mongrol

Datasheet check. The Winstar and Raystar appear to be the exact same device. Oddly the Winstar datasheet doesn't list white. http://www.raystar-optronics.com/products-category-detail.php?lang=en&ProID=296 http://www.winstar.com.tw/products_detail_ov.php?lang=en&ProID=385

I also found a reseller in Australia http://www.cresttech.com.au/. They don't stock the 40x2 but have offered to get them in whatever quantity and colour I want. I've asked for a price. This may prove easier or cheaper than the Italy shop.

P3 enclosure off to Ponoko for cutting. $85US = $113 AUD. It took about 10 hours to design and all the requirements above have been met. Hopefully it'll fit together and hopefully it'll stay together. :) Job queue estimated at 8 days.

Another sympton is when powering on it stays blank. It takes a reset from either the Discovery button, or doing a "testlcdpin reset" to get it show it's gibberish. I'm going to change the header on my working OLED next. If I'm going to break both of them I might as well do it before I order new ones. :)

I've emailed them. When I ordered one there was a postage option called "Oun Forwarder" that came up with $0. The other postage option was about 30eu (ouchy) to Aus. The rego form also asked for a VAT number and I banged in "none" which it accepted. Asked them about that too. Do we need to be vat registered or can normal humans buy from them. No answer yet.

Thanks lat. It must be ok. This display was working just before I changed the header. I've proven both cables and the core with my other working display.

Hi folks, After replacing the header on one of my oled displays I've found it only shows garbled text (see pic). I've reflow/soldered all connections, changed cables and ran through the testlcdpin tests which have proved positive at the oled end. Is there anything else to try or do I now have a expensive duff display?

I seem to have found Winstar OLED 40x2 in white, green or yellow. Check this out. http://www.first-components.com/p/244/weh4002a

I've found out that Inkscape adds the stroke width onto the shape width afterwards. This explains why when I look back at it there's an extra 0.100 on it. I'm lot more confident now I know what's going on. Turns out a good tip is to set the stroke to the size of the kerf, then you get an actual visual of the kerf cut in your model and can use it to adjust slots for fit.

So the enclosure plan is almost finished but I'm just too scared to send it in. This is a $100 AUD print and I've found Inkscape to be a total disaster when it comes to accurate SVG design. Draw a box, set it's size. Go make a cup of tea and when you come back, the stupid things added on some random small number and moved things around tiny amounts. Horrid! I'll need to find some other Linux app to tighten things up before I send it in.

#4 - Enclosure Design With all my switches on and 1 pot (and waiting on parts) I might as well get on with the enclosure. Lots of people like to use the tooth method for acrylic boxes made either manually or with Boxmaker. Boxmaker's pattern looks far too aggressive for me, I bet it grips on like a ugly steel bear. Others use the same method but reduce the tooth count to make it nicer. This works to a certain degree but reduces the stability and solidness of the casing. I had one of these around my LXR for a time. It was ok as I don't gig but it wouldn't last long. All of these teeth designs use "key" screws in the sides to keep them together. Without them the side's would be pushed apart by the pressure from the top and bottom panels which are screwed together. On the Axoloti forum I found this design. The teeth go inside slots in the top and bottom panels which are screwed together. If the teeth and slots are accurate enough (kerf accurate) then you don't need key screws in the sides. It also has nice rounded corners. I like this a lot and will attempt it with my SEQ. I'm also going to attempt a couple of other improvements The only screws that show in the top panel will be the ones around the side holding the top and bottom panels together. The CS will be standoff'd to the bottom panel instead of the top to avoid any middle of the panel screws showing. To stop panel flex the CS will have 10mm standoffs on top holding up the panel. You just won't see them but they will be there making everything sturdy. I'm going to reduce the size by using the CS mounting holes (and 1 Display hole) for the case edge standoffs that hold the case together. The CS will be 1-2mm away from the case edges with no standalone standoffs around the side. The display holes are a bit tricky to bottom mount but we'll see how we go. I hate the thickness of the core. Would love to decimate that audio socket badly but that would mean making a non-standard case that others can't use.

Thanks Guys. I ran out of IDC connectors (they don't survive 10 removals) so have ordered more. I'm happy enough to leave testing until they arrive. I have one encoder soldered up so will now move onto the enclosure.

Alas I'm struck down. I can't for the life of my work out the orientation and wiring for the IDC ribbon to the Core. I was trying to do an angled IDC box header underneath but no matter how I make the cable or which ever way I put the box header in I always end up with the wrong pins. I assuming S0 goes to S1, Rc goes to Rc etc? But I always end up with either S0 to S0 and Rc to Rc or S0 to S1 but with Rc going to VS instead. It's driving me mad.

Has anyone else verified that this happens with Detented 1 without crossing the pins? Norbim1 said this; 16mm types: A B Common (this is what the CS was prepared for) - 12mm types: A Common B In the Alps Datasheet I see this; Looks like A B Common to me. Doh, looks like he was right. A wiring I will go...

#3 - The Control Surface Music: Tortoise, Atoms for Peace, Bert Jansch The CS seemed a bit daunting at first until I found out about "top soldering". The CS is double sided with pads on both sides meaning you can solder on either side and get good joints. I took advantage of this wherever I could. Amazing speed up. First we put the board up on standoffs high enough to let the wires of the components dangle without touching underneath. Following Hawkeyes Tut I dropped the diodes, resistors and caps in one go then soldered them all up, turned it over and snipped all the tails off. Top soldering is a magical time machine! The joints look nice and clean and it also makes for a lovely neat underside. Unfortunately that's where it stops. The IC sockets can't be top soldered so I used the tape method instead. If you don't want to use tape I sometimes use a bit of cardboard to cover them and hold them in place while I turn the board over. Same result. After that we're onto the switches. They all click in nicely and stay in place when you turn the board over. 232 joints later and we're nearly done. But disaster striketh the mong! Alas I'm stuck! My boat has been cast upon rocks. I've been foiled by incompetence (probably my own). The box connector needed to talk to the Core is a 10 pin SMD part. I've been sent the wrong thing!!! Well that answers the question I had when I first went through my delivery. :( I now await the opening of a local and dusty electronics store before I can move on.

#3 - The MIDIIO's Music: Sparklehorse - Vixiedixiesubmarinetransmissionplot, Mantra - Shukyamuni Buddha (took a lead from Phatline and zoned) Time Taken: 90 mins So easy I didn't even use a Hawkeye visual aid. The ucapps midiio page has all the placement information in it. One thing I will point out is the order is wrong. Do the IC sockets and headers before the big caps (height order y'know) then finally the MIDI sockets. Next, the big one. BRING THE THUNDER!

#2 - The Display Well that was both easy and hard. Making IDC cables is very easy. Simple cut the cable with scissors and, making sure you align the striped bit with the little triangle on the plug, poke it through the jaws till it's flush with the other side. Then squeeze it together. Make sure you do it evenly (a vice is good) as if you don't you may snap the side clips. So use a big set of pliers or something you can get even force. Then fold the cable over the top nice and tight and push on top locking thingy. I made cables up and looked at the pinout on the OLED. Pin 1 was nearest to me so I put the cable on with the stripe at pin one. Plugged it into the Core and nothing. Hmm, stared and poked, replugged, stared at solder joints. Tested with meter and got funny readings. Then found a post about 3.3v and set lcd_type 0x02. I started playing around with that and managed to get one display up. No luck on the other. After hours of staring, poking, reflowing joints, reading schematics and testing I discovered the 5v OLED's should really be 5v after all. Who...would....have....thought? Tada!

No luck. What I don't get is where the 3.3v would come from. The STFM only outputs 3v which mine very nearly is (2.9v). This is enough to drive one display not two. Oh ffs. Now I swtich J15 to 5v and both OLED's come up. Which is what I'd expect from 5v OLED. :) It appears I've been led a merry dance by an old support post.

Well thats odd. Pin 1 on the LCD PCB is opposite side (furthest away. Out of desperation I swapped cables and now have 1 LCD working so I'm back to the lack of 3.3V. set LCD_TYPE is 0x02 (which supposedly means CLCD_PP if the boatloader was updated (running 1.18). Tried reflowing around the 595 and resister array and everything else around it. Still only getting 4.8v. More testing shows 2.9v on the VDD and 3.3v pin on the Discovery board. Adding 3.3v jumper to J15 gives me one OLED. Soon as I plug in both they go out. VDD on teh working display is 2.9v. Time to try different PSU's

Silly me didn't have the hub PSU plugged in. Now getting 4.8v at the OLED header. Still no picture though. Looks like I need 3.3V according to this thread; But with the jumper set I'm still getting 4.9v. Hmm, reflow time. Looks like I also need "set lcd_type CLCD_PP" in teh bootloader.