Kartoshka

seems like time has come to project terms of firewall talk onto int'l postal services ;D

i would take 2 or 3, for that matter. 25 seems fairly easy aim. anybody from inside italy, can give a hint about shipping prices, even by sea, to israel?

Correct.

pcbs are inexpensive and could be purchased from SmashTV. the target of this topic is to get TLV5630 for as low as possible.

discussion about bulk of TLV5630 and... the target is to get the chips as low as possible.

Hi everyone. The reason to initiate a new topic in this section is to find inexpensive bulk supplier of TLV5630, used in AOUT_NG modules which are subsequently essential for controlling seppoman's SSM2044 filter boards. One TLV5630 per every AOUT_NG/SSM2044_PCB. After we find good supplier and quote the prices they will be taking, we could set a wiki. Any ideas/directions about said above, are welcome in this thread. Kart

@chuck

Crypic - Pin Me Down.... what a tune, man! ;D thumbs up

no excuses! ;D actually no problems with me running this order, but the thing is customs..... here everything above $50 applies to customs fees, and they will be insanely suspicious about strange guy who imports some weird electronics chips PRIVATELY.. got that fun with lcds last year. anyone else interested in the bulk so we really set a new topic?

might be we can run a bulk of TLV5630...

true... for ultracore, i will need 2 to 4..... anyone with good source?

got the boards... thanks seppo!

i'm quite sure this question has been already answered but i couln't find the answer... >>>>PIC ID HEADER for ultracore? i saw this table, but not solved, if i need to mark it as 'Redirect MIDI Out stream to MBHP_IIC_MIDI', or leave the header untouched, or other. edit: Character display, hmmm.... for use along mb6582 and other Roland grooveboxes/synths, x0x, etc

ok, depending on the price INCL. SHIPPING i might be in as well.

sorry to hear, friend... hope for you to get one even better ;)

today i changed the wiring and replaced the fuse. It worked. ;) So for future generations, if you're buying EVENT ASP8 monitors from North America and happily living within 220-240V area, keep smiling. You can adjust these sweeties to work from your local voltage... in ONE step. Mod length: 5 mins. 1. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ things you will need: F4AL250V fuse. You can also use T4AL250V. Philips screwdriver. Any sharp blade like knife, to open decorative black plastics around metal plate on the read side of the monitor. ? Don't be scared to open the monitor. ? Identify brown wire coming from the internal transformer and trace it to end in J14 connector on the pcb. Replace it with blue one, it's coming from transformer, too. This wire must be hidden inside. ? Replace original fuse (on the pcb) with one you bought. ? Seal the monitor back. Done. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

well after a small talk with event's techsupport i think we solved it without using any external transformers. they just told me to replace some wire inside; and that's it.

Peeps, a question to all ya audio electronics and electricity majoring freaks. I got pair of EVENT ASP8 powered monitors, bought off from usa (free shipping! that's the reason) The guts are: 110v with power requirement of 300W (written on each monitor's back) The only problem is that we have here 220V.... :P and monitors are programmed to be working in US/Canada area. In enclosed manual, 200VA stated to be normal (attached below). manual available online says even 100VA being satisfying power requirements. Now, i have 2 options to help it performing locally: 1. replacement of the original transformer inside monitors, which doesn't count now. 2. making use of custom stepdown transformer Currently I have 750VA(!) stepdown transformer, 220-to-110, single unit for both monitors (pictured). My question: is this one is ok for my application and which working temperature of this transformer is considered to be normal, for that matter. Plugged to 220V, after about a hour it already gets VERY hot - that much so you're not able to hold it in your hands. And this without being plugged to anything else. Is this normal? ..... This is my second supply of these types; first was replaced due to low VA (200). Every advice regarding the issue, such as spitting some ice on top, :P or placing it in a lead 'shielding' enclosure/getting another type (lower noise?) transformer and alike is more than welcome.

maybe a bit off topic: as i lack any educational base in electronics i gone and tried to discover why 33+220 in parallel will give you 28.5 ohm resistance.... here is the parallel resistance calculator for simplicity. in general,

if making a bulk, i'm in. Other way i see you used second type of midi ports; and as i discovered recently, there exist (at least) 2 types of those connectors: they are distinguished by distance between front legs.. you applied the shorter distance, and TK - broader ones.

sure, but try the multimeter test.

Could wick remove too much solder so it left pin unsoldered to the pad? don't think so, it heats and melts solder well on pads under all the pins too... am i wrong?

well i did it individually each one and it gone pretty well; but to ensure it i passed with desoldering wick and removed anything i didn't like. i used very thin (hmm.. 0.1mm i think? have to check it out later at home) solder and a magnifying glass.