/tilted/

Man! If it does, let me know! I think a MBFM that speaks Martian is totally wikiWorthy!

How good are the connections to your filter capacitors? Also, are the bypass caps mounted? This line seems to suggest a bad SID chip. No idea why this only happens when the control surface is attached... the 12v reg isn't a 78L12, is it? that would explain the problem... fine for running a sid chip, not so fine for running a sid chip, a core and full control surface.

Actually vix, I meant my other message... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6cid85WBkvc Glad to hear it's working... ;D

Wiki page edited: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/mbhp_acronyms May add an extra page with more detail, but not sure that there's much more to say... P.S. Is it poor form to quote your own post??

You definitely should connect Vdd and Vss the same way on all pots. The drawing has it wrong. I think the best way to go would be that: Vdd (+) is at the clockwise extreme of the pot's travel, and Vss (-) is at the Anti-clockwise extreme. You can get it to work the other way, but you'll need to use scaling, and it's just not the right way to do it!! - I've seen that drawing a few times in the past, and it seems it is a hasty sketch, intended mostly to show the star pattern, but generally ends up creating confusion about Vdd and Vss polarity!! The second one is correct. Vdd is Positive (+5 Volts), Vss is negative. (0 Volts) The terms themselves relate to their use with FET devices. (Perkaps a wiki entry would help?)

.... and they're guaranteed to increase the ehhhhness of you're home theatre system by at least 56 kilofonzerrellis! ...while simultaneously depleting all of your bank accounts!

I'd think you could speed up the DIN refresh without causing horror. - of course, I know nothing about this. The DIN/DOUT chains have a large parallel-serial conversion to do (p-s for DIN, s-p for DOUT), this would tend to lead itself to timing issues, but not for most applications of a midi-controller. Scratching might be the exception here. If you could free up two pins of your core module (perhaps J7 or J10), then you could get better timing for a faster moving encoder. -but again, I can't help with the code. good at plugging things in, not so good with the 1s and 0s. ;)

Say Foona. Perhaps with the extra supply rail from your PSU, you could make it a +12V line, and put a desk lamp / littlelite or two on your box? Just a thought. Sweet box, if I haven't said it enough yet... ;)

I second that. So much for getting anything done!

Can't help on the specific model, but they remind me a little on the paddle-style switches found on old Kenwood stereo amplifiers. If you look for paddle switches at e-switch or digikey, mouser etc, you might have some luck. Generally 'toggle' switches have a fairly stiff feel, whereas the paddle switches (which are more like rocker switches with a paddle instead of a rocker) are a lot easier to 'flick'.

yes, this should work, and be repeatable. coding will be slightly more envolved... but only slightly I would think.

excellent. Did you pass my message on? Did it help?

You could be onto something there with dodgy pots. If they are really bad, you might not get the full range available, say if the wiper doesn't reach the extremes of travel due to a manufacturing flaw. I'd say the lesson if that is the case, would be to get the best pots you can get (mind you, don't go too far. You don't need linearised conductive plastic or anything... unless you have a mysterious benefactor to pay for such things.)

I swear, that PSU looks so old school, you'd expect it to be plugged into a U48 or something. I love it!

Eww.

Yes, it should be safe to do this. I would recommend that you keep the filter caps on the board. Also, you'd be safer leaving the optocoupler on board than removing it, if you were thinking down those lines.

Damn, that is nice! I'm very glad you clarified the DIN != AC thing. I was a bit concerned as I read down the page. I think asafnetzer is referring to spacing here. I may be wrong, but I think Sasha has made some quite compact boxes, with a lot of knobs in a small area. Sasha's 'record' is for close-spaced knobs, not quantity.

I made the initial order in deutsch. Subsequent communication was in english. I think they were on to the fact that mein Deutsches ist schisse. ::) - It's true - ask anybody!!

potentially dumb question: have you tried tuning using only the neck pickup? also, use fingertip rather than a plectrum, also pluck near the middle of the string. fairly boring stuff I know, but it should help a bit

Is this true smaudio? Are you also from the planet's posterior? We may be able to help. Of course if you're from anywhere but Australia/NZ or close, you'd be better off dealing direct with pollin.de

would it be worthwhile adding a high pass as well, to get rid of all sorts of ick, like mains hum, handling noise etc. Also, maybe filtering out the fundamental and tuning to the harmonic would be better??

The logic you want to apply is: Output 1: A + BD + !BC Output 2: !A + BD + !BC this means you only have to encode the (BD + !BC) once, which will help. there are ways you can break this down further into only one type of chip, if need be.

so vix, any word on this? did you load mios v1.9f? did you triple check for wiring errors? also, tell your lcd I said: "ack d'ack b'dack dack m'ack ack d'dack dack" that'll fix it.

I know the same chip was used in the Mirage, and maybe also the ESQ 1. apart from that, not much more I can tell you.

Not really. Perhaps we can find a source for the oscillator, or work around it with the code.