nebula

sorry

I just looked at the way the jack is wired on a C64 main board. The 2 pins are connected together - so no matter what, bridging those 2 pins should never cause a problem, and will probably ensure compatibility with C64 power supplies worldwide.

Interesting. ... so you are relying on the copper layer to centre the drill a little bit. What is the exact size of the hole? What size of drill bit are you using? Are you using PCB with thick copper, or does that matter?

So ... I've sent my spreadsheet column to Ganchan. Thanks! I have a question: I have an old, dead Juno-106 which is a parts machine. Should I use the BA662 from that? I think it should work, since the only problem with this Juno was some dead voices.

Needs a denoiser / debouncer Suddenly that PIC is looking like a more practical alternative ... I could use TK's encoder-handling code and get the added benefit that it senses how fast it's being turned. BTW That firmware update project is finally seeing the light of day ... if you haven't recently visited the site I linked above, check it out! (FYI the name has not been very specific about my request to add an encoder for editing values)

Come here and say that, little funny man!

Nice stuff. Makes really nice working music! By 808 do you mean MB-808? It sounds great!

To mark where the standoffs should go on the back of the panel, I first made a tiny mark with graphite pencil. Then, using a key, scratched a little "X" where each graphite dot was, and wiped down the entire back of the panel with a little alcohol. No sanding, no dremel. I applied JB-weld to each "X" and then clamped the PCB and the panel together for over 24 hours. I pulled them apart, and ... Nothing came off. In fact it seems extremely strong, despite the fact that there are definitely a few standoffs that I should have applied more adhesive to. Only one standoff didn't stick, and that is because ... somehow I missed it. I didn't put any JB-Weld there. I'm not going to fret though ... I have since completely populated the control surface PCB (except LEDs). Next time the PCB and the panel meet, I will glue down the last standoff. My standoffs are aluminum, and my corner screws (bolts) are stainless steel.

Removing the detents from the Soundwell encoders is pretty easy, but in the process I also found it easy to stab my hand with a tiny screwdriver about 6 times. It takes maybe a little less than five minutes per encoder. The detent can easily be flattened with needlenose pliers. Make make sure you flatten the entire raised part or else you'll still feel a little resistance.

I can attest that that stuff is incredibly strong. I used something very similar to fix a broken headlight assembly a few years ago and it held up beautifully. Did you actually use it to attach screws / standoffs to a panel in the same way as for MB-6582?

I think you and I need to stop saying this to each other. I respect your opinion and I think we know each other's intentions :) Yeah, I totally got that ... but given how small the heads are on these little bolts, I don't think it's going to make a difference. I'll send pics Interesting ... do you start with a mouth full of acetone? Yeah, my first attempt was far more ghetto ... I had two C-clamps (funny how you call them G-clamps, go figger). One was about 1 inch, the other about 6 inches. I then started canvassing people in other areas of my work, and ended up with a clip from a set of jumper cables, a pair of Vise-grips, and an adapted pair of vise-grips that a welder would use. I couldn't rest the panel flat, and it was tricky even to loosen to adjust the alignment. Identical clamps? OK , maybe not absolutely essential ... but at least use good clamps. Here, put on these clamps while I hold these together. Just stuff like that. I probably shoulda done this, but ... :D Yep ... I already came up against that once. The sideways play on my tact switches (I'm using "e-switch" switches) kinda threw me because it just ended up looking taller than the other buttons. Once the switches are snapped down, though, they provide a valuable visual cue if you look into the space between the panel and the control surface PCB. If they are not straight, i.e. rubbing on the panel, they will be visibly not parallel with the spacers. I can't wait to get home and move on to phase 2! In the meantime, I have got all the resistors on my base board. Serial # 52: you're about to be born! (btw how many are completed so far?)

Status update: I have finished the first phase of the control surface: JB-welding the 4 corner screws to the panel. Unfortunately I couldn't get actual pan-head screws so instead I used M3 hex bolts in stainless steel. As for the spacers, I wanted them in brass, but Digi-Key was out of stock. I ended up buying aluminum. I forgot to clean the back of the panel before I attached the four corner screws with JB-Weld. The package recommends using a solvent, such as acetone, but I got so excited I totally gapped on it. I used flat toothpicks to mix and apply the JB-Weld. They worked very well. At this point, I have two pieces of advice: (1) ensure you have at least four decent clamps that are IDENTICAL. I tried this about 10 different ways ealier today, at work, where I was only able to scrounge up 4 clamps all of different sizes and principles. I took it home where I had four nice "Fuller" clamps that cost me all of a buck each, which worked great. (2) borrow an extra set of hands from a competent individual. My roommate, Adam, was a godsend. This operation is definitely possible with just one person, but far easier with two. Use a little wrench or needlenose pliers to tighten the corner screws against the panel by adjusting the nut between the panel and the PCB. Hold the screw with your fingers or needlenose pliers so it doesn't turn while it's trying to bond with the wet adhesive. Once you've snugged it up (it doesn't have to be really tight), finger-tighten the other washer (on your side of the PCB) which will prevent any movement. I truly believe that the 4 corner screws will prove to be much more difficult than the spacers. I also think that once the spacers are attached, I will probably endure one more 24-hour curing period beyond the "control surface construction guide", in which I bulk up on JB-Weld wherever it appears to be lacking.

Ouch right back atcha. I didn't notice the price is in GBP, not USD. My bad

Correct. I got the impression you wanted a standalone box. There are plenty of MIDI knob boxes on the market, and using Logic you can get them to do almost anything. MIDIbox is a whole different level of geekdom. People here are doing amazing stuff, but not without spending a lot of time, effort and money. Patience, young jedi. I have seen many PG-300's and 1000's go for dirt cheap. Stick with it ... I find that if several get listed within a short period, then as they end supply tends to exceed demand, driving the price down. Notice I did not say MPG-80, PG-200 or PG-800, which are always simply unreasonable. I'm glad I got my PG-800 while programmers were cheap, but since PG-200's are through the roof, I have decided that I will instead eventually get the MIDI mod for my JX-3P and control it with a custom MIDIbox. FWIW I also plan to build a custom front panel for my newly acquired Sequential Six-Trak. BTW: I love my classic Roland polys too. I have a JP-6, JX-8P, JX-3P, and Juno-106. You and I could almost be brothers. :)

Yes Ganchan thanks very much for that comprehensive list.

The whole point of the optocoupler in the MIDI spec is to prevent ground loops. You could probably bypass it in most circumstances, but you theoretically risk blowing up your PIC (or the MIDI OUT of the sending unit). I HAVE NEVER TRIED THIS, AND I DOUBT I EVER WILL. If you are in North America, phone Digi-Key (1-800-DIGI-KEY) and tell them you need a 6N138QT-ND. Including shipping and handling, it will cost you about the same amount as a new PIC, but you will have an opto in your hands tomorrow morning at 9:30.

:( I've decided I won't be getting a kit. I have ordered almost every part from Digi-Key, and it should come in today. I figured I might as well, since I was also ordering OPL3 parts, AOUT_NG parts, plus parts for some MFOS projects. As of now, I'm only after PICs, 6.3 mm jacks, a fan, and rear-panel pots.

Thanks everyone who messaged me. Invoices have now been sent, and that about takes care of it. I don't know the exact number I have left, but I don't think they're for sale. Wilba may still have a few.

Is this "chipforbrains" item old news? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=290209032445

The JD-800 has a zillion sliders. Generally it's much easier to do rotary knobs than sliders on a DIY panel. AFAIK a stock MB64 will not send variable sysex messages in response to a knob value change without custom programming. MKS-80 ... well given the market value of the MPG-80, I'm surprised nobody has built a MIDIbox version yet. MKS-50 ... PG-300 is already a steal on eBay, and doing a MIDIbox version may be impractical. Retrofitting MIDI lighting controllers as synth programmers ... consider the "MIDI Processor / Filter" project, which is really just a CORE module with some code examples.

The results are in! First, I didn't give the JB-weld a full 24 hours to cure (maybe about 22 hours, and it was thick, so I think it could have done with a bit longer). Second, somebody managed to upset the experiment and caused a couple of my standoffs to fall on their side, and end up not as well-immersed in the JB Weld as they should have been. Finally, I didn't use any clamps. The JB Weld stuck ridiculously well in all circumstances. I would have to say that it sticks better to the brass spacers than the aluminum spacers. It took serious leverage to get any of the joints to break. If the JB-welded joints stick to the panel as well as they did to my scrap aluminum (both in the cleaned spot and the dirty spot), I have no concerns about using JB-Weld to hold the front panel and its PCB in place.

Thanks Boris and all. I'll be sending out invoices later today. If you could, please edit your post so that my email address does not appear publicly (spam bots being what they are nowadays) Best regards, Steve (nebula)

Well it also gave me a chance to practice with the stuff before I slap it on my panel. I see now that it stiffens up quite a bit about 30 seconds after you mix it. Enough that a cable tie is not rigid enough to be an effective applicator (I think a small knife would be the best tool to apply it). ...and I didn't order my hardware yet. I had a music project suddenly sprung on me. Grrrrr ...

MUSIQUE ... NON STOP

No worries mate ... I just want to see them find good homes. Maybe if somebody's buying SID or OPL3 chips or Vegemite or whatever from you, they would be better off to get you to throw an LCD in at the same time!