Smithy

Here's the time lapse video i recorded of the LoopA. I gave up on the solder paste and hot air method early in the build, as the solder paste I used didnt come with a plunger and my plunger was a bit too narrow. I have officially converted over to drag soldering now and its much faster. When I soldered the Mattias switches the recording stopped as a calendar notification popped up on the phone! Luckily its 99% of it is there! Thanks again to everyone involved, everyone is credited at the end of the video.

Thansk guys! Yes even a noob like me can reproduce which is a good sign and will hopefully inspire other newbies! ;) By the way, all images have been fixed in my previous posts. I tried the right clicking, "copy image" and pasting from google images which caused the problem. This usually works fine on other sites but not with Community Software forums apparently.

A wild midiphy LoopA appears! Huge thanks to Andy, Peter and TK for making my dream looper come true! I just need to test MIDI I/O now.

Here's how the OLED header looks with the rear panel mounted:

Shhhh! Its a secret! ;) Guys i think the I was sent the wrong sized nuts for the rear acrylic panel where 2 nuts slip into the slots. The nuts have a 3mm height and will not fit. Luckily I have 3mm nuts with a height of about 2.3mm that will do the job nicely.

Photos aren't the best, I should really use an endoscope! But hopefully you can see it was necessary to trim the back upper corner of that connector.

I have the row soldered and cut already but ill take a photo so you can draw imaginary lines down to the connector with your eyes! Ill take a photo and upload it at 9am GMT.

When pushing down the Headers for the OLED I noticed that the top of the 8 pin DIN for the BLM got in the way despite filing off the "nip" as Peter put it. I had to file the corner / back of the connector off at an angle even further so the standard SIL pins would have enough clearance. Maybe my connector is slightly different to the one Peter used in the video? It sure looked the same, as it has the metal tab on front that needed to be filed down. Case goes on tomorrow morning and I should be done!

Posting this in case I forget it. I couldn't receive a response from the Core using MIOS Studio 2.4.6 which i downloaded about 2 years ago. Using the latest version 2.4.8 allowed the core to respond and I was able to upload the firmware.

@TK. if you could update the MIDIbox Chat link to the link for the discord server in time it would be great.

Great work. Now we just need to add channels and moderators. With Peter and Andys blessing we could push it on the midiphy facebook page also when its ready. We have quite a following on their already! ;)

Hey flexi! Great to see you back. A discord server for MIDIbox is a great idea! Has so much more features than IRC, now why didn't I think of that!

The trick to maximizing viewers in the tags and concentrating on one particular synth. You have so much stuff that people who are searching for specific sound demos on one synth will probably bypass your videos Pete. Thats my logic anyway.

For some reason the channels cancel each other out, I used an iriver H340 to record that demo, so if you're listening to it on a mono device like a phone speaker you hear nothing!

Be sure to share your patches in the patch thread! I haven't got deep into the MB SID yet but I made 3 patches: Irish Whiskey Driving Bass Strings

Hi Bruno, what CAD software(s) did you use to design the mockups? im currently studying CAD at the moment, Thanks for yout time, Adrian.

Interesting! How did you find this out Thomasch? Did you open yours up?

Wow, what a great device and what an amazing demo! Congratulations Bruno! I might have to remix that melody of yours too! ;)

This may be useful for people for powering their music equipment while travelling or for mobile gigs etc... I was quite impressed and hope the company does well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1sbECZ_HQqk

A genuine Hakko 936 style tip works wonders over the Chinese clones also, really worth spending the extra money one from my experience.

Got it! Removed the 3 Jumpers from the Waveshare itself, and changed the slider from USB to 5V and now its working fine! Peter shows it here at 55:46 https://youtu.be/QaN26uzUA1A?t=3345

I seem to have same problem, running the sdcard command in the MIOS terminal returns: When i check the voltage between Pin 3 GND1 and Pin 4 (VDD) I get a negative voltage, i.e. -3.3V Black probe to GND1, and Red probe to VDD. I presume it should not be negative? Thanks for your time, Adrian.

Thats a good question actually! I wonder if Peter or Andy have a USB "doctor" stick to test, they're really quite handy.

Found a really cheap source for the 19mm transparent Multimec caps / 1S11-19.0: https://ie.farnell.com/multimec/1s11-19/cap-19mm/dp/1132952 35 pcs = €13.00 Including VAT Plenty of Stock, and free Shipping to the UK and Ireland, not sure about other European countries. RS Online would have cost me €41.38 with delivery for 40, (multiples of 10) Found them via https://componentsearchengine.com/ , which figured out that farnell had the .0 missing from the part number, never trust google alone!