Wilba

There are still plenty left if anyone is interested.

Count me in for 1000 of the black ones. OK maybe just 100.

I forgot to thank you TK for sharing these patches and workflow... I am a happy n00b now!

You are correct. What can be confusing is connecting what looks like the "ground" of a 9V DC supply to the 5V supply. This is quite OK when the supplies are separate... looking at what goes into the 7809, you can see it is a separate 9V AC supply and therefore does not have the same ground as the 5V supply. The 7809 therefore regulates the input voltage so that it outputs 9V above (relative to) the common pin voltage, in most cases this would be connected to ground, in this circuit it is connected to a 5V supply so the output will be 14V above the "ground" of the 5V supply.

I'm deleting my old posts so I can post new ones and stay on 1000 posts. Now that's lame. *whack*

I may have 1000 posts (hooray!) and be a MIDIbox Guru, but I am a n00b when it comes to sequencing techno.

I will send PayPal invoices when I get the encoders and recalculate actual price (sometimes I have to pay customs duty, sometimes not). Price estimate could go up or down by 5%.

jimp, always post YouTube videos of pop culture references like that... it saves me time hunting them down.

Artwork in PDFs is available here: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/wilba_mb_6582 as well as the original FPD files, I've also added some DXF exports of the original FPD files... you'll need AutoCAD to delete the FPD artwork and leave just the holes/cutouts. Since I published the original FPD files, I've made new ones that incorporate the waveform symbols and added extra labels to the rear panel as seen in the silkscreen artwork... I'll publish those soon (or just ask/nag me for them).

I'm paying today, they said they would ship on the 16th, so can post next week hopefully. This should be an easy distribute, I'm not testing each one like SIDs! Sorry to the people who missed out... I ordered 2000 because it's the minimum order. There's probably enough demand for another order of this size so I might do another 2000, or someone else could run another bulk order of these. Post here if you want to join in a future bulk order.

Canon EOS-350D + Canon Speedlite 430EX (bounced off the ceiling). Not even a macro lens, just zoomed in. I might invest in a macro lens one of these days...

I've been collecting the names/emails of people wanting PCBs. SmashTV has expressed interest in running the next PCB order to save on people's shipping costs and combine it with parts kits, etc. and keep them "in stock". The current PCB pre-order tally is at 70 base and 64 CS PCBs, so a small run of 100 each will keep everyone who is waiting happy and have some left over. The delay in this PCB order happening has been primarily because I would prefer to actually put mine together fully first and get feedback from all the other current builders and incorporate some improvements into the next revision. People are using parts I hadn't expected, or have parts that don't fit as well as I expected. Any revisions will still be compatible with the published panel design (and any panels already made to this design) including the use of the C64 power switch (500pcs of an identical part is now being imported by me and will mostly go to SmashTV for parts kits) and the 16mm rotary encoders (2000pcs of which I am importing now and which SmashTV is almost certain to keep in permanent stock). I know how much it sucks to be kept waiting, sorry... but it's better to wait for things to be done right. (That's not SmashTV's fault, I'm just as much a perfectionist).

Yes, I meant M9. And the datasheet says 8.9mm diameter shaft and they hehehe I did it for me. I need more encoders. And I have Bulk Order Madness Syndrome, which makes me do crazy things like buy 2000 encoders because I need 30 right now and maybe another 100 at most in future. Cheap encoders for you guys is just a side effect of this madness... *whack*

Current orders: Wilba - 250 SounDuke - 50 stryd_one - 300 jimp - 100 seppoman - 100 Sasha - 100 KnowGood - 100 amp1ron - 100 reboot - 100 zid - 100 nebula - 100 Dirge - 100 TheProf - 100 illmenator - 100 huck - 100 B.jamin da Bass - 100 robert lowell - 100 Remaining - 0

I have arranged to import 2000 of these encoders: http://en.soundwell.cn/newEbiz1/EbizPortalFG/portal/html/ProductInfoExhibit.html?ProductInfoExhibit_ProductID=c373e91a7c13d8c38f6acbc483ecd9ba&ProductInfoExhibit_isRefreshParent=false and distribute to the MIDIbox community in lots of 100. The specific part number is EC162102E1B-HA1-006, so according to the drawing, the "L" dimension is 20mm, "a" is 12mm, "W" is 7mm, "D" is 8.9mm (takes M9 nut), the shaft is "FB-TYPE" (standard D-shaft type with notch at end like picture), 24 detents, 24 resolution. I have fully tested samples of this exact encoder with MIOS and they are exactly the same (electrically) as ALPS STEC16B, the encoders from Voti (which come from Electronics China and which I've used before on MB-6582) and (I assume) all other types of 16mm-wide encoders which look like this one (like you see in many construction photos of MIDIboxes). They are great for DIY projects because they come with washer and nut for mounting, the leads are spaced 5mm apart and the mounting tabs are spaced 15mm apart, so they fit nicely into 100mil spacing prototyping boards. As for their feel, if you have used the STEC16B or the ones from Voti, they are essentially the same, perhaps a little smoother, with a slightly more tactile detent but less of a sound, not stiffer or requiring more force to move over the detents. They come detented but are easily made non-detented by opening them and bending the metal part that rubs against the disc attached to the shaft. I've taken shots while I did this on one of the samples. In this shot, I've bent the tabs up. Note how they go through slots in the top part - this makes reassembly much more secure You can see they are of a different construction to the STEC16B and Voti ones, instead of two brushes (connected to pins A and B) making contact with a disc of radial contacts (connected to pin C), this is reversed... three brushes that are common cause bridging between one or two of the radial contact sections (connected to pins A and B) and a solid contact section (connected to pin C). I really like this design! Here is the detent mechanism. You can bend that copper metal part flat and it no longer makes contact. In theory you could bent it just a little to make a less tactile detent. How Much? Estimate of cost of 100pcs, including M9 washers and nuts, and including shipping: To the U.S.: $67.41 USD ($0.68 each!) To Europe: 49.79 EUR (0.50 EUR each!) The exact price might be a little different to allow for PayPal fees, exchange rates (payment will be in Australian dollars), and customs duty fee (10% of shipment cost). I don't think that people really care about a slight difference when it comes time to pay... they will still be a lot cheaper than Voti's or Mouser's prices for the same part (eg. 1.25 EUR from Voti, or 100@US$1.76 for Mouser part 318-ENC160F-24P, and that doesn't include shipping or customs duty). I am only selling these in lots of exactly 100 per person. Do not ask me for "just 15". It is quite likely that SmashTV will order some more of these and sell them in small quantities in future, and it will be a lot easier for him to sprinkle a few in your next SmashTV order. This bulk order is mainly for the people building a few projects and want to stock up on rotary encoders at a bargain price. Terms of Sale I am selling these encoders, therefore I guarantee they will be as I describe in this post, such as the dimensions, electrical characteristics, MIOS compatibility, ability to remove the detent, etc. If the parts delivered to you do not meet these criteria, you can return them to me for a full refund (including return postage costs).

Aren't you all glad I added those feedback pots to the MB-6582? (rare smiley appearance -> ;D ) Wicked sound, TK... it would be great if n00bs like me could deconstruct how that was put together... can you share the bassline patches perhaps?

Someone referred to this thread as stryd_one's "panel rage" and further commented that he did not like stryd_one making this discussion "aggressive". I don't agree stryd_one is being aggressive here, and people who know stryd_one also know he's always the one to keep calm and tries not to offend anyone, so any suggestion that he's doing differently here is plainly wrong. He is just pointing out the facts which should have been agreed upon without question by everyone, including Altitude and they are: Altitude is responsible for the bulk order and therefore responsible for what he delivers to you for the money he received. Altitude was responsible for the quality assurance and checking of the panels before shipping, so any returns or refunds could be easily arranged. Yeah I would never have considered it possible, but since the first panels were screwed up (recall very thick label lines?) and shipped back for cleaning and reprinting, I would be even more cautious and check everything, including the position of every single label. I also would have assembled my MB-6582 to check it all was good. I would have preferred to make everyone wait and refund everyone their money if it wasn't 100% correct. It was not the group's responsibility to check a picture posted on the forum for artwork errors, and it IS a HUGE OBVIOUS error when you stick the knobs over the holes and see how it looks. Also, you can't check the quality of the paint (or lack thereof) from that picture. So instead of Altitude accepting the responsibility, apologizing and offering to fix things at no further expense to the bulk buyers (or admitting he can't afford to fix things at no further expense to the bulk buyers and asking us politely to pay for the shipping), he gives brief posts to this thread and proposed solutions that are inadequate, and doesn't address the issues I raised or answers the questions I asked or do as I've asked. I still don't know if I send my panels back that I'm going to get quality silk-screening or just the same hyper-glossy white paint that bleeds into the black text and be patchy with black showing through and maybe fall off just by looking at it too hard. All of you in the "I don't care if it looks like crap" camp, just stop reading this thread... you have your panel, you've thanked Alt like he's done some incredible service to the MIDIbox community (it's just a bulk order, not rocket science), there is nothing more to see here, move along. If you're here just to argue against stryd_one's point of view, which can be summarized thus: then you can start arguing with me too, because I concur with stryd_one on each and every point he has made, including feeling sympathy for Altitude.

Congratulations Narwhal! It's great to see it in action! BTW, I'm not being critical of how you put yours together, but just to clarify to everyone else, what I meant by "threaded spacers" are things that look like this: so you use a screw to attach the PCB to these (which are glued to the panel).

I haven't fully used the four lines on the 4x20 yet... instead I got the rest of the MB-6582 control surface differences done (extra buttons/LEDs) and left this as the last thing to do... yes it's quite easy just to shift everything to the middle two lines but I am hoping to get feedback from users that have finished the MB-6582 about how they might like to use all four lines.

I don't think so... I've had similar bad luck with salvaged 6581... I've never got one with a working filter, and many had dead oscillators too. I've got about 8 (10? 12?) 6581s of varying degrees of broken. As soon as you started to use the filter, it would pop, make noise, go silent, etc... generally stop working until you reset it (power it off completely, I think). I remember some broken 8580s were like that too... if MB-SID started on a patch that didn't use the filter, it was OK, but as soon as you switched to a patch that used the filter, it just stopped working, or make strange noises, and changing patch didn't do anything... it's a one-way street, turn on the filter and it just curls up and dies. Any "respectable" chip seller will refund or replace chips you test as D.O.A., hopefully yours will. BTW, really sorry to hear about your bad luck, majjam... I was really hoping you'd get a good bunch with few broken ones.

Yes.

1. There will be a gap of 2.5mm for standard sized LCDs mounted behind the CS PCB, as discussed in lengthy detail on the forum when discussing the design changes I made to accommodate LCDs, since my original MB-6582 used a now-discontinued PLED display which I mounted in between the panel and PCB. 2. That's what the corner screws are for... you use nuts to hold the panel to the PT-10 case before you mount the PCB.

btw, the dual-gang 500k pots used at the back aren't on this parts list, nor are the eight 3-pin SIL connectors to connect them to the SID modules. Also, my order for the power switches (aka. C64 power switch) is underway. For the people getting the first few base kits from SmashTV, and people who are ordering/already ordered their own parts, you can get one of these switches sent from me directly, it should be really cheap to send it in a letter. After I've sent a big batch to SmashTV, he can include them in the base kits. Also, I've found some nice rotary encoders from a different supplier to the one I used for the original MB-6582 (aka. the ones from Voti). These are exactly the same dimensions, a nicer feel when detented, and easy to open and make undetented. I've confirmed they work perfectly with MIOS and IMHO are superior to "the ones from Voti" and will be quite cheap too. (Things often are cheap when you buy 2000). Please don't email me yet with orders for these, I'm just letting you know that it will be happening, should you want to wait for these. There will be big formal announcements on the forum soon and I'll email the MB-6582 builders directly so it's not like people reading this will miss out.

Current orders are 374 (plus 16 for myself) of 512 in this batch.

I don't understand the opinion that some of you have... that just because these panels were cheap, therefore it's OK for them to be a complete stuff-up, everything misaligned to the point of text being covered by the knobs. Would you be OK with the PCB fab deciding to move pads and tracks around on the layout to fix things? Would you be OK with the panel maker changing the size and locations of the holes? How can moving the artwork around to suit their own amateurish printing capabilities be acceptable? If the PCB and panel holes didn't line up properly, you'd all be mad, but when the artwork and panel holes don't line up properly, most of you don't seem to care. If you spent $400 for a one-off silk-screened panel set and received these, you'd be mad as hell and demanding they be done again. If you spent $4000 on 100 panel sets, you'd still demand they be done again. Why should it make a difference because you only paid $40 for one panel set? Go have a look at the silk-screen on the MB-6582 PCB... that's the sort of detail and accuracy I expected from silk-screening. These panels were supposed to look better than paint-filled engraved panels from FPE or Schaeffer, not worse. Altitude, can you please confirm with us what options we have to return the panels for silk-screening? Will it be done by the same printers, or can we request they be done by someone else? I don't see the point of having correct artwork printed on there if it's still going to be spotty, blotchy, poor detail, bleeding edges etc. I am assuming the fab that made the panels cannot refuse printing them again for free. This seems like the only easy solution for most people, at least people eventually get a cheap panel with the correct artwork on it, only having to spend on postage costs, and is a workable solution when only a minority will want to do something about the panels. While this is being arranged, it would make sense to email everyone in this bulk order directing them to the recent posts in this thread, so they don't start gluing stuff to their panels before knowing they could get them fixed.