Screaming_Rabbit

... take the datasheet of your LCD for the size of the 5x7 blocks and the spacing between them. The Channel spacing depends on your individual LCD sice. Greets, Roger

... habe auch kurz gegoogelt aber nicht gefunden, was ich auf der Musikmesse gesehen habe... vielleicht gibt's die Firma auch nicht mehr :'( hier die Links, welche für Dich interessant sein könnten... um weiter zu googeln :P http://f51.parsimony.net/cgi-bin/topic-flat.cgi?Nummer=203710&Phase=Phase1&ThreadNummer=237 http://www.envogue-24.de/Neue%20Seiten/Synthesis/Shine.html Greets, Roger

Hello Can somebody tell me, which encoder to take? http://www.elma.de/files/products/rotary_components/pdfs/optical_incremental_encoder_ty_002.pdf (page 5) Ordering number under "electronic". Would "1" be o.k. or has it to be filtered? Thanks for the help Roger

I'd like to buy very cheap switches for my test setups only ... 1. Where to get the cheapest ones? 2. Can I run into problems with cheap switches (specially when multiplexing)? Thanks and greetings Roger

Thanks gillesdeshays :) I'm very interrested int that too. Having one display for more than one core for troubleshooting.

Hey Steven Sounds like you're working with Fairlight ;) ... great system! Why not take an older PC (a 1GHz P3 for example... almost for free), uninstall everything not needed (cleanup the OS), install Steinberg "VST Stack" and loop the digital signal from your DAW over the PC-Soundcard and back into your DAW? .... Then use all those nice PlugIns :D BTW: That's how Fairlight implemented VST into their "Dream" Series. ;D Greets, Roger

Hi AV Since you propably don't wanna change the sound of your instrument (...looks pretty expensive, a Marimba :P), I wouldn't go for piezos, because they add weight and change the way the sounding bars vibrate as well they'll propably shorten the sustain. There are pretty cheap condenser microphone capsules available (just about 1 or 2 Bucks). You could mount one into each of the individual resonant bodies and trigger MIDI with the signal. (How this works, somebody else has to tell you, since I'm not much into this approach. I saw some posts, so just search the archives). Propably you have to equalize the trigger signals (at least with Low-Cut) Greets, Roger

http://cgi6.ebay.de/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=familygate&include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=50 Greets, Roger

an other way (not MIDI) take a shuttlepro, program the shortcuts on it.... http://www.contourdesign.com/shuttlepro/ ... and turn the wheel.

In you host application: Is there a finetune pitch value, which is Midi controlable? If so, I would suggest, that you place an encoder right above your fader. The fader controls in half tone steps and the encoder tunes in cents. ...just throwing around with ideas :) Greets, Roger

Hi Xspringe It's pretty hard for me to explain exactly what I mean in english. I'll try it with different words... I mean you only have 100mm phsical way with the fader. So if you got 1024 steps I think when your finger is shaking a bit, you'll propably already skip more than one step. Greets, Roger

Is it right, that 10bit gives 1024 steps? If so, this would equal to 0.098mm per step on a 100mm fader. I think a higher resolution for 100mm wouldn't be reasonably precise controllable anymore. Why not implement a "shift" button, which is programmed to change the fader-dedication from "pitch" to "finetune"? Greets, Roger

Hallo Oli Ich habe vor ca. 10 Jahren einen Amp mit Motorpotis auf der Musikmesse Frankfurt gesehen. Eine kleine Bude oder besser gesagt ein tüftelnder Typ aus Deutschland hat das Ding angeboten. Google doch mal, ob es ihn bzw. seine Amps noch gibt. Falls er die von Dir benötigten Poti Typen verwendet, kannst Du ihn ja mal fragen, ob er Dir nicht einen Speizaldeal macht. Greets, Roger

Hi Gerard http://www.byho.ch/ishop24/product_info.php/products_id/70 Greets, Roger PS: I don't know about you can take the inverter out of the laptop.

Found this and made contact: http://www.sinatech.net (very slow server) They offered me Nokia 3310 LCD (only LCD w/o frame): 50-100 pcs 2.80 USD 100-200pcs 2.60 USD 200-300 pcs 2.50USD ... I think we could get that together in an order... let me know, what you think. Greets, Roger

How cheap is an old Laptop display if you want an appropriate resolution? Then you have to buy a VGA to LVDS (about 100$) converter and a backlight inverter (about 10$) I think, for this you buy a cheap 15" TFT-Monitor Greets, Roger

... not so expensive :) I bought one: http://www.byho.ch/ishop24/product_info.php/cPath/1_58/products_id/70 1$ = 1.27CHF Greets, Roger

Ooops... bad news. Found it on the web: http://www.gpcpower.com/details.cfm?productid=13 Thanks for your answers anyway Roger

Hey Pierrot Even that it's not my type of design... this a piece of art! Greate job and I bet a hell lot a work :o You should send the pics to the museum of modern art in New York, perhaps they would want to exhibit it ;D Congratulations and greets Roger PS: I have no further questions, cause I already saw it in the French forum ;)

Thanks for the input Smash. Is there a way for a electronics beginner like me to find out about it's a switching type or regulated? I didn't open the plastic cases yet. Just this much: It has the sice of a Laptop charger / powersupply and the label has got following printing: 5V 2.0A 10W (between the Voltage and the Amps there is a sign with a line above a second broken (dashed) line). AC Input is 100-240V / 1.0A Does the explained sign tell something about the type? If not can anybody tell me what I have to look for, when I open the case? Greets, Roger

Hello Steve I have some of those clear silicon feet which look similar to the buttons of your tactile switches. They're from "3M". I'll get em from our local warehouse. If you can't find some, I can buy and send some to you. They're just a few bucks. Greets, Roger

Thanks Steve ... for your very informative response! ... and for your warnings. The 3 LCs are my target. I know it's a lot of work (planning, testing, evaluating and so on) and it won't be easy for a newbie like me. I will start small with a MidiMon. After finishing this I will build me one or more  testing-boards to play and test different setups as well as getting more confortable with the programming (learning by doing). The realisation is the last step when the boards are working and I'll take my time to do it (I hope MIOS is still working under the PIC 18F452 by then  :-/ ) Did you give up because of the amount of work or caused by problems? About the Power Supplies: I have 6 pieces and with your information, I'll take one for every core and MF Module (if they're regulated... have to check first). I'll build the 3 PSUs into a 1U 19" Rack (external) and connect them with a multicore cable. Is it better to connect them isolated (1 PSU for one core/MF module) or can I connect them parallel in the 19" case and take the power again from a distribution point within the controller case? THX and greets Roger

Hello I have a few external powersupplies for external LACIE FireWire Harddisks. Specifications: DC Output: 5V 2.0A / 12V 2.2A I think it's regulated, since it's for a HD. How can I find out? ... and is this enough power to run 3 fully equipped MidiBox LCs, or should I better use one for each core/LC module? Thanks and greets Roger?

Hey d2k, grate idea! How good are they sticking? Do you use additional glue? Greets, Roger

Very nice Box! - Compliments! How did you make the printing / labeling? Greets, Roger