nILS

JB Weld or any other 2 component glue will work nicely, super glue has a tendency to be very stiff and break easily.

Wie das mit XP geht? Problemlos. ;) Hab das schon an etwa 5 XP Rechnern gemacht und nie Probleme gehabt. Allerdings nie mit P18, sondern mit ICProg und WinPicPgm.

Eagle 5 is a workaround. Eagle 4 FTW.

Voltage should _always_ be in 7-10V range. The current your PSU will need to supply will rise with parts count, so more Amps is better.

ALL YOUR OPL3 ARE BELONG TO WILBA!

Like this: http://ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_core_v3.pdf

My suggestion on burners: ebay.com -> "pic burner" -> pay $5 and get a nicely working one with zif socket.

20k will work nicely, I don' know about the 100k though - just go ahead and try it ;)

Do you mean you don't get _anything_ on the 12V rail every other time? If so, check the switch and the wiring and soldering on your PSU. Maybe take some pictures and post them in this thread, so we can have a look!

Hehe seems I overread the "enough", which kinda made it sorta, um, odd ;) Nevermind the stupid germans, they just can't read.

"Pretty sturdy" == indestructable in this case ;)

What I would do is to power the gm5 module off the USB power and just use wires where you'd usually have the midi cables.

We once made something relatively similar with piezos and the small pads from a used "hantelbank" that we got off a blowout sale of a local sports supplier. sth like this: t Basically we made diy pads like the edrum people with a cushion in front of them ;-) I just asked the guy and it still works. He's using it as play controls for his studio (after he broke a whole bunch of controllers he wanted something sturdy).

Those are nice as well - hole size doesn't matter as much as the socket covers a good bit of it.

Uh? Looking good! ;D

Hi lead bromide, welcome aboard! ;) Shift register don't usually get warm at all. So either there's a problem with the wiring/soldering or your 74HC595 are faulty.

I can't really tell what the SNR of the box is, cause it's below my systems natural SNR ;) Flexi, Wilba?

Hehe, yes. And the filter cap positions match the filter caps on the mb6582 and the filter switcher pcb ;)

The panels were made by http://www.ponoko.com/. The PCBs were the regular "special" pricing deal from http://www.goldphoenixpcb.biz/

Flexinoodle and I recently finished our collab: the fnpSID. It's a stereo mbSID v2 with added gm5 support for easy PC<->SID connection. The pcb is basically comprised of a core module, a gm5 module and two sid modules and 5 banksticks. It runs off a single 9V-12V AC/DC wallwart. Since the gm5 gives us 5 IO ports, you can hook upto 4 other MIDI devices up to it. It has the option of linking together multiple of the fnpSID PCBs to allow for either multiple stereo synths each as their own MIDI port, or linking the PCBs via CANbus. Up to 2 of the PCBs can be fit into a single case, turning it into either a 2x stereo SID or a Quad SID setup ;) To keep it as simple as possible the pcb does not have headers for anything else than needed - producing SID sweetness. In the beginning we were a bit worried about the SNR with the usb and single supply PSU, and I went a bit overboard with bypass caps. But the result speaks for itself: Wilba: f*ck man that snr is sick nILS: "puking baby"-sick or "phat maaaan!"-sick? Wilba: like pretty f*cking good Wilba: is like my mb6582 without the cs :) Working on this little beast was a lot of fun and Flexi and I really like the results ;) We would like to thank TK for this incredibly nice project, Wilba for being a third pair of eyes with major pcb OCD and building one of the 3 prototypes and everyone else who made this little toy possible! Okay, I'll shut up now, here's some pics: A couple of development pics can be found on my flickr page: http://www.flickr.com/photos/34559421@N02/sets/72157613040599649/ edit: Oh, if this doesn't qualify as MBOTW worthy feel free to move it to a more appropriate location.

This topic has been moved to MIDIbox Documentation Project. [iurl]http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=13411.0[/iurl]

Sidenote: The bypass caps are ~100nF not 100uF

In case other people run a into similar: 6V bad. 7-10V recommended ;)

For the pads you might wanna look into piezos as used in electronic drums (see edrum.info for ideas). Problems you might encounter: Where to put the indicators so they don't get smashed/hurt the person training ;)

Erm, yep. Cause you haven't gotten one yet. No invoice was ever sent to you. That's why you don't have one.