nILS

I usually just use a pair of needle-nose pliers and get rid of the little nose on the pot, by simply breaking it off. I just fasten the nuts decently and never had a problem with the pots coming loose. If that should ever happen - a drop of [insert favorite glue here] into the nut before tightening will do wonders. Also I don't use any of the fancy washer that come with it, but only one, on the panel side below the nut.

I like the casework - seems to follow the same principles of the PAIA Fatman - wood cheeks are always nice ;)

Good to hear from you, cimo! Maybe we'll need to introduce sth like a mini-midibox-twitter thingie, where you can quickly post what you're up to :-)

Will work.

Nope. All the parts except for the gm5 chip are very common though, so it won't be a problem to source them.

...and may be willing to share some of it ;)

I am aware of that I just don't really really see the benefit of using a SID in a modular synth, but maybe that's just me ;)

Unless you do it, Wilba is ;)

Resultion: not an issue as the SID itself is an 8bit device. Speed: CAN bus. Again, this is doable, but I personally don't see the huge benefit in having a digitally controlled sound generator being controlled by something digital being controlled by something analog.

Easiest thing I can think of would be using a second core (+ some surrounding circuitry) to make a CV->MIDI converter and fire that at an mbSID. I do not really see the advantage of doing that though ;)

victimless crime

True, but ?

I feel the need of writing that everything I hear "transformer": Careful with mains voltage! 9V kinda tickles, 110/220V hurts. Bad. Do that only if you really know what you're doing and make sure to include fuses in the right spots.

Oookay then. Good luck to you!

The "root form" of starwiring means bringing each pot's ground to one common point. Obviously that's gonna be wire hell if you have a lot of pots ;) Hence most people go with this:

(That's a yes) Looking good, more pictures, pwease?

As I already said in the chat - welcome aboard! ;D

Note to builders: There's an error on the silkscreen, please check the doco in the wiki. The EEPROM is facing the wrong way on the silkscreen. If you are using the EEPROM make sure that the notch/pin1 face IC5.

And this is why you never trust product photos on the net, mmkay! Pretty! And "Thanks!" for not using blue LEDs and thereby not ruining this beautiful box! ;D

Cause 9V (from the 7809) + 5V is 14V.

Oui, c'est possible. (That's all my french is good for). Ignore the AOUT config, and just don't attach an AOUT module.

One is optimized for low noise and one isn't ;) I'd go with the optimized one, even if that means buying some extra parts and a small piece of vero board.

The short click is normal - that's the time it takes to charge the capacitors. To be on the safe side, check the voltages again w/o any ICs in it - if they're not ok, turn off the box immediately.

From the looks of the schem: (If you lower the mux rate) you can pretty much add as many 4051s as you have pins on the PIC (or help yourself out with some DOUTs for the input selection). More than 64 means you'll have to mux the muxed lines once more (chain the 4051s).

Connecting the 9V battery to J1 will not work. The rectifier produces a voltage drop and the 7809/7812 will not produce the desired voltage. The input on J1 needs to be ~3-5V above the desired voltage.