stryd_one

Now you know why I'm all about polyrhythms ;)

Yeh, that would suck... That's why that's not what I mean ;) I find the best way to avoid floating point is to avoid floating point hehehe... Just stay with good old fashioned fractions 1024/3=341 and 1/3 or you could say 1024/3=341 with a modulus (remainder) of 1 So can use 341, but if you want it to stay in sync, you've gotta spread the modulus around. You can use calculations to do it, but that could be a bit too much for the PIC to handle at such high frequency. However if you know what values you want to have available (like how you have 3/1), a nice quick way to do it is a lookup table, which has the pre-calculated period of each tick in it like so: 341 342 341 Tada, synced clocks. You just look up the value according to how many times it's ticked, and roll that counter over every 3 ticks. But when it comes to fast stuff like LFO's... You want to be careful how you time it... Try to look up the value pre-emptively. Notice that I put the remainder in the middle... That's where it really goes, because you want to just round to the nearest integer to be really accurate...it's like 0 + 341 1/3 = 341 1/3 ~ 341 difference from the last is 341 + 341 1/3 = 682 2/3 ~ 683 difference from the last is 342 there's our modulus + 341 1/3 = 1024 ~ 1024 difference from the last is 341 Dunno how much of that you'll be able to roll into the app though.... HTH! Edit: I just saw your mention of the SID LFOs... if you're thinking about doing this in the MBSID, I'm not sure it'll work... I need to build one and figure out how the LFO's work :)

Woh! And the doco is the icing on the cake. Fantastic!

Err yeh I heard about that on wdmaudiodev... Gotta love windoze ;) Keep up the great work man!

Attachment [me=stryd_one]has great news today.... but i must get to work :([/me] How's the suspense now, tilted? ;D

Heya, Yeh, floating point won't work ;) The best way to do this if the values will be static (like yours), is with a table of the results of the division, rounded to the nearest integer. However you won't need to do that for the standard measures like 1/3,1/12,4/3,3/8, etc, that's why midi clock is 24ppqn, its the lowest common multiple of all of the common figures. MMA were thinking about us heheheh

Sorry man, dramas with work and timezone snafus and the forum outage are killing the lines of communication.. :( Are they similar to the ones doc posted PDF's of? I'm wondering ow these would compare... doc's is all tested OK, but I like the configuration block idea, that makes it quite flexible, which is suitable when we're trying to do an "every-man's" box. On that note, I'm looking into (as soon as I get time to scratch myself!) supporting either MT88* or AD75019, in a similar fashion to supporting the different aout modules. More to come. Stay tuned, and tilted; stay off the bean, dude Balancing... I couldn't say it better than these two links do. http://www.dself.dsl.pipex.com/ampins/balanced/balanced.htm How to do it http://sound.westhost.com/project87.htm Where to buy it No intrusion lyle, these things go together like beef and broccoli ;)

And what's on it... and the paper mockup...and the various mb6582's.... *drool**drool**drool*

If you're on a 452, then the 452 or 4620 should work, but the 4685 may have issues.

This one: http://www.swinkels.tvtom.pl/swinsid/ ? I've been reloading it daily since this No problems...no news yet though ;)

You ain't the only one, and If I missed it, I think you can be excused ;)

Ahh thanks dcer, I'll update the doco shortly. GPASM doesn't like long filenames.

Both very nice bits of kit :) Tip for ya poly: You can get these mats made out of rubber woven into a grid, intended as a non-slip-non-scratch surface... You'll probably find such a thing in your local hardware store. When you stack your rackmount stuff like that, they work really well to separate bits of kit so they don't scratch each other, and don't vibrate around when you crank up the monitors ;) Edit: aha, like this:

Awesome ! Look forward to seeing pics and songs from the new box :)

Yeh there's definitely a bit of voodoo surrounding the bipolar 12V PSUs... I guess it's because there are so many ways to do it... But yeh, the 12V you'd need for AOUT, AOUT_NG and FM are all basically the same thing. You might wanna look here: Re: FM262 First DIY Project Current-wise, it's very very low. The exact figure has been posted, but it was so low that I don't think anything would be too small to power it, so I didn't bother remembering that detail ;)

Phwoar! Nice one! Best. Vero. Ever.

Hi all, Regarding the similarities and differences between this project and the docmatrix... I have so far spent about 6 hours discussing this with various parties, and need a few more... Please hold off on conversation regarding this, I will report back soon. It is being handled :) Be assured that I will involve any person as much as possible and as much as they would like to be. IE, we are not cutting doc out of the loop, or stealing any thunder, recreating any wheels, hijacking any projects, etc etc etc.... we will not do any such badstuff, badstuff will not be tolerated, and my decision on that is final. Doc rules, OK?! Good. :) (Sorry to be a big bad bossy boots, but this is something I really want handled correctly, and too many chefs could spoil the broth.) I'm at work so must be quick, Tilt and Nomical I'll reply in a few hours.

Oh.... something I keep thinking of which I should mention: Because we cannot change an individual crosspoint without loading the whole chip or all chips... perhaps it would be good to have a feature where you can set a number of patches before dumping that configuration to the chips? Just a little detail.... I've been discussing details of this project with some guys tonight and will report back when the details are finalised.... Need to talk with one more VIP first ;)

Just bumping this: No sweat bud, it's supposed to scale up AND down :) Tell us what you need, I'm sure it can be done. I'm really keen that noone be left out Come back Lyle! ;)

Yeh, I never can figure out which one of those is right! 3 Parasitic capacitive coupling There's our problem.... Looks like I do have half a clue after all ;)

Well, the C64 optimised psu is not bipolar so it requires some modification... Using two EXACT same PSU's should work, and has for some people, but it's also caused trouble for others. Just my own personal opinion, I would not go that way. If I was you right now, I would be waiting for that person (who shall remain nameless until they announce this themselves) to return with a known and working solution, or I would look at NorthernLightX 's very big informative PSU thread... You linked to a +/-12V transformer, personally I'd go for the +/-15V and use circuit #1 from the wiki page - which in case anyone's wondering, is this one: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/bipolar_12v_psu. Quite a few of us have recently bought transformers from pollin.de: cheap transformer for bipolar PSUs at pollin.de Which look perfect for a power supply that would be bang-on for an FM, and various other projects too :) Hope that helps!

I guessed as much ;) Well I think you're thinking about shielding from external RF interference, where this design note is about minimising crosstalk, IE neighbouring signals effecting each other. I could be wrong about this (me analognoob, remember that) but I think the effect is somewhat like a transformer, where the signals create an electromagnetic field, and if they neighbour another signal wire, then the EM field effects the flow through the other trace... I also wonder if this is a "soft spot" where it will introduce problems only where the cable is, or if it's a "weakest link" situation where having this one flaw will compromise the whole circuit in general... My guessi si the former, but .... That's MY guess, which is a bout as useful as tits on a bull. I'll come back to that... Well when you use the ribbon cable you should have the cores going G # G # G # etc so that the signal wires always have a ground separating them. But yeh, if that's good enough, then I'm sure that two layers on the PCB would match it. I guess we could always use something different for the interconnects like CAT5/5e/6. I'm guessing I'm about the only one with a CAT6 crimper around here ;) (and CAT* isn't insulated between the cores, just around them) What's common, cheap, and shielded, and has more than 8 cores? Coming back to the EM crosstalk... I can't help but think that, in conjunction with as much electronic shielding as possible, physical separation of the traces and cables might be enough, it's not like it's super high current running through those wires. The AD8113 does have much smaller pins and could be placed an a much smaller PCB with thinner, closer traces than ours. If we have the traces radiating from the 75019 outwards in a 'star', then they'll quickly reach a point where there's a lot of PCB between them. Likewise we could further isolate them in the ribbon cable like: G # G G # G G # G etc.... Thing is, that the benefits of such a methodology may be great, or just plain not worth the effort... As far as I can see the only real way to know, is to get the PCB's made up and try them, but that's the kind of luxury that commercial operations can afford, not I ;) So the next best thing is someone who is savvy with analog audio design who can tell us what's up... And someone who fits that bill, and will also understand that this is a DIY project and we don't want to go totally boutique (IE, we are willing to make minor sacrifices in order to keep the project realistic) ...I dunno where to find that person :( I probably already know the person, but don't realise it! heheheh

If you have a chance to try out someone else's midi interface that might be worthwhile too... As for the resistor if it didn't help then you probably should change back to the original. Good luck, keep us posted!

Bunsen: Sure, but there's already a "midibox router" (for midi), so I've created http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/midibox_audiomatrix tilt: Exactly. I don't know what's involved in the whole >2 layer board thing when it comes to having PCBs made up :-\ I always wondered though, if you look at it from the edge of the board (side on) they are suggesting this: G G G G G G # G # G G G G G G Where G is a ground and # is the signal...Would this: G G G G G G # G # G Be just as effective? Analog gurus....?

Very nice :)