drin

Heck, for that matter, T3 has four decks. You've already duplicated transport controls (which in my opinion is unnecessary). Why not duplicate ALL the controls while you're at it? -drin

I can't tell you that for sure, but it's quite possible. If you've populated the 7805 voltage regulator on the core but you're feeding it less voltage than it requires to function correctly your core voltages will be all messed up. I believe a 7805 requires at least two volts above its regulated 5V output to function correctly. Feeding it anything less than 7 volts will result in weird voltages all across the board. 4.46V simply ain't going to cut it. -drin

That's going to be a problem. You need to determine your needs BEFORE you build the box. Decide what you want it to do then assemble it based on those needs. Would you buy a car and drive it, then decide what you want it for? It just doesn't work that way. -drin

OK, hint taken. :D I've been waiting till your production duties slacked off before mailing you. I guess that's now? :) -drin

Strange Michael. I'm running the same version and I still have the problem. So does my buddy the NI Traktor betatester. They've told him it's not fixed. -drin

Chances are you're better off with a MIDIBox64 rather than a MIDIO 128. My suggestion is: Step 1: Go to http://www.ucapps.de. Step 2: Start reading. I'd suggest (in order): http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp.html - Introduction http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp_core.html - Core Module http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp_din.html - DIN Module http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp_dout.html - DOUT Module http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp_ain.html - AIN Module http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp_aout.html - AOUT Module http://www.ucapps.de/midibox64.html - MIDIBox 64 Design http://www.midibox.org/users/tor_arne/midibox64_walkthrough/index.html - MIDIBox 64 Walkthrough Step 3: Read them again. Step 4: Consider reading them one more time. Step 5: If you still have questions, search the forums for the answers. Step 6: If you still have questions, ask away. -drin

I think you may have it backwards. DOUT is used for digital output from the core, ie; to light LEDs. DIN is used to accept digital input into the core, ie. to read button presses from your interface. There's a clear example in C of how to light LEDs based on MIDI note here: http://www.ucapps.de/mios_c_set_dout.html. Start there and keep on reading. That's the best way to learn how MIDIBox works. -drin

Hi ac. I think adding this to the Wiki is a great idea! I can envision the users here putting together a reasonably complete simulator without too much trouble based on your work to date. Thanks for being willing to share it. -drin

Always!

I saw a kbd very similar to this in Tokyo last week. Called the Roller Piano. They were on clearance for $65 U.S. Link here: http://www.notebook-laptop-batteries.com/Toys-Games/Roller-Piano.htm. It actually played pretty well, but of course there was no tactile feedback or velocity sensitivity... -drin

One more hint - you know there's a bug in Traktor regarding scratching, right? Unless you're using the MIDI timecode discs in Final Scratch it doesn't really scratch very well. There's a lot of skipping and popping. The bug has been present since Traktor 2.0 and while NI has been informed about it multiple times there's been no fix from them yet. -drin

Yeah, just tell Eagle there's no bottom layer on your boards and (if I recall correctly) it'll render with wire jumpers instead. -drin

Easiest is to do it yourself! Buy 1 litre of Ferric Chloride (I use MG Chemicals - $7.99/litre). Buy single or double-sided copper clad boards from your local electronics supply shop (or Radio Shack if you need to slum :)). I use P&P Wet to print the board on a laser printer then iron the paper onto the board. Drop it into the ferric chloride, agitate gently for 30 minutes at room temperature - one completed board! Relatively easy and FAR less expensive than farming it out... -drin

Repeat after me: Eagle, eagle, eagle, eagle, eagle, eagle, eagle... Continue repeating till you pass out. :) Eagle is the best package I know of. I found it difficult to understand at first so I looked around at PCB pckages for about three weeks. I should have saved my time and just dug into Eagle first to begin with... :) -drin

Easy. Go to your local giant hardware store and buy translucent plastic washers. Look! Diffuser rings! -drin

Hey dengel. Are you planning on having ExpressPCB etch your boards for you? Just in case you didn't know, the software only lets you layout boards - you then have to send the files to them, where they etch them and return them to you. I tested it last month and a simple 1 inch by 3 inch 4-switch/4-LED board was going to cost $70 to etch! You can't even do a screen capture of the layout and use it for an etch, because the size is deliberately wrong in the onscreen version. If you want to etch your own boards and pay a LOT less than that, you're much better off with Eagle. It may take a little more work to learn but it'll generate board images you can use to etch your own boards. -drin

Unfortunately, you're still doing it. Without more information we can't help you. -drin

If this is the case probably your MIDI Out to the core isn't working. The core isn't receiving any of your messages so it just sits there resending the upload request. As Thorsten said, please answer the questions asked so people can offer more advice. Right now we're just shooting into the dark. -drin

Yes, that's what it is. Why? Did someone steal your mouse? All your fingers were broken in a tragic blimp accident? There's a Mafia thug standing in front of your computer and he won't let you use it? Saying "I can't upload Midibox64 anymore... what's wrong?" is the same as saying "My car won't start. Why?" to an auto mechanic. No-one here can read minds (well, maybe TK can, but he's not telling us if that's the case. :)). We need more information before that question can be answered. What are you doing? What software are you using to try to upload the Midibox64 application? Do you get any other messages from the core when you try to upload? Have you checked all your MIDI cables? Are your ports routed correctly so you can see MIDI Out messages from the core? In the meantime, perhaps you should try reading a little - that might just help you solve the problem. Try these for starters: http://www.ucapps.de/mios_bootstrap_newbies.html and http://www.ucapps.de/howto_debug_midi.html. -drin

My point was that you don't need Traktor to control status LEDs. NI can't even get recording to work right in Traktor 3! There's a HUGE thread on the NI forum about the recording bug, and MANY threads about the numerous bugs that have been present since 2.0 and still haven't been fixed! I think having OSC is a dream - it won't happen in this version, and if by some miracle they do get it working it'll be so full of bugs it'll be unusable. -drin

Well in part that doesn't matter. You don't need Traktor to send MIDI messges to control the cue LEDs. Just let your MIDIBox application turn them on for you. So, instead of: Button press---> MIDIBox app ---> Traktor ---> MIDIBox app ---> LED on You have simply: Button press ---> MIDIBox app ---> LED on | | | v Traktor The VU meter, however, won't work with Traktor because it doesn't send MIDI out messages. That part is true. -drin

Just finished reading the changelog - this is GREAT! Thanks TK! As always, amazing work! -drin

Hey everyone! I'm looking for a North American source for these fader/slide knobs: http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?ModuleNo=19662&QV=Y&C=EBook&U=Ecat#vouchers. I would gladly buy from a European source like Maplin but we're in Japan and because of our military address anything sent to us has to be mailed to California, then forwarded to Japan by the Military Postal System. This seems to about triple shipping time for anything I order. I've checked all the usual suspects: Digikey, Mouser, RS Electronics... Basically, I'm looking for fader knobs for an 8mm shaft. Thanks in advance for any help you can offer! -drin

Have people suddenly lost the ability to read? See the menu on the left, where it says 'C Interface'? All the instructions are there. <sigh> -drin

Again, I can't speak (either officially or unofficially) for Smash, but I believe that deal was only for people affected by the lost shipment. Cable's easy to buy and not that expensive. The mere fact that the headers are now DIL makes buying it a joy compared to soldering the SIL headers for an entire box. :) -drin