/tilted/

Now now, I don't mean to offend anybody's sensitive voodoo chicken asthestics. I merely sought to postulate over the myriad methodologies inherently available to those who seek to solve the problems of the DIY world. uch as those holy Ghost busters or yore didst crosseth the streams against their better judgement to rid this plane of the evil Gozer via total protonic reversal, o too I thought the culmination of two utterly disparate realms of EE methodology might be brought to the fore to rid the holy PCB of the dreaded demon excessicus hotglueminus.

Jeez! You guys are no fun at all! I was hoping to return today and find: "The best thing to use is Peanut Butter and Ice Cream" or "Rub all surfaces to be glued with dust, dirt and grit before gluing, to make glue removal easier" or at least: "Put on a tinfoil hat and wave the Voodoo Chicken"

I was vegetarian for 9 years. First thing I ate (which brought me back to eating meat): Roo. Just the tiniest little sliver. Just a tiny taste. Next thing, I'm licking my fingers, by hand, my arm... It was bloodlust. Pure, simple, bloodlust.

Damn. I sneezed, and missed this order while wiping my nose. By a full day apparenty!! Let me know if you have overs.

One possibilty: heat. If you have a heat gun (the type used for shrinking heatshrink on to cables), you should be able to get enough heat on there to melt the glue. I would suggest you re-check solder joins in the vicinity after allowing the board to cool. My other suggestion is precisely the opposite: cold. If you have some freezing compound, you should be able to get the glue cold enough that it will shatter. A few taps with a screwdriver might help here, and it is HIGHLY RECOMMENDED that you wear safety goggles while you do this. If you don't have safety goggles... get some. It should be noted that I have not actually tried either of these, but one of them should work. Perhaps it would help to test one or both of these methods "in an inconspicuous area" first - ie, get some protoboard, solder on some cables and glue them, then try to remove them. I'd be interested to hear the results.

That's not me I swear!! I lay the cables in nice straight lines, then while I'm gone they writhe and wriggle all over each other and have lead sex, so that when I take them out they're all tangled.

hehe.. drug and drop... sorry, I'll shut up. :P

And if the above doesn't happen, then 5 cables will fail, 1 minute into the show.

Perhaps a clock box to convert the note to clock signal, then slave the SEQ to the ClockBox?

Just a thought, while you're in that area... the roland 'V-drums' system allowed the user to assign a 'sequence' of notes to the bass drum pad, so that with each kick, you would also hear a different bass note in sequence. I imagine the main idea is that it's a sequence where the main clock is provided not by the internal processor, but by the kick drum pad. Possible?

It's a little simpler to understand if you use a little bit o' fixed pitch action and formatting: See? It's a look-up table, a column for the name of the function associated with the button, a column showing which SR chip the button connects to, and a column showing which pin on that SR chip.

hmmmmmmmmmm...

Line driving is helpful, but only really for digital signals, not as much use for analog. One core per box would be really the best way to go here. You won't need DINx4s or AINx4s (as stryd said). Edit: Just to clarify, line driving can be useful for analog signals, but not at such a low frequency as we're discussing here. Line driving for analog signals of audio frequency and higher is done frequently.

Or maybe a 55 character version?? (MBLC)

Happy birthday!!! Rock Rock on!!

Just re tapping again (like I said, tap addict...) I imagine it would not be too difficult to allow tap tempo using a MIDI note#? Let's say, that I could generate using an electronic drum pad...? Now I'd definitely tap THAT!! ;D

nope, but there's a [url=http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,11790.0.html]bulk order for the PCB/url].

I wonder if these were made by a dying knob-casting machine, in it's last throes of knob creation.

The MBSID Step B is not quite the same configration as the swindus design. The Step B has 13 (14) buttons, and one encoder. Also, using the TK board overlay, you cannot connect more than 2 encoders per header. The encoders use 2 DIN pins each. So, if you have 14 buttons, you can do 4 on J4, 4 on J6, 4 on J8 and 2 on J10, with one encoder on the other two DIN pins of J10. Then you could connect 2 encoders to J5 and 2 encoders on J7. Basically this means that multiple DIN boards can be daisy chained together for more inputs, ie: [tt] CORE--DINx4--DINx4--DINx4 [/tt] up to 4 DINx4 boards can be chained in this fashion, for up to 128 DIN pins. You don't need nearly this many of course. If (and I should perhaps stress here 'only if') you use the SmashTV boards, then you can chain DIN and DOUT boards using ribbon cable and dual row IDC headers, without much concern as to which is which, so long as you remember the order of the boards. ie (using the SmashTV boards): [tt] CORE==DINx4==DOUTx4==DINx4==DINx4=DOUTx4 [/tt]is the equivalent to: [tt] CORE=+-DINx4--DINx4--DINx4 +-DOUTx4--DOUTx4 [/tt] Did I mention this is (AFAIK) only if using the SmashTV boards? there is some lovely routing on these boards, which makes this possible.

Fantastic!! Especially liking the tap tempo! (I'm a tapper from way back...)

These are called radial, yes. The other type you mentioned, axial, is usually referring to an electrolytic cap, where the leads are located along the axis of the 'can' package. These types of cap are a lot less common nowadays (outside of the valve amplifier realm).

Sweet! Knobs! Sweet! They're here! Sweet!

There's a wiki entry on exactly this subject. (It's a common question for newcomers...) http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/introduction_to_ucapps.de

The SID app Version 2.0 onward was written for the PIC18F4685. So no, there will be no trouble.

Various things done to the introduction page.