Wilba

OK take a break :wink: post again when you need some help. I'm pretty sure that 12V DC 500mA should be enough when the backlight is at minimum. Try taking out the SIDs. IF you can get everything working nicely without the SIDs then it's most likely a current load issue (or power supply issue).... i.e. the PIC is doing stupid things because it's not getting stable 5V.

I can almost guarantee these are all switchmode not transformer. There's no way you can get 12V DC 2.5A out of a plugpack that small. You'll need to hunt around some more, or hope some of the builders local to you can help.

Maybe LCD brightness pot is too high. Are you using the correct settings for JBL and JR4 and brightness? Try setting brightness pot to minimum.

As per other post, since you're using AC supply, problems with the 2200uF cap and bridge rectifier might cause voltage instability. If you can, see if a known good 12V DC supply (pref. regulated) makes it work.... then you'll know it's related to AC->DC section of the PCB.

nicely done. 12V DC 300mA isn't enough. SIDs alone will draw 100mA each, even a miserly 100mA (of 250mA max) to the backlight and you're over budget :wink:

Datasheet shows two backlight options, yellow-green (LED array, 210 mA) and white (edge-lit, 40 mA). This red backlight LCD has a LED array, so it can take 210 mA and should be treated as "high-power" with respect to the build guide instructions. Take care to set the brightness pot at half-way (12 o'clock) to avoid oversupplying the backlight, since with JBL set to "12V" and a shunt in JR4, actual supply will vary when using unregulated power supplies.

The shorts between C5 and C6 probably weren't the problem... they are already connected in parallel. Most likely the rectifier was the problem, and why shunts in JBP would make things work, and a 9V AC wasn't working, as without a rectifier, you don't turn AC into DC. If you blew your 12V supply, it wasn't because it was unregulated. Regulated just means there's a voltage regulator inside it. Well, I suppose with a regulated supply, a short circuit will cause oversupply of current and the regulator will shut down. With an unregulated supply, it probably just melts the transformer wires. I don't know, I'm just guessing. Your voltages look OK now... that 9V AC will work for now, but might have trouble later when you're supplying SIDs, they'll each draw 100mA max. on the 5V supply, plus 40mA max. on the 9V supply. But you said it's 1A so it should work. 13.3V DC at no load is pretty decent, just be aware the voltage might drop. So... I'm assuming you mean you get an upload request but it has a few extra F0 to start. I guess that means it's possible there's a voltage stability issue... it's a bit slow to get stable 5V (or just a bit noisy), so the PIC resets a few times on bootup. Replacing C5 (the big blue 2200uF cap) might be a good start. I'll post you a replacement if you can't get one yourself or can't wait :wink: just let me know.

Shunts in JBP bypass the bridge rectifier. If you are using AC power supply, then you need the bridge rectifer. If you are usingDC power supply that is tip positive, then you can use JBP shunts, however it should STILL work without JBP shunts. You should always use TWO or ZERO shunts in JBP. Did you install the bridge rectifier correctly? The flat side should match the outline on the PCB. The "+" should be at the bottom left corner, closest to the big blue capacitor. Perhaps there is a bad solder joint with the bridge rectifier pins. Maybe it only works with the JBP bypass because the bridge rectifier isn't connected properly.

OK I have a theory... If the "6581" pins of JP are shorted together, then when the shunt is in "6581" position, it's redundant and stuff works. Then when the shunt is in "6582" position, it's now shorting between the input power (eg. 12ish V) and the 9V supply. Well, actually this is shorting between the input and output of the 7809 voltage regulator. Bad. I would not be surprised if that causes weird stuff to happen. Check if the "6581" pins of JP are connected. You probably might have caught this when I said "Do voltage tests with NO shunt in JP or JBP" if you extended this to testing the voltages at the SID modules. With no shunt in JP, there should not be any 12V or 9V power supplied to the SID modules (i.e. top right corner pin of the SID socket).

Do you mean spray painted the engravings?

Your 9V AC tests sort of show that it's not strong enough to supply 10.5V after it's rectified by the bridge rectifier, and with less than that going into the 7809 voltage regulator, you don't get 9V DC, which means you also don't get 5V DC. The 12V DC supply is better. At least with jumper in 6581 mode, that looks OK. The big blue cap is used to smooth AC into DC. If you supply with 12V DC, it's not that critical and is probably not the cause of your problem. Just to confirm, when you say "--with jumpers in 6581 mode" and "-- with jumpers in 6582 i get nothing" do you mean you set both JBP and JP headers, or only JP? Don't use JBP unless you are using a regulated DC tip-positive power supply. Still, I can assume you've set JP to "6582" and left JBP open... that should work just as well as JP set to "6581" i.e. you should still be getting 9V and 5V. So perhaps there's some kind of short. But it really doesn't make sense at all to me... all JP does is connect the SIDs and the audio buffers to either the 9V supply or the 12V (input) supply. If there was a short to ground on the middle (common) pin of JP, then it would also be shorting when the jumper is set to "6581", shorting your input supply and you wouldn't be getting 9V and 5V output. Hmm... Stick with the 12V DC supply. Do voltage tests with NO shunt in JP or JBP. Test voltages. Repeat with JP set to "6582", no shunt in JBP. Post results. I'll scratch my beard some more. I might have to grow back my beard, which will take a while, sorry. :whistle:

To start with, 4.15V is too low.... the 5V regulator should be outputting much closer to 5V, at least 4.9V Check the voltage going into the 7805, that would be the pin not labelled with a 5V or 0V (ground) label. What is the 9V voltage like? I don't know what you mean by "recognized by the software". Do you mean MIOS Studio 2 is not detecting an attached MIDIbox? I'd say fix your voltage issue first, in case it is low voltage causing the MIDI to not work.

But what does it show now when it boots up? Do you see the "MIOS V1.9g"? Try uploading MIOS V1.9g using MIOS Studio 2, make sure there are no errors. Get it back to the "READY." screen if you can. It could be that it worked before, you had a good connection between base PCB and LCD, but after detaching/attaching the control surface PCB, it's jiggled a "poor" solder joint and made it "bad". Check there aren't any bad connections there, or shorts between pins.

Cool! That will get you going until your replacement gets there, maybe before next weekend if you're lucky.

I apologize for the missing resistor network, I don't know how that could happen, as I definitely count four per kit, and I'm pretty good at counting to four, been doing it for three decades now. :tongue: I will send you a replacement today, but if you can't wait (or want a temporary fix), you can use five 10K resistors... solder them vertically in the pads that DON'T have the white dot next to it. Then solder a wire vertically in the pad that has the dot next to it. Bend that wire and solder it to the other ends of the resistors, so all the resistors are connected to the "common" pad (with the white dot). I've done this before with home-made DIN modules, it's a bit ugly but works. If you don't have 10K resistors, then anything between 1K and 50K will work just as well, they don't have to be all the same value either. If this is a temporary fix (i.e. you do want to replace it with the right part, right?) maybe leave some room so you can cut the resistors off near the PCB and remove the leads individually.

The LEDs appear to be working... they're showing the pitch of all six oscillators (low pitch in the centre, high pitch to the edges). LCD obviously is not. Did it show the "MIOS V1.9g" bootscreen before you uploaded the setup_sammich_sid.hex? Does it show the "MIOS V1.9g" bootscreen now? If the answer to both questions is no, then it's probably some bad soldering/connections to the LCD... it could be at the LCD end or the socket on the PCB.

Thanks for the bug report. Changed to "Thus, leaving this header open will enable R4A and reduce the current, a shunt in this header will disable R4A and the current will be higher."

The part number for the radial 100nF capacitor is Mouser 80-C410C104K5R (if you're going to get it from Mouser, you might as well get the same as the rest!). Otherwise, I could just send you one in an envelope for free.

It's clearly explained in the section 8. Installing SIDs of the build guide.

I agree :thumbsup: If it isn't mentioned in the build guide, ignore it. FWIW the pads right of U6 are unused DIN inputs, not in the switch matrix. Everything else is either a via (not a pad, vias connect tracks between the layers) or it's a documented header (which you probably don't need).

:D 7809 and 7805 are standard parts, with same specs made by many manufacturers. They are unlikely to be the problem. Perhaps while desoldering, you broke a trace or pad. Try checking connectivity to other parts. All the traces connecting the voltage regulators (and the two power diodes) are on the top layer and should be easy to follow.

sollten Sie ließ den Hund zu essen den Käse, ein kleines Stück wird nicht für den Hund schlecht

I fixed fussylizard's post, attachment got lost during forum upgrade.

I heard some time ago that it's not a Good Thing to have voltage regulators with open inputs and outputs connected to voltages i.e. the voltage it's supposed to output... which would be the scenario if you switched from PSU Option A and B... option A uses the 9V DC coming from the C64 PSU and it would be connected to V2's output, V2 not being needed in option A. It probably would make more sense to just build PSU Option B, there is little need to switch back to option A... Option B IS the "original" C64 Optimized PSU circuit that TK developed, and is just as good at supplying 9V to 6582A/8580R5 SIDs, it's just a little redundant and I think puts more load on the 5V DC supply than it needs to... i.e. PSU Option A is more optimal for 6582A/8580R5 SIDs. But if you ever want to try 6581 SIDs, you need option B. You should probably just ignore option C and D... completely ignore option D if you are not planning to build a big case with a mains transformer, huge heatsinks and regulated 12V/9V/5V supplies. Option C is a fallback option and not fully thought out... a 5V regulator regulating 1A from 9V DC will need a heatsink that won't even fit inside a PT-10 case. So just build option A or B. Use headers and shunts on J71, J72, J73, J74 if you like, but don't really worry about soldering parts for the other options (leave off all parts for option C, esp. V4).