stryd_one

I meant, give us a link to the switch - no need for that, I was lookig at those earlier this evening heheh Those should be fine, but if you really want to know how they feel, that's what samples are for! The amount of current that flows through the switch depends on the load attached to it (probably just the resistor in your case). Damned if I am doing the math at this hour, I'll leave it to you to find the V I R equation and punch the numbers in ;)

unsigned char i; unsigned char MyArray[num_ains]; for (i = 0 ; i <= num_ains ; i++) { MyArray[(i)] = MIOS_AIN_Pin7bitGet(i); } It's 05:14. If that code actually works it's a miracle ;) It's just pseudocode, i hope you get the idea :)

I've found a couple of other interesting switches in the last few days, stay tuned ;)

Have some cap links: http://www.umd.com.au/itd/products/ksi_kc124.html http://www.contech.co.uk/pages/products/caps.htm http://mykeyboard.co.uk/keycaps/ http://xkeys.com/accessories/keycaps.php http://www.tg3electronics.com/products/pointofsale/tg136mc.php?PHPSESSID=94f96d3f43a44c1c6df883153170249f I LIKE those ones on the top row! http://solutionsinplastic.com/keytops.html Hmmmmmmmmm ;) http://www.customkeys.com/custom_relegend.html http://www.synctronics.com/ http://www.barcoding.com/prodpages/Cherry/628-17329.shtml http://www.barcoding.com/prodpages/Cherry/0628-7379.shtml http://www.thermal-barcode.com/en/catalog/list.php?step1=Cherry&step2=Keyboards&step3=Cherry%20Key%20Caps&multiplicator=1.25 http://www.manuf-apps.com/Cherry/CHERRY_Parts.htm FYI I realised... the switch itself is 15mm, so the cap needs to be at most that width, or else you can't fit 5 across a 2x20 LCD.

Well, there's 5V of potential in the wire all the time, and when you push the button, that circuit is completed and the electricity flows. The current (amps) it draws will vary depending on the load you put on the circuit. In this case, it's just the switch and it's associated resistor, so not much. Yes, 24vdc 50mA is over kill. It shouldn't be a problem, but if you buy switches designed for heavier duty work, they might feel heavier too... Why not just link the switch?

How do you think I got this postcount? midibox>sleep. Especially when you have a buggy SID! We'll be on standby, yatagarasu.

LOL NLX... look at the topic ;D yatagarasu: That midi plug thing sounds like you have a short somewhere... Have you tested all the voltages? Uploaded mios and the application using smart mode in mios studio? What PIC? You mentioned the interconnection test... which one? Lots more information please :)

That 'contact rating' is referring to the maximum amount of electricity you can put through the switch. So if you have a 12V switch, and you put 15V through it, it'll fry. If it was a 24V switch, it'd be OK. Likewise, if you have a 24VDC 50mA switch and you give it 22V at 45mA, you'l be fine... but if you drew 22V at 100mA, you'd likely fry it. The contact resistance is talking about the amount of resistance that the switch introduces when the circuit is closed (switch is ON/ pushed in). Because of the metal parts, and the joins between them, the electrical current does not flow smoothly through the switch - it resists. That resistance will vary depending on how much power you apply, which is why it says 10MOhm at 2-4VDC 100mA. if you gave it 1VDC, maybe the resistance would be higher, etc etc Of course these two factors contribute to each other too.... For our purposes, we're putting 5V and very low amperage, so any of these you've listed (and well, pretty much anything designed for this kind of thing) will be fine.

Man, do kids get the coolest toys these days, or what?! Yeh, this HMD will probably be too low-res for our purposes, but who knows... There's a few other potentially useful gadgets on there too... Light the 'glove' with LEDs in the fingertips for motion tracking... Or the text HMD... But who cares if we can recycle them... Those are kickass toys ;D

;)

There are two types, one will and one won't. The model you showed won't because it has those big mounting pins

Yeh those VF11 are nice, I've got those in my watch list and I want to midify one :) As for fixing busted equipment, obviously it's not worth it, and assuming you can't find a service manual, but in this case it's clearly a power issue, so I'd break out the multimeter and start following traces from the power input until I find the broken stuff.

;)

A little brighter, like comparing my lab to a solar flare! ;D I like them though, I think they're awesome. I might have gotten more if I'd expected them to look so nice, and I'm sure others will want some, so you guys who aren't sure, don't worry, they'll find good homes if you don't want them ;)

It'll scroll off onto your bottom row. http://home.iae.nl/users/pouweha/lcd/lcd0.shtml#_2_line_displays You might want to do a search, I'm sure this has been done before.

Wow they look hot ....

Some of these names gave me flashbacks ;D

Levon you're missing that Mike already said that ;) heheh Also, I don't want to kiss one of my good delays goodbye (they're multieffects so I'd be giving away a reverb/chorus/etc etc etc also) if I can DIY it. Also, it's for lookahead on a compressor so I wanted to build it into the box if possible... It's a fixed installation and doesn't need parameter adjustment (or maybe one or two presets) Also, it's cheaper to buy a dedicated delay line than a dedicated delay of the same quality... I think that's it ;) Thanks Mike... I kinda knew all that but I was hoping someone might have a better solution... I think I'm gonna have to buy one :(

Yeh, I want caps that don't look like they were recycled from a PC keyboard... I don't think they're available here, so I'm out, sorry dude :( BTW, I don't wanna go on and on about it, but you haven't mentioned it since I told you so.... you really oughtta check out the maltron if you are serious about your keyboard.... Ignoring the cherry switch thing, you might like the typematrix boards too.... Staggered keys are so 1800's man, why do that to your fingers?! Don't be fooled by a bunch of blingy lights, think about your health.

Whoops I missed those last pasts, interesting stuff :) But still not a delay line :( Thanks anyway guys! Any other hints? PS: BBD is definitely too lofi... The signal being fed through this will be the last stereo mix of the tune on it's way to mastering processors...

Nope, those are Delays AKA Echos..... What I need is a Delay Line. 0ms 10ms 20ms 30ms 40ms Dry: (Input sound) Sound................................................................................................. Echo: (sound is repeated) Sound..................Sound..................Sound..................Sound.................. Delay Line: (sound is delayed, but you only hear it once) .....................................................................Sound............................ 0ms 10ms 20ms 30ms 40ms

Well I guess we'll have to agree to disagree on that but it does look nice!

Hey 'boxers, I have a requirement for a nice sounding (IE, transparent) but hopefully simple/cheap DIY delay line. That means not a delay (echo) but a delay line. The effect is that whatever goes into the input, comes back out X ms later. I don't even know if it's possible to do this in the analog realm, but I'd prefer to, as doing it digitally probably starts to head into the "cheaper to buy one" realm. Can anyone help? Thank in advance!

No that's not normal. Have you tested voltages and noise, of the PSU output, and at the amps?

That's what I'm trying to say - don't be scared off by this dodgy sales tactic - because you will find that everyone does it, good bad and inbetween.