/tilted/

Hiya. Minor note for the board itself. Many DIL-40 sockets have a brace across the middle (ie, between pins 10/11 and pins 30/31). The resistor placed there might be a slight issue... if it moves over a little, and/or increases in length a little, then you'd be running the resistor lead under the brace, which should be ok. Mind you, making the package longer means fewer of those lovely 0.005% links ::) Nice kicading.

Nice work! Should this be hosted on the wiki page directly? ... Stryd?

save some for me!

You've got a half finished box? Top job. You know what I've got? A box of mint-condition faders (never been soldered). Around 300 LED backlit tact switches (condition as above). Probably 25 of Smash's kits (fully assembled, but not yet turned into anything) 6 2x24 EL backlit LCDs... This list just goes on and on... Midiboxes? None. I just don't seem to get enough time in one block to actually finish the things. Please Foona, don't lose heart now. Go and Dub their socks off, then finish your masterpiece.

...sorry, I'm just a little slow on the uptake here. are you actually making money from music? As in, not just taking home a few bucks at the end of a gig, but turning a net profit? Awesome!!! </cynical_mode>

Would it be more advantageous to use a couple of the dual-row pin headers we're all so accustomed to? If the front panel needed to be dissassembled for any reason, unplugging a handful of headers to seperate the boards would be much less painful, and you could take only half the board out at a time. If space is a consideration, these headers could of course be mounted on the reverse of the PCBs. This method would also make shorts between connecting wires much less likely. (Assuming of course that we actually use the pin header, and don't try to save the 20c...)

I want some! I don't have time to even figure out which ones yet, but I'm in!

That is fantastic! It's almost got an arcade vibe to it. It looks like something you could play Moon Patrol on! Nice one!

Not quite true. The AIN pins (all of them) need a voltage between 0v and 5v. This voltage is used to charge a known-value capacitor inside the PIC, and the charge here is 'read' by the pic (at least, this is the most likely option, to be honest I haven't checked, but this is how most low-cost AD converters work.) The point is, the PIC doesn't care what type of pot you have. It wants a voltage between Vss and Vdd, and will convert this into a 10 bit number. Of course, if you have a jittery pot, this will happen more often than is needed. So, what you could do is to have a 33k pot, connected to Vss at one end, the other end connected to a trimmer, then perhaps a 'safety resistance, then whatever voltage, say 9V, 12V, 15V... The junction between the "top" of the pot might also benefit from a schottky diode to Vdd, preventing the 'restricted' pot from feeding the pic more than Vdd (which could be an issue). You position the main pot so that the (back) position is at Vss, then you adjust the trimpot so that the highest voltage from the main pot, at the extent of it's travel, is Vdd. Problem fixed bender is a genius stop crying leela.

add-editing is not always a bad thing. The main point is not ot add-edit after someone else has replied. glad to hear it's sort-of going well! ;D

I dunno... if it's anything like that old MB6582 garbage you threw together... /tilted/ is in! Definitely! 1 for me! Only cause I can't justify seven of 'em! ;D

God damn, Cimo!! How many languages do you speak??!?!

could do. make it the +15v version then.

this could work, but you'd also need to increase the voltage at the end of the pot. probably to around 15V, if zero is still zero... otherwise +10 / -5, etc...

I like this frankenpot!! You'd need to use some cogs or levers though, to get as much physical travel as possible out of the pot. failing this, you could perhaps apply a voltage offset and gain using an op-amp. otherwise you'll need to use scaling, which leads to reduced resolution. I have a funny feeling the 'abbey road' version would more likely be multi-position switches, though I could be way off here.

Love it.

Doc posted links to all his stuff in an earlier post on this thread:

Yeah. Lots and lots. Especially to the other side of the pacific. Also the odds that it would arrive functional and intact are less than 1:1. ;)

I'm interested, but my main concern would be where you are located. ie, big heavy synth/keyboard shipping costs. + mains voltage concerns.

It all depends. (I must stop answering posts with "it all depends", but it does...) Mostly it depends on the size of the panel. The bigger the panel is (length by width) the thicker you should make it. Also of course if it's a rack panel, you'll need enough strength to hold the whole case up. So what is the size of the panel you are proposing?

The chips we're looking at are all either 8x16 (MT8816) or 16x16 (everything else) devices. The boards are intentionally designed to be modular, and so form a 'macro matrix' of boards joined in x/y directions. The pin headers on the boards themselves are oriented to facilitiate this very easily using IDC headers on ribbon cable. This means the design is fully scalable from 16x16 to 16nx16n The buffer stages are on seperate boards, so you can use them or not. My sense of this is that for my own purpose (mainly studio use, potential for a second for just guitar or even more for a modular synth with patch recall) - the buffer boards will come in handy for splitting signals etc, so as to not load the effect devices excessively. Re: chat. Sorry stryd, but as I work in theatre, and the show season just finished, my schedule is all up in the air, so I'm not hanging around so much in the chat at my normal times. BRB! Promise! ;D edit: algebraic semantics ;)

Damn, that is hot! I want one!

Too many horse parallels. I like to decide for myself, whether I think a woman looks like a horse. ;) I do like a few of those moments, though. ;D (some of them were a little hard to pick, as I'm an old rock'n'roll lighting guy, and some of the moments in there had some pretty serious 1980s rock lighting pr0n.) 8)

I'm in on that. Those kids need something to distract them from this crazy idea of singing songs in front of people. Before I saw this, I was still deluding myself that "anyone can sing". That clip is definitely the Number 1. But let's not forget this horrible pile... Horrid. ::)

It should be sufficient to attach the inverter to the 12v supply you have. At worst, you might get some back-EMF hash, but this should be cleaned up by the existing filter capacitors. If not, you could add an LC choke/capacitor network to isolate the inverter, but we'll jump off that bridge when we come to it. ;)