MB6582 Base to CS connection

[Natsirt]

Hey all,

I'm a big-time lurker, low post-count kind of guy, so you've probably not seen much of me. Greetings!

I'm also lazy when it comes to connecting circuit boards together. So...

I was wondering if there was anyone out there looking for an alternative to all the ribbon cable

business (ie. cutting, stripping, bleeding) and would be interested in something more befitting a lazy person

such as myself, like pre-cut FFC with solder tabs:

http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&name=A9AAT-0802F-ND

I'm open to ideas, thoughts, comments, and would be willing to organize a bulk order

should enough people prove interested.

You can also tell me to stuff it and I will gladly pick up my XActo knife and go home.  ;)

-Tristan

 

[nebula]

Hi Tristan,

I used those.  They're good.

Be careful not to buy them any longer than you need, or getting your case closed will be a nuisance.  Mine are too long and I can't close the case.

[Natsirt]

Ah, I thought that might be a problem...  :(

What length did you end up using?

[nebula]

looooooong.  Stupid long.  5" or something like that.  And I got them with female SIP on one end to mate with a right-angle header I put on the CS board.  You probably want 2".  If memory serves, I bought 10x 8-conductor (made sense with the price break) and 1x 2-conductor.

I've just been too lazy to do anything about it.  But forget about stripping those little ribbons.  They are the length that they are. 

[verpeiler]

Resurrecting this thread... The connection between Baseboard and CS makes me a lot of headache.

The 100mil spacing ribbon cable (Part Number: 606162-F0) from Conrad is no longer available (discontinued summer 2012). As a replacement Conrad proposed a different cable (607378-62). I've tried this without success. This is not the stiff solid wire! It's stranded wire (see first picture) which won't give a strong connection (wire breaks between the soldered connection and the insulation) and it's a pain to remove the insulation without partly destroying individual wires...

Then I found bunches of jumper cables at ebay (search for "Dupont cable" or "jumper wire"). They are 20cm in lenght and crimped to a 1-pin female header at each side (see third picture). The cable itself is AWG26. My idea was to cut it to a short lenght and solder one end to the baseboard. At the other end I pulled the crimped connector out of the housing and pushed it into 8-pin SIL housings (Mouser Part Number: 855-M20-1060800), see picture 4. Looks good, but same problem here: Seems to break easily at the soldered end. :(

Of course I found other threads with different solutions (from Bugfight; the superb guide from Hawkeye...). The Reichelt PSK 254/8W connectors for example (see picture 2) seems feasible, but the cable here is thicker (AWG24 compared to AWG26 above). I tried them (like others did sucessfully) but they are to stiff in my opinion and it's to hard to close the case.

As I couldn't found 100mil ribbon cable (solid wire) in Germany at the moment I might go shopping at Mouser again...

After searching for hours and days I came to another idea (and this thread): FFC - Flexible flat cable. So far I found a couple of vendors (like here) but no supplier which sell FFC cables as long with the proper LIF or ZIF connectors in small quantities. That's why I'm asking for here. :smile:


 

[Hawkeye]

Hey there :smile:

 

While this does not answer your original question regarding the flexible wire - and also it may not be the most elegant solution, you can always fold the thicker and stiff wires at an 180° angle "in the middle" of the MB6582 case, thus allowing for very easy opening and closing of the box. I opened the case multiple times since 2010 and all is good:

 

http://midibox.org/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_rel_module=post&attach_id=7697

 

Many greets,

Peter

Edited June 6, 2013 by Hawkeye

[Altitude]

My advice:  Bite the bullet and just cut all the jumpers to length by hand and make sure you use 24 ga wire with FLEXIBLE insulation (i.e. NOT TEFLON), it takes a while but down the road it will save you a TON of time.  The 0.1" ribbon is a pain to strip and if you break any of those leads, you have to make a new one and take out the old on to fix it (had to do that twice) which is a long and painful operation.  With single wires, if anything goes bad, its ONE wire to replace 

[ilmenator]

I can second that. I have the flexible ribbon cable in my machine, but it was a long and painful process. Things usually go wrong at the last lead in the ribbon cable, i.e. I broke a lot of wires when trying to remove the insulation of the last lead in the ribbon cable...

[orange_hand]

Hi,

 

I can recommend the following cable:

 

http://www.reichelt.de/Platinen-Steckverbinder/PS-25-8G-BR/index.html?;ACTION=3;LA=2;ARTICLE=32346;GROUPID=5216;SID=15UNjuWqwQAQ8AAH2rDD458ecd87cdfb539c0c5e96d06a7805539

 

It works very well and you can still separate both parts from each other:

 

 

 

 

 

[portervance]

I am at this stage in building my MB 6582 but can't seem to source a good quality cable for the control surface to main board connection. I prefer to deal with Mouser or Digikey if I can. I did find one suitable cable on Mouser, but instead of 8 individual wire strands the cable had 4 pairs of 2 wires. Doesn't sound like the right kind of cable for this project.

 

Anyone have some recommendation for connector cable from Mouser or Digitech? Ebay?

[verpeiler]

There is a thread anywhere in this forum where Wilba confirms that Mouser part no. 538-25001-0802 will work.