nILS

I'd start with one of the 6582As as they are pretty much guaranteed to work, which may be a huge benefit in potential troubleshooting. Also it seems rather likely that you'll build a stereo setup at some point, so that's another reason to start with the 6582A which will go nicely along with it's sibling in a stereo setup :-) You cannot simply replace the 6582A with a 6581. The 6582A is basically an 8580 and needs a) a different voltage to run and b) different filter caps. Obviously it's not a huge problem to replace them though ;)

Some general hints that can be time and money savers: * when you lay out the CS (which you prolly do first) always use a grid (preferrably 100mil as that's what you'd have on veroboard [make sure to align the pins of the components]) , that'll make it soo much easier to not mess up spacing/positioning between the panel and the CS pcb(s) * when you think you like the layout, print it out 1:1, put it in front of yourself, put the knobs and buttons on it (if you got em already) and pretend to work with it - this helps a lot to make sure the spacing and positioning is good * do show some layouts, maybe someone has a good idea or sees sth that you overlooked - happens to me all the time

If you really get stuck, just ask again! I hear there's people around here who kinda know this stuff ;)

IM(not so)HO building a single core and single sid without any control surface (an LCD is a good idea though) to get started is certainly a good thing. It's less to mess up, less money you shred if you decide to quit halfway through and still offers 80% of the satisfaction of a "big" setup.

I suggest you do that (go to ucapps.de an read read read) before asking the same questions over and over ;)

Stacky, you seem to be asking for circuit diagrams in lots of threads - how about you make a new thread and tell us what you wanna do and we'll see what you need to get there?

Welcome aboard pingosimon! :D There's not really a right/wrong answer to that one ;) Depending on what style of music you play live 2 SIDs can be definitely enough - for instance if you play solo leads and only need a monophonic stereo synth OR are cool with 2 voices in a mono setup. Altough it's questionable if you ever need stereo at a live gig. The "phatness" factor of two SIDs is pretty high ;) The best thing to do, would be to try it out. Start with a simple one core + one SID module setup, get that up and running and play around a little bit. Add a second SID module and play around with the stereo setup (in a stereo setup you'd want matched SIDs in your case probably the two 6582As). After you've got that up and running - there's more to try, which you'll probably just have to do. It's lotsa fun after all!

lol, Wilba. It's actually not been shopped but Picture Publisher'd. I cropped and resized the pics and put captions on 'em :-)

You seem to be using a bit too much solder and kinda drip it on like candle-wax. Try not to touch the solder with your iron but the component, and then let the heat from the component melt the solder. Other than that it looks good!

Any (with some exceptions see blacklist) MIDI device will work no matter if it's usb, internal, ...

If it's just a "till I get the gm5 done" solution, check the blacklist and get the cheapest interface that's not on it - obviously it's not guaranteed that it'll work, but even if it doesn't you won't waste lots of money on something you might only use for a couple of weeks.

It is :-) I am evaluating the cheapest options at the moment. I'll keep you guys posted.

Sorry for the OT but that drum beat totally reminded me of this. Ah the good old times... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E7JY5ekaiPw&feature=related

I think kris referred to going the "ask roland" route ;)

Hmm, I just now notice it doesn't say that they'll have to pass the test before you ship them. Maybe you wanna rethink your testing technique and refund the not-fully working ones.

Voltage should always be within 7-10V, no exception, this is what the voltage regulator needs to produce nice and clean 5V. The voltage specified is an is value, which doesn't change. Current (amperage) is a can value, it tells you how much current the PSU can supply. More is better, and you can pretty much not have a PSU that can supplies too much. The box will only draw as much current as it needs.

Shortcut? Didn't we measure the resistances between +12V-GND, -12V-GND and +12V--12V in the chat last night and came up with values >5k for every one? Did that change?

With the voltage switched turned off you shouldn't read any voltage. If you have no ICs stuffed it may take quite a while for the voltage to drop to 0V though as nothing is really pulling any current and the capacitors may take a bit to discharge.

That's normal: AUAIMBCTG -> http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp/auaimbctg.pdf As for the Frame Error, this has happened before: http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,7902.0.html http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,7699.0.html http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,9463.0.html Is you MIDI interface blacklisted? http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=midi_interface_blacklist

In case you don't find anyone in the UK, I know a bunch of people in Germany ;) Feel free to PM me if you can't find any locals.

Yes, it's normal. Especially different revisions and even SIDs from the same batch can sound different. Putting a resistor to ground parallel to the signal path will lower the volume of the channel that's too loud. @TK, Wilba: can you please split this and the last post off? @TK: Thanks, that was fast :-)

I do. Invoices will be sent out to the people on the waiting list, that already sent in their details. If you haven't, check you PMs ;)

Nice work, Lorcan! Thanks for sharing!

Some of the profit would surely go to Peter North as well, no? ;)

Alan Greenspan