Troubleshooting midiphy SEQ v4+

[southpole]

JPA0, this did the trick! thank you once again! 

also had to delete the previous MIOS32 entry in macOS Audio Midi Setup to bring it back correctly ... MIDI isn't really as smooth under Mac as Peter suggests...

time to sleep, those were enough careless mistakes for today... tomorrow i have to debug a real CAN buss system at work ...

[gotkovsky]

Hello dear midiboxers!

 

I'm building a V4+, and just had my first screw-up… I managed to solder in the wrong directions the gold pinheaders of the wCORE. And of course realized that after having soldered 8 of them.

I tried to desolder them, using desoldering braid and pump but had no luck so far… so I was wondering what would be the best option between clipping off all the pinheaders and just reinstall new ones (I guess removing the solder without the headers in the way would be easier ), or keep trying to desolder and therefore take the risk to overheat the board?

 

Would love to have your opinion, thanks!

[rbv2]

hi,

 

I would recommend to desolder the pins one by one and cleaning the soldering joints afterwards with the desoldering pump. just heat them up and use tweezers to pull them off.

 

Edited March 2, 2019 by rbv2

[latigid on]

1 hour ago, rbv2 said:

hi,

 

I would recommend to desolder the pins one by one and cleaning the soldering joints afterwards with the desoldering pump. just heat them up and use tweezers to pull them off.

 

+1, remove the plastic part if possible and just go one pin at a time. Normally you can get a flat tool or blade underneath and the plastic part should lift out. 

By gold pinheaders, do you mean shrouded headers? If you don't have replacement parts available, normal unshrouded pinheaders also work (I normally use those and check the orientation carefully before connecting IDC cables.

[gotkovsky]

Thanks for your advices! It took quite some time but I managed to desolder all the pinheaders, by lifting the plastic parts and desolder the pins one at a time, as suggested. Even with desoldering one pin at a time, it was a lot more tedious that I thought, now I just hope I didn't damage the board too much and that the rest of the build is gonna go fine :)

@latigid on I meant normal unshrouded pinheaders (Hawkeye refers to them as ‘gold pinheaders’ in the V4+ build tutorial).

 

 

[gotkovsky]

Hello again,

 

As written just above, I had problems with pinheaders, soldered in the wrong directions, which I managed to desolder without damaging too much the board or other components, at least visually. So now I'm a bit anxious because I don't have the skills to know how to verify that every other component on the board is still ok or has been overheated, which I guess would cause future problems.

 

Is there ways to check that other components are still ok or need to be replaced? I spent hours (!) to desolder the pinheaders, being careful not to heat the board too much or stripping the leads, but it's probably way too much time (I obviously took breaks but still… ).

 

Am I being to nervous here? or should I just re-order a new wCore PCB and the corresponding parts, since it wouldn't cost so much?

 

PS: I'm definitely thinking about creating a thread dedicated to my build, so I wouldn't flood this topic with newbie questions, and I'm sure it would help other noob midiboxers just like me, who are willing to learn on the job.

 

Thanks in advance!

[latigid on]

Hello,

Don't worry about it! The only thing that might be damaged are the ICs (74HCT125 x2 and 74HC595). You will easily see if these are bad though, as the displays won't initialise (595 chip) or the SRIO chain doesn't work (IC1B).

If you weren't applying heat directly to the ICs though, I think they should still be fine.

Try and see! If there's an issue, it might be wise to invest in a hot air gun to swap the ICs, which ironically would be really nice for popping out pinheaders too :).

[gotkovsky]

Great, thank you for taking some time to help me, and also for calming my nerves!

[gotkovsky]

Good morning everyone,

 

I made a soldering newbie mistake once again… let's hope it will be the last one.

So working on a LeMEC board, when adjusting the position of one of the superflux LEDs, I managed to lift the pads 1 and 2 of SW8 (see pictures attached). These two pads are not completely ripped-off but definitely lifted, so I'm not sure if they provide a good connection. I should also say that a LED is still soldered on SW8 spot.

 

Is there a way to verify the connection between pads 1 and 2 of SW8 with the soldered LED? Or soldering a wire bridge to another point on the board?

 

Hope someone can help again, thanks in advance!

[latigid on]

You can verify the connections between the superflux LEDs of the same column. I've attached two examples of how they can be bridged if the connections are broken.

Edited March 14, 2019 by latigid on

[Smithy]

Are you soldering the superflux LEDs at the recommended temperature of 300 degrees C?

Going higher can damage them, and if the pads have lifted slightly it sounds like you're temperature might be too high.

Edited March 14, 2019 by Smithy

[gotkovsky]

31 minutes ago, Smithy said:

Are you soldering the superflux LEDs at the recommended temperature of 300 degrees C?

Going higher can damage them, and if the pads have lifted slightly it sounds like you're temperature might be too high.

Yes, I've been very careful about no heating the LEDS, and set my iron to 300°C as suggested. I just had to desolder one superflux LED at some point, I then verified it with a CR battery and it still worked, so I resoldered it to the board, and by trying to reposition it flat, I lifted two pads.

[Smithy]

2 hours ago, gotkovsky said:

Yes, I've been very careful about no heating the LEDS, and set my iron to 300°C as suggested. I just had to desolder one superflux LED at some point, I then verified it with a CR battery and it still worked, so I resoldered it to the board, and by trying to reposition it flat, I lifted two pads.

Ah okay!

Desoldering is usually the main cause of pads lifting alright. Hope you can hot wire it and save it! 

[rbv2]

hello all,

could anyone please help me with the breakout box for my seqv4+?

after first testing the AOUT NG is working fine but i don't get any gates/clocks/triggers from the DOUT. in the hwcfg i have enabled SR 3 for gates, 4 for clock signals, and 5-6 for drum triggers also the setting for the 1ms pulses is enabled.

when shift register nr4 is enabled all the leds on the left LEMEC board lighting up so i'm guesing it's maybe the wrong shift register.

thanks

 

Edited March 14, 2019 by rbv2

[latigid on]

SRs: JA: 1,2; lemec_L: 3,4; lemec_R: 5,6,7,8,9, so try starting at SR10 for the gates.

[rbv2]

Just now, latigid on said:

SRs: JA: 1,2; lemec_L: 3,4; lemec_R: 5,6,7,8,9, so try starting at SR10 for the gates.

I'll try that tomorrow.

thank you for the quick reply

 

[rbv2]

On 14.3.2019 at 0:08 AM, latigid on said:

SRs: JA: 1,2; lemec_L: 3,4; lemec_R: 5,6,7,8,9, so try starting at SR10 for the gates.

you were right. SR10 (gates) , SR11 (trigger 1-8), SR 12 (trigger 9-16).

thanks again, it's working now

[pat_00]

So after building dozens of other DIY projects, I finally goofed and installed some ICs backwards.

On the wCore board, i had the 74HC125s flipped around the wrong way. I only found out when I plugged the USB into my laptop. The laptop figured the USB was drawing too much power and shut down the port fairly quickly. Would the chips have survived this? Should I just remove and re-install them, or replace them? Anything else I might have fried?

[latigid on]

Hard to tell! Probably you should replace them, as getting them off will transfer a fair amount of heat to the chip (e.g. if you use hot air rework). I would hope that any damage would be limited to those chips.

 

[Hawkeye]

@pat_00 if you don't have access to a hot air rework station (which would be the recommended way to do it), you could try to clip off pin by pin with very fine pincers and then desolder/drag away the pin remains with your soldering iron. This obviously destroys the ICs, but should not be too stressful for the PCB. But as Andy wrote, hot air desoldering should minimize the risk to lift any pads - after warming up the target area, the IC should fall right off :).

Many greets and good luck!
Peter

[niles]

Still building the first few boards...probably a dumb question but what is the mouser part number for the grey IDC cable that connects the SD pcb to the core?

I have the 34wire one (517-3365/34FT) but can't seem to find the smaller size on the BOM or my stash of componets. Looks like I'll need a lot. 

Thanks!

[ilmenator]

You can just tear these cables apart - if you have a 34wire one, that will give you three 10wire ones (plus a remainder).

[niles]

Thank you - I wasn't sure how much of that cable I'd need for this kit and was hesitant to tear it apart. 

[gotkovsky]

Hello!

I'm almost done building all the PCBs, and I'm having another issue uploading MBSEQ App on the Waveshare, just searched a few hours on the forum but couldn't find an answer.

So I got MIOS Studio 2.4.8 running (on MBP High Sierra), but the MIOS32 midi I/Os don't show up on MIOS Studio (just displays << none >>). I tried several options but nothing worked so far (tried booting different versions of MIOS Studio, restarting MIOS Studio or PC several times, MIOS Studio on another Macbook running Mavericks too).

Here's all the infos I could gather: 

—Red PWR led on the Waveshare is lit.
—VBUS led on the Waveshare is not lit.
—Checked the soldering on all PCBs and nothing looks wrong.
—Waveshare's pinheaders are not fully engaged on low-profile headers (but I can't seem to push them further).

 

I'd greatly appreciate a bit of help is anyone has a clue, thanks in advance!

 

 

[latigid on]

Just now, niles said:

Thank you - I wasn't sure how much of that cable I'd need for this kit and was hesitant to tear it apart. 

Recommended cable lengths are given at the end of the BOM here.

 

 

Just now, gotkovsky said:

Hello!

I'm almost done building all the PCBs, and I'm having another issue uploading MBSEQ App on the Waveshare, just searched a few hours on the forum but couldn't find an answer.

So I got MIOS Studio 2.4.8 running (on MBP High Sierra), but the MIOS32 midi I/Os don't show up on MIOS Studio (just displays << none >>). I tried several options but nothing worked so far (tried booting different versions of MIOS Studio, restarting MIOS Studio or PC several times, MIOS Studio on another Macbook running Mavericks too).

Here's all the infos I could gather: 

—Red PWR led on the Waveshare is lit.
—VBUS led on the Waveshare is not lit.
—Checked the soldering on all PCBs and nothing looks wrong.
—Waveshare's pinheaders are not fully engaged on low-profile headers (but I can't seem to push them further).

 

I'd greatly appreciate a bit of help is anyone has a clue, thanks in advance!

 

 

Did you use the drop-down menu to select a MIDI port?

Check all jumper settings and try to use the onboard USB micro to connect to your computer.