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Smithy

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  1. Smithy
    Haha not 3 on top of each other no! I'm short 2 components from the BOM, they may have not been finalized when I orderered back in the stone age as Peter would say! ;) I'm short the 4816P-1-103LF Resistor network for RN5 on the LE MEC RH PCB so I presume its needed? Also i'm missing 929700-01-36-RK - the longer Pin headers. I believe these need to be about 8mm long from the top of the plastic to the top of the Pin itself (when standing upright). I think I've found some equivalents on RS, could you double check Andy if you dont mind? https://ie.rs-online.com/web/p/pcb-headers/6812310/ I'm going by dimension "B" in the datasheet: https://docs.rs-online.com/36e1/0900766b8135fed6.pdf
  2. Smithy
    Thanks for the prompt replies! I must be insane (I guess we all know that right? ;) ) As I have went ahead and soldered 3 bat54 diodes on top of the BC818s. It's not easy getting the solder to reach the pins of the diodes but I'm getting there! 5 more to go.
  3. Smithy
    Something has me stumped with the build guide video part @ 58 mins Peter is soldering BAT54 diodes to the LeMEC pcb. I don't have any markings for BAT54 diodes on my LeMEC pcb. My PCB version is 1.0. I only have markings for BAT54 diodes on LeMEC RH PCB of which I have version 1.3_R. Here is the LeMEC pcb I have with the backside showing: And heres the backside of the LeMEC RH PCB Is it okay to ignore the bat54 diodes on the LeMEC board and proceed? Thanks.
  4. Smithy
    Can't believe I lucked out! I usually use a temp of 350 degrees C for soldering including drag soldering. After this I would recommend using a temp closer to 300 degrees for SMT parts! Thanks a lot for your help Andy. The encoder, switches and LEDs are working beautifully.
  5. Smithy
    So I removed the chip fine but ended up lifting the pad for pin 1 when trying to solder the correct 10k resistor network. I had problems getting the solder to take to that pad when aligning the chip - I should have used the chisel tip instead of the bevel to apply solder to the corner pads first.I usually only use the bevel tip for drag soldering. I applied some flux also and that must have been enough to lift the pad. Is there anywhere I can solder a bridge between pin 1 and a pad it connects to?
  6. Smithy
    Sort of answered my own question there. If anyone has any advice on how to desolder the chip, what temperature to use, should I use flux or solder paste, it would be great. I also have kapton tape for nearby components.
  7. Smithy
    So I've been getting erratic behavior with the LEDs on the switches of the JA PCB. I wonder if i made the same mistake soldering the wrong type resistor network? The markings on the IC at RN1 are 4816P LF1-103 C1809 instead of 4816P-T02-103LF. I blame myself for not checking the BOM on midiphy and solely relying on the video! Thankfully i have a hot air station, flux and solder paste so should be able to remedy this issue.
  8. Smithy
    Congrats Andy! I've decided to resume my SEQ v4+ build tonight so your "betatester" should finally have it finished soon too!
  9. Smithy
    Thanks SSP. The cutting came out great! Well done! Hell I'd even label it manually myself if needs be. Let me know if you have any suggestions. Thanks a million, Smithy.
  10. Smithy
    Hey SSP, thanks for reaching out and apologies for the late reply! I would definitely be interested in paying you for a laser cut acrylic front panel. The one slight catch is I need the engraved text to be legible with a high contrast to the rest of the panel. Is it possible that you could use Cast Acrylic at work for this? Or a two tone acrylic e.g. black acrylic with a white core? I am trying to avoid infilling the engraved acrylic with paint manually. As you can see, the original acrylic case for the midiphy loopA for example is difficult to read even in well lit conditions: http://midibox.org/forums/topic/20833-loopa-v2-introduction-features-support-thread/ The cast acrylic would be well illuminated with the high amount of LEDs in the panel also. Which country are you based in by the way? Please find the dxf file attached and the original fpd file it was exported from. Thanks for your time, Smithy. mbqg_fp_modledrings Updated Case Holes.dxf mbqg_fp_modledrings Updated Case Holes.fpd
  11. Smithy
    [3D Printable Front Panel File for use by Wiki] mbqg_fp_modledrings_Holes_Moved_ready_to_print.zip Attached is an STL file of the front panel with raised lettering for use with 3D Printing To produce a bi-coloured panel with a different colour for the lettering please follow this easy guide: This file is provided as a lower cost method for producing a 3D printed front panel as opposed the cost of having an alluminium panel milled by Schaeffer which costs 410 euro in the EU excluding shipping. However, it may be better to use an SVG file to have acrylic laser cut, which will be cheaper to order online and have more accurate cuts and engravings. I have an SVG file ready and working with the Formular.de ordering system, but it is not currently compatible with Ponokos ordering system so I have emailed them. I will update the thread if I make any progress with Ponoko. Here's a preview of the 3D Printable STL file:
  12. Smithy
    Here are some additional 3D Models / STL files for the Buttons and Light pipes converted to the metric system for 2mm Panels: mbqg_fp_buttons converted to mm for 2mm panel.stl mbqg_fp_ledpipes converted to mm for 2mm panel.stl And these files are for 3mm panels with the appropriate mesh extruded / lengthened. mbqg_fp_buttons converted to mm for 3mm panel.stl mbqg_fp_ledpipes converted to mm for 3mm panel.stl
  13. Smithy
    Here's a tip for anyone who wants an easy way of having raised lettering on their 3D prints with a different colour to the case itself. Print the case with lettering with the same colour filament you want the raised lettering to have. Paint or (spray paint is probably best) the entire case in the colour you want the case to be. Then simply sand the lettering with sand paper and the original filament colour will come through. I saw this method posted in a facebook Flight Sim group where a user 3D printed his own Boeing 737 panels:
  14. Smithy
    Here's a tip for anyone who wants an easy way of having raised lettering on their 3D prints with a different colour to the case itself. Print the case with lettering with the same colour filament you want the raised lettering to have. Paint or (spray paint is probably best) the entire case in the colour you want the case to be. Then simply sand the lettering with sand paper and the original filament colour will come through. I saw this method posted in a facebook Flight Sim group where a user 3D printed his own Boeing 737 panels:
  15. Smithy
    User BEBDigital Audio kindly uploaded files for a 3D Printed case 6 days ago, just in case you guys are subscribed to this thread:
  16. Smithy
    Excellent work! Very clean looking.
  17. Smithy
    Congratulations on your hard work everyone involved! Nice to see a MIDIbox device finally get the recognition it deserves! I just wanted to update the thread and say that I had the intermittent booting issue since I built my LoopA and since installing those 2 resistors Andy suggested, it has been flawless! Such a fun little device to get ideas down quickly while remaining inspired and in the moment! One of the most important things for my workflow!
  18. Smithy
    Had a lot of fun of making this Live Cover of Anthony Rothers classic electro banger - Little Computer People. Used the midiphy LoopA to sequence and live loop this one. All the gear used is mentioned at the end of the video. I'm still recovering from surgery on my neck so the vocoder could be stronger. Enjoy.
  19. Smithy
    Updated my post above as the heatshrink was getting in the way of pushing down 1 or 2 knobs. I might try Kapton tape instead now.
  20. Smithy

    MB 6582 PCBs

    Smithy replied to Warden24's topic in MIDIbox SID

    I wouldn't count on them coming back anytime soon just fyi. Logan who was running the shop for John has left to pursue his own business - Low-Gain Electronics. John was too busy to manage it himself so unless he comes back or finds a replacement to run the shop people will be waiting. Also worth noting that John has not been active on the forum since April 2018.
  21. Smithy
    Beautiful work!
  22. Smithy
    Edit: On second thought I had problems pushing one or 2 knobs as the heatshrink gets in the way. Best to use sellotape like peter said or some thinner material. I tr ied Peters method of securing the knobs to the shafts of the encoders with Sellotape but I found the tape simply would not stick well to the encoder shafts and sometimes fell down to the bottom causing noise when turning the knobs. So I came up with a more permanent or secure method. I used blue heathrink as you can see in the first pic that was as close to the diameter of the top half or the D shape of the shaft and shrunk them with my hot air station at about 200 degrees taking care not to heat up the encoders too much. Then I slipped on the knobs with some force and they secured quite nicely. Only con really is that more force is needed to get them off again but i'd rather that than having loose knobs getting lost! Hope this is of use to people.
  23. Smithy
    Lost count! Friday i spent most the day, saturday a half day, Sunday a half day, Monday most of the day, and finished it before lunch on Tuesday. But i take my time with things like this, and encountered a few problems like trying to fit the microcontroller in and cut all the legs! I think i was being overly cautious with cutting those pins as close as possible.
  24. Smithy
    Here's the time lapse video i recorded of the LoopA. I gave up on the solder paste and hot air method early in the build, as the solder paste I used didnt come with a plunger and my plunger was a bit too narrow. I have officially converted over to drag soldering now and its much faster. When I soldered the Mattias switches the recording stopped as a calendar notification popped up on the phone! Luckily its 99% of it is there! Thanks again to everyone involved, everyone is credited at the end of the video.
  25. Smithy
    Thansk guys! Yes even a noob like me can reproduce which is a good sign and will hopefully inspire other newbies! ;) By the way, all images have been fixed in my previous posts. I tried the right clicking, "copy image" and pasting from google images which caused the problem. This usually works fine on other sites but not with Community Software forums apparently.
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