latigid on

FWIW, I would still suggest to order the Beat LED with the main order. You normally won't have to pay for shipping a second time on backordered parts (at least I've received a smaller packet later in the past).

It sounds so, sorry about that! If you have a hot air rework station, you should be able to remove it, just be careful not to melt the other components.

Please check the part number of your resistor network: is it the isolated one or the bussed one?

I made a new thread already, a mod could also move it to the testing/troubleshooting section if that's more appropriate.

Have you tried to flash with MB_NG, then "load seq_l.ngc"?

Please post your troubleshooting issues here and we will do our best to get everything up and running! The more info you provide, the better the answer can be formulated. What did you try so far? What wasn't working? Pictures, pictures, pictures!

Any recommendations are very welcome! You're right about the cap though: the specs are very non-crucial for this part.

Hello, I updated the BOM tool for the caps (current stock 30k). Never heard of "flex termination" caps, but they sound useful! Probably they'll also go out of stock at some point. The LED is due to arrive in about two weeks, so I won't change that one for now. Essentially any common cathode 5mm RGB LED should work, or even a bicolour or single-colour version (only 2/3 dies are used in the case of an RGB). The Beat LED step is done almost last, so it shouldn't hold up the build. Here's the first link I found on eBay (recommended to get a diffused lens): https://www.ebay.de/itm/50PCS-5mm-4pin-RGB-Diffused-Tri-Color-Common-Cathode-LED-Red-Green-Blue/201570892720?hash=item2eee8fbbb0:g:8HUAAOSwlHRXIk~D:rk:1:pf:0 Note that the delivery might come after the Mouser one comes back in stock, but it's certainly cheaper through eBay!

I just replied in the general out of stock parts thread:

MEC switches are available at Reichelt: https://www.reichelt.de/multimec-button-no-lights-print-connection-taster-3fth9-p156904.html?r=1 or Conrad: https://www.conrad.de/de/mec-3fth9-drucktaster-25-vdc-005-a-1-x-ausein-ip67-tastend-1-st-705268.html TBD62381A is available at Digikey: https://www.digikey.com/products/en?keywords=TBD62381AFWGELCT-ND%09 an alternative part is TBD62083AFWG, with good amounts of stock listed at Mouser (the flyback diodes shouldn't affect the operation): https://www.mouser.de/ProductDetail/?qs=fSnNYG2PaKJPpDBB6xK1QA%3d%3d

Tayda is quite good really and usually has a 15% discount code once per month on F##book. The THT resistors are super tiny ones and the switches aren't great, but I've had fairly good luck with ICs and potentiometers. Just to clarify: we don't have any relationship with Mouser, it's just they have a decent selection and availability of less-common connectors and ICs. At least for the digital circuits there should be no difference using "cheaper" parts.

As far as I know, the differential input means that there is no need for each side to reference the others' power rail, and this could be used to reduce unwanted common-mode coupling/interference. Of course the chips will need their own power, but it seems as though they could be completely independent. I'm no expert on this though. 0V and shield/ground/earth/common are very nebulous topics on the internet :). Audio cables are the bad guy here as they use the shield as the 0V. Best, Andy

:) Have fun!

Interesting news! FWIW, my rendition of the line driver also jumpers the +5V on both ends so you can easily disconnect the supply. I suppose if we were being super fastidious it would be smart to not keep the 0V common (differential driver/receiver) and probably only connect the shield at one end. Users with the TK version could also snip the DB-25 pins. Looking forward to the next tests!

C'est vrai. Also, most decent DACs are fine-pitch SMT, or at least that's what I thought at the time. Plus, there's already a MIDIbox AOUT, meaning no coding or config changes needed.

I never ordered the boards and instead made a THT MAX525 version, which works quite well. The DAC is expensive though.

Hi, still waiting on cases and demo vids. Peter will chime in, but I think he's about 30 chapters in. There may also be some minor component changes to match LED brightness. Best, Andy

Correct. If you use the copy&paste tool on midiphy, the correct parts should be there.

A few updates: We noticed a bug in the BOM ordering system. For lemec_RH board, there are SMT resistor networks: 652-4816P-1LF-10K, which is an isolated 10K resistor network. The link to the Mouser page was correct, but the part number was 652-4816P-T2LF-10K, this is incorrect for lemec_R. If you have ordered parts, please check that you have two pieces of the P-1 part. You still require the P-2 part (bussed resistor network) for JA. Sorry for any inconvenience. In more positive news, the case batch has been fabricated and is off for painting next week. Without trying to promise too much, we expect to have the cases very soon, and in combination with Peter's tutorial videos, maybe a release in November is feasible!

Maybe ask @Hawkeye if you want some cheap DIN sockets. I think he has a few. Myself I'll stick with alright-quality ones as I don't trust the super cheap ones.

New thread maybe? The thru is on all seven outputs (4 DIN and 3 3.5mm), but also on the second IDC header. So you could chain to another board in theory. The other parts are not necessary but just for extra soldering practice.

Still waiting for another builder to verify it, but the 3.5mm sockets are meant for MIDI too. The resistors can be installed both ways around, as there are two possible standards. USB is boring power, yep!

Did you just read this thread or the concept one as well? Participation is simple, just buy the boards/kits and parts when they're available. No bulk order or pre-payment. When the first batch is sold, we'll reorder and so on. Hope that helps, Andy

Nice! Missing pull-up resistors (resistor networks) will often cause havoc with the switching behaviour :).

Are you using the correct hardware configuration file for a Wilba panel?