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Wilba

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Everything posted by Wilba

  1. I think it's easiest to just connect the LCD directly to Core and just don't solder the D0-D3 wires onto the LCD. If you don't strip those wires, they can just be taped back to the cable itself in case someday you want to use this LCD for something else that requires all 8 data wires connected.
  2. I just sent SmashTV 400 rocker switches exactly like the C64 power switch, and these should be shipped with the parts kits from SmashTV. If you are not getting a parts kit from SmashTV, I can sell some of my 80 spares directly to people who have base PCBs in their hands. (If you're getting PCBs from a future order, it would be easier for SmashTV to sell you one along with the PCB). I was trying to clear my bulk order schedule before announcing I have spares and getting flooded with requests.
  3. Congrats Jaywar! It's so often the optocoupler. I think SmashTV should pack two per Core kit, it would probably halve the reported MIOS upload issues.
  4. err... what's the problem? I found it in 5 seconds by searching the forum: http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=7365
  5. TK explained how the touch sensor works in MIOS, a long time ago... http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=1544 I don't know why the touch sensor was explicitly turned off for the switch matrix example. My guess is that it isn't relevant and you can combine touch sensors with DIN inputs not being used in the matrix. You'll have to experiment for yourself to find out if it works.
  6. You might want to consider dedicated buttons for Instrument/Operator select buttons instead of a mode switching button. Knowing your past designs, you might prefer a full matrix of 24 illuminated switches, instead of 24 LEDs and 4+6 switches on the edges. That would require firmware changes and obviously a full switch matrix with diodes. Also consider rotating the matrix so it is 4 wide and 6 high, and moving labels around to suit. It's all configurable in the firmware. However, all suggestions are just guesses on my part, I haven't built an MB-FM yet and still struggle with arranging the layout to look aesthetically pleasing on a PT-10 frontpanel.
  7. AFAIK the V-pots don't need to align with LCD segments, since they are not changing a parameter that is at a fixed place on the LCD. Sometimes the V-pots are changing the same parameter on different operators, i.e. V-pot #1 changes Operator 1. See cs_menu_matrix_table.inc in the firmware source code for more info.
  8. This is a different kind of touch sensor... detecting the touch of a conductive contact... A 10k resistor to ground is going to cause a voltage divide at the DIN input, 10k/47k*5V=1.06V, well under logic high threshhold. I think this is what your finger is doing when it touches anyway... grounding the charge with your body. (It actually works better if you ground your body).
  9. My experience with MIOS touch sensors wasn't that good... I wanted an array of them fairly close together but there was some serious crosstalk between them. I don't think you can connect touch sensors as part of the switch matrix... switch matrix works by sinking current on one "row" of switches, i.e. one pin of DOUT is low, the others high, so that when switches are closed, the DIN inputs which are normally pulled high are pulled low. MIOS touch sensors work by DIN inputs that are NOT normally pulled high... there is a high pulse before sampling and if your finger is there, it "soaks up" the high pulse so it samples a low. http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_din_touchsensors.pdf So I'm not exactly sure how you would turn that into a matrix version... and even if you can, I'm guessing there would be some cross-talk issues with it as well. But don't take just my word, experiment for yourself, you might have different results.
  10. I find it amusing when a German asks what's happening about some knobs made in Germany which will be sent to England and then sent back to Germany... ;D
  11. Sorry for the off-topic, but I disagree... they are the same MBHP modules just assembled onto one PCB, and where possible, I've even kept the same part numbers. The PCB makes it smaller, and a bit easier to put together (less wiring, no DIY power supply/BankStick), but you still can and should learn how it fits together by looking at the schematics and wiring diagrams.
  12. THE 6582 SID MEGA-SALE IS NOW CLOSED! A future 6582A SID MEGA SALE will be arranged through this wiki page: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/wilba_6582a_sid_mega_sale
  13. You can't supply a 7805 with +5V, regulators need inputs of at least 2 volts higher than what it outputs... and especially can't supply Core:J1 with only +5V, as it goes through a bridge rectifier as well... even worse if you supply ground to J1 as well as supplying ground elsewhere to ground pins on other modules, because of the bridge rectifier... You can supply +5V/ground directly to J2 on the Core.
  14. I don't really like taking away a working C64 from some other potential buyer who wants it complete to play games or for a nostalgia trip or to set it up for their kids. Ripping out one SID and tossing the rest just seems so very wrong. Now that I have enough new stock of the power switch and power socket, I'm going to restore C64 that I salvaged for those parts, and put back the SID that came with it. I have no idea what I will do with it then... maybe sell it to a Prophet64 user? ;D
  15. MB-6582 PCBs Update: http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=10302.0
  16. The MB-6582 PCBs will be available for purchase from SmashTV's store some time in the near future. SmashTV has voluntarily taken on the massive effort of assembling kits of parts for the MB-6582 base PCB, and now willing to stock the PCBs in large quantities, so you should all count yourselves blessed that he slaves away to make your life easier (and your MIDIbox build cost as low as possible). SmashTV does not have the PCB artwork from me yet, because I am a paranoid perfectionist and before asking someone else to put up their own money to stock hundreds of PCBs I designed, I want to be absolutely sure there are no problems with the PCBs whatsoever. SmashTV might order 100 or 1000, either way, I owe it to him and everyone building a MIDIbox from these boards to get it right. Therefore, before PCBs get made, I want to finish building an MB-6582 from the last PCB run, to validate the changes I made from the prototype AND to see if any other improvements can be made. While I have built up the base PCB and fixed the base PCB errors already, the delays in getting panels meant I did not start control surface construction until yesterday. Doing things right takes time, and I don't have much spare time. So, if you are on my notification list already, you will be emailed when SmashTV has PCBs to buy. If you are not on my notification list, you can email me at Jason.S.Williams @ gmail.com to be put on the notification list. While you patiently wait for the PCBs, read the entire MB-6582 wiki, which should explain everything you need to buy and how to build it: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/wilba_mb_6582 Do not send emails or PMs to SmashTV or me with the following content: When PCBs will be available? What other parts do I need? Can you send me a kit of everything I need? There is a lot of information to read in the wiki, can you read it for me? I do not want to deter the MIDIbox newbies from building this project, but there is the expectation that you read the MB-6582 wiki completely in addition to the MB-SID V2 documentation and the Core/SID/DIN/DOUT/LCD/BankStick module documentation and MIOS documentation before you start ask questions that may already be answered. Everyone is most welcome to ask any questions of me about things that appear to be missing from the MB-6582 wiki, or if the MB-6582 wiki does not explain enough or is not clear enough. You can also post questions on the forum, there are enough other people building the exact same thing that someone can help you. What started out as a one-off, pro-looking MIDIbox SID that suited my needs has evolved into 200+ wanting to be made by MIDIbox gurus and newbies alike. This was never my intention and way beyond my expectations, so while I understand people who have some parts already are eager to get the rest together and start building, keep in mind that if this was a real "kit" like the x0xb0x, you'd probably have to wait just as long, if not longer, until the "kit" was ready to sell, and then probably wait in line as well when demand exceeded supply. Regards, Wilba
  17. There is a possibility I can get more in the future, but it all depends on the demand... to keep the price down I have to buy in bulk. If I have orders for a few hundred, I'll buy another batch. This might happen after a new batch of MB-6582 PCBs are available for sale. Current stock is 22.
  18. I still have 35 left, "ready to ship out".... well, I do invoicing/testing/posting in batches, so they're as ready to ship out as possible for me, since there's only 35 left and only 17 in my current "queue". By "risk of ebaying the chips" I assume you mean buying them on eBay? There's risk I guess with the 6581s being broken, but the 8580s and 6582s have given me very low broken count... 3 in 1000 I think.
  19. There isn't one complete block diagram like the one you linked. See the bottom of this page for a collection of PDFs showing how to connect things: http://www.ucapps.de/midibox_sid_manual_hw.html I had a look at the DIN/DOUT connection PDFs and my MB-6582 mods have infiltrated into there... ;) For your own reference, you can reduce the number of DIN and DOUT modules you need by wiring all LEDs and switches into a matrix (like what I did with MB-6582). e.g. four DINs for 15 rotary encoders, one DIN for switch inputs, two DOUT for LED outputs and one DOUT for current sinking both LEDs and switches in the matrix. You don't need the MB-6582 PCB to do this, but you can use the wiring diagrams as a reference for your own wiring (scroll down to Control Surface Wiring: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/wilba_mb_6582 Then you can use the setup_mb6582.asm as a base... this will have the settings to enable the "SRM" (shift register matrix) and you can customize the tables to suit your own wiring.
  20. Thanks TK... I think I'll start using a +/- 9V supply and regulating +5V from the +9V.
  21. Yeah there's a difference between "username" and "name" in the profile settings. It is actually annoying in the chat, as the chat uses the "username" and not the "name". I'm sure an admin could change the "username" if you asked nicely.
  22. Linking to another page is encouraged! That's a great link, and explains in more detail the idea I got from Paia's website. You don't need to use your own transformer and mains power wiring etc. You can plug an AC adapter that outputs AC (not DC) and connect it instead... this is essentially a transformer with power plug and wiring done for you. ALSO it is a little known fact in the OPL3 module schematic that you could run the whole PCB with +/-5V instead of +/-12V. I haven't tried this, but if so, it makes it a lot easier and only one bipolar supply is required... you would supply the Core module directly with the 5V coming out of the bipolar supply, NOT through the Core's own 7805. I'm going to try this approach on a breadboard first and will post some results soon.
  23. OK the quote is back, estimate is accurate, still looking at around US$9 per chipset. The only thing stopping this bulk order now is my time, I'd rather get all these SIDs out the door, and build at least one MB-FM to test the samples I have before I go order 100 chipsets. So just keep logging your interest in the wiki and I'll order whatever the total is in a few weeks. If you are really really keen to get something other than 1:2 ratio of YMF262 and YAC512, just PM me your custom order, chips are the same price so they would be around US$3 each.
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