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Posted
14 hours ago, SimonSays said:

What are fellow seq-tarians doing with the spare 4s or 3s? Pictures, please...

Only 2 spares for the 13-key LoopA - will probably drill them and make earrings for the better half, let's see if she likes them! :) If not, i fear geting hit by the Nudelholz again! :decayed:

 

Posted (edited)

pulling off the caps from the matias switches is quite tough. a lot of force is needed.

The new caps looking great and help with the light diffusion.

 

thanks

Edited by rbv2
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, latigid on said:

Can we see? Would be the first SEQ with them!

What tools did you use? A wire puller? 

 

i pulled them by hand. is there a special tool?

the picture does not match the actual impression. one can clearly distinguish which steps are selected.

IMG_20200402_233818.jpg

Edited by rbv2
  • Like 3
Posted (edited)

Wow, looks awesome! Thanks! I know what you mean about side viewing though, sometimes you're peering into the next switch.

Something like this is also used (I have no experience with it):
https://www.keyboardco.com/product/filco-danish-and-norwegian-part-ninja-keyset-and-key-puller.asp
(or just the one on mech  https://mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1411 )

With a different keycap set, go figure. But the wire puller grabs the diagonal edges. Good if you have to pull a whole QWERTZ/Y layout and have no single rows :)

 

Edited by latigid on
Posted (edited)

Which 10-pin shrouded headers should not be installed?

I'm up to the part where the LE-MEC boards are tested, however my LE-MEC-R board doesn't have J89 SRIO IN header installed, and I don't have any left.

I think I will use a classic gold pin header instead.

btw am having a blast building this kit, the work done by all is outstanding.

Edited by mcmurray
Posted
Just now, latigid on said:

Glad you're having fun! Something to do while locked indoors! :)

You should find "Do Not Fit" notes on the BOM page (scroll down)

https://www.midiphy.com/en/shop-details/137/47/midibox-seq-v4-lh-full-essential-kit-

Just say if you need specific advice for a particular board. If you run out of shrouded headers you could also use a normal 0,1" dual pin header row.

It was J4B that I installed but shouldn't have.

No worries, I will use a normal 0.1" dual pin header row. Thanks!

Posted

Crazy JA PCB LEDs

Hi there,

I am currently stuck with my JA PCB, testing it with the seq_l script. The 4 LEDs for the buttons Track,Param, Trigger and Inst start flickering when I push slightly one of these buttons. They even start blinking, when I touch some contacts like on J2. 

I guess this is a floating data line or a defect IC, but it is not possible to find the culprit without a circuit diagram. Who can help please?

Robert

Posted

Maybe the resistor network is soldered the wrong way around? Have you checked the cables for short circuits? Are other boards connected in the chain? What MIOS events do you see with set debug on?

 

Posted

all ICs and diodes have correct polarity. JA is only connected to CPU board. Mios throws events like Toggle 3038, button 3004, notify received 3006...

Your schematics does not show the signal pathes to the the switch matrix and diodes, could you please copy this picture for me too?

Measuring  signals with a scope, I see normally +5V voltage at the diodes. But D3-D6 have not, only 50Hz hum, they seem not to be connected to anything.

 

Posted

Yes! I was now able to trace the two diodes to the resistor network. Here was the problem, as you assumed at first. Two pins were not soldered correctly.

Thank you very much for your help!

Posted

Build done ! My first diy project ever :D

Learned a lot in the making it was great.

Thanks to Hawkeye videos tutorial, it made the build process a good journey to the valley of endless sequences.

P11001102.jpg

  • Like 2

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