthere*! Can´t wait for building my own (just ordered the encoders). Much respect from my side, TK!!!

Cool, thnx TK! Really curious if that bugfix will solve my problem, too. (Although I´m still confused that I´m the only one who had it up to now). *downloading* :D

Lil' question about the Encs again: What Encs do you recommend TK? Those schuricht.de ones? If I know that I'll also start building the CS within the next time (got sooo much ideas to bring in there...). :)

Hah! Now that's even better! Just found out (better said he found out and told me): Jack - me (Erlangen - Nuernberg): 20 kms (!!! !!! !!!) We'll meet certainly the next time! Cool!! ;D

There is a sample mp3 on the page with both filters. There you can hear the difference very clearly. The 8580 filter (with the new software) is much more broader and just sounds fatter (better!!!). Another difference is that the 6581 is a little more vintage like. That means the tones are not soooooo exact as in the 8580 (which can be very cool indeed!). Its also getting hotter (the IC!) than the 8580 because of the temperature stabilizing of the VCOs. The ones like the 6581 better, the others the 8580. I do like the 8580 much more (tried both versions). If you can't make up your mind just use 2x 6581 and 2x 8580. Greetz! /modify: Just found the link with the new software: http://www.midibox.org/midibox_sid/mbsid_v1_5_filter.mp3

Just try to emulate a screaming 8580 filter in distortion! Good luck! *keep it original* ;D

Some "wanna touch it" pieces you got there! I´m looking forward to see them in action (with that display mentioned).

Respekt & Glückwunsch! ;D Das Rauschen ist ja scho um Längen besser! Die Filterfrequenz ist zwar noch hart drunten - aber kommt ein wenig Studiodelay mäsig (andere brauchen da DSPs für - du machst es halt einfach so!) - von daher für Delay cool. Wann kommt die Veröffentlichung der Schaltung usw? Aufs Portal?

If you made the PCBs by yourself even the smallest (thinnest) copper film can bring up some short. If you find the short you can use a scalpell or similar to go through the copper lines (you dont have to press to much). With that way, all thin and small stuff is away. Good luck!!! :)

Einfach mal UCapps durchgucken und die entsprechenden Sachen auf dein Prob herunterbrechen (z.B. MB64). MIOS Programmierung ist auch nicht das Prob. Es gibt genug Beispiele & fertige Setups auf der Page. Gruss pay.c

Also wenn du hier nicht richtig bist, weiss ich auch nicht mehr: http://www.midibox.org/cgi-bin/yabb/YaBB.cgi?board=mios_toy;action=display;num=1062284610 Viel Spass! Viel zu tun haben wirst du mit der Facharbeit jetzt nicht mehr. :D

Nope, didn't mean that. I meant the lighting like in the 3310. The LEDs are appr. 2 mm under the LCD and lighting into a plastic round whatever-thing (like a small, long prisma). This makes the lighting very smooth, without any "hot spots" (very light areas & dark areas). Perhaps TK can make a sample lighting like I mean it and you know whats up. (Its so dammit ... hard to explain what I mean... :P ) TK? ;D

Also den LCD empfehle ich auf jeden Fall. Man kann den ja dann spaeter wieder abstoepseln und fuer andere Projekte verwenden (wenn alles laeuft und alles eingestellt ist). Ohne LCD musst du halt viel im MIDI Format lesen koennen (auch Sysex und sonst was). Ist a weng umstaendlich. Mit einem LCD hast du da eine direktere Infoquelle.

From the same guy Benni got his display: A 2x40 LCD with blue(!) backlighting - great price: DM4020 (TDK-T34V): 2,34 ms (!!)

I'm not sure about that, but: Put that Recitifer in there! That prob can come from the fact, that on the core the recitifer is still there (and so getting the gnd up by 0,7 V) and on the SID it isn't. There was a problem like that before. And: Do use MIOS 1.5b. Always use the latest MIOS & app version (working one) if possible or if any probs are there. Greets

LOL ;D Yeah, nearly any button is absolutely OK for MIOS. Those Specs don't make up to much. Greetz.

;D ;D Looks nice TK! I wouldn't have got that baby running within this year! ;) How long did it take for you? Quarter hour? btw: I already told TK about this little idea: You can use the plastic back (where the LCD was in) for very easy & good backlighting (just put 2-4 LEDs right under the LCD - like it was in your phone). This also means: DOUT can be used!!! Variable backlighting!! If you use 2 LEDs for backlighting u should be able to make up 4 different colors! *IMAGINE!!!* Hoooooray!