pay_c

Servus erstmal uuuuund: Wir haben einen deutschen Thread hier... ;D Der Rest vom Forum ist 100% englisch gehalten... ;D ;D Aber ich versteh deine Frage trotzdem nich so ganz. Layoutmäsig müsste eigentlich alles auf www.ucapps.de zu finden sein. Musst dir halt Eagle installieren, klar, aber das gehört hier mehr oder minder zum Standard. Oder du schaust mal in´s Portal: http://www.avishowtech.com/midibox/ Da sind einige Layouts als .pdf irgendwo zu finden. Achja, hier ist´s ja: http://www.avishowtech.com/midibox/modules.php?name=Downloads&d_op=viewdownload&cid=2 Gruß!

Much respect for the tight cabling! My MBSeq looks like pure Chaos versus that baby! Everything has it's clear place! Like it! Greetz!

Look out for ALPS pots really. I think they´re much more better than the Radioohm ones and they normally cost less (depending which type you choose). And you can get ALPS nearly everywhere. Greetz

You could use a [X] for that. 8) For Exchange. And by the way: [X] is so much cooler for Exchange than [E]. ;D In the intro! PS: I have no "lord of the pit", but for that "mox emerald" I would give you two "orichalcum scythes". OK?

Hi there! For all being on the forum and searching/selling something I wanna try to bring up some standard rules here for better transparency for all. These rules do NOT come just out of my mind but more from many DIY forums I am and I have been in for a quite long time. There are some rules, which should be good for everyone here. Critics & suggestions are always appreciated! @TK: Perhaps a sticky? - For the subject: PLS always wirte either a [ S ] for selling or a [ B ] for buying (or searching) in front of your subject. If both is the case just use [ B/S ]. If you want to Exchange something ("I will give you part X, if you give me part Y") use a [ X ]. - If possible, state your country in the subject (e.g. Germany, USA, France, Holland or whatever) - In the topic itself you can also state where you are located more specifically (e.g. city), so people know if they can drive to you and get/bring the article or not - Always state what the article is, in what condition it is and tell a price (either as suggested or as fix price) - And keep in mind that photos are always saying much more than a bunch of words :) - NO bank accounts and adresses in the topics. For more security (especially for yourself) always use PNs for these informations! I hope this is usefull information for you! Greetz pay.c!

Very very interesting! A lot of stuff to read first, but indeed a very interesting topic! I would have *NEVER* thought that LEDs can be used for something like that. The first point: Roland´s D-Beam?!? HELLO? Y? And when you think of the possibilities (like a matrix of LED touchpad where the lighting level of let´s say every second LED depends on how near you are etc.). The only prob I can think about right now is how the heck do they bring away the background light well? Especially if it changes (during a long night when the sun gets back up). And: Why the heck is something like that not used in MUCH more applications (you can think of so DAMN much stuff where that could be implemented). Anyhow: Thnx for those links!

Just try "liquid food" - also called beer... ;D HAPPY BIRTHDAY FROM HERE, TOO! btw: You´re the first godfather I got the honor of wishing a happy birthday!! THNX FOR ALL (yeah, I know: again)!

NAAAAAAAAA!!!! You are apologizing cause you gave your PSU away for nothing? *LOL* I am the LAST person, who would be upset about something like that!! 8) Anyhow, I like the idea. In fact, I´m wondering why not already. Nearly every DIY forum I know has something like that (to be more specifically, the most forums even have more than one topic about that) and it´s heavily used throughout the DIY community.

WHAAAAT THE FRICKIN?!?! OOOOOOOUUUUUUIIIIIIII!!! That was some *"%"§="§$! piece of work! How long did THAT take? Biggest respect and much of congrats!!!

Danke TK! ;D

Yes, I know these LCDs. Still: If you drill the appropiate holes (or cut out a rectangular) you still can put them on the vectorboard. Just make two things sure: 1st that there are still enough holes for fixing the LCD (four screws, right?) and 2nd that the stability of the vectorboard is not decreased to much (once one of my vectorboards broke of at the edge because I tried to fix the LCD like that - there were only two rows = 5 mm left at the border and that was not enough at all). Or you really attach it to the frontplate. ;D Greetz

Aaaaah! Vectorboard it was! ;D Thnx! Although there´s already a socket there, it´s still no prob: Just drill the holes of the vectorboard, where the socket would hit, to a diameter of about 3 mm. The socket will slide through and can be connected as normal and the LCD will be flat on the vectorboard.

Sorry, I thought you were gonna use something like that one: http://babelfish.altavista.com/ The translation is crappy indeed, but at least you don´t have to do it by yourself ;D and you´re still likely to get the point in every sentence. For the link (babelfish): You just need the lower two boxes. In the first one paste this here: "http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=5328.0" (this is the selling thread) and on the second box choose "Deutsch ins Englische" and then click "Übersetzen" - some moments of patience and then you got it. btw: Yeah, right, I would give it away for 4 Euros. The upper part of the pricelist is (as its a jpg it will not be translated): Part, description, pieces available, original price (from shop), status (N=new, NW= like new, G= used), price per piece, price for all available. Some questions unanswered? :) and again btw: Wouldn´t be bad if you´d take some other stuff, too. Otherwise the posting fees will eat up the use of the order if you know what I mean. Greetz!

There are more than one possibility. Easy: Just attach it directly to the frontplate. If you don´t want to have the screws on the frontplate (which are not soooo bad I think) you can also attach the LCD to a breadboard (is it called like that? German: "Lochrasterplatine") which itself is attached to the frontplate with less screws (also all the buttons and LEDs and stuff are on the breadboard). You could look at some pictures of my MBSEQ (on UCApps.de) to get an idea what I mean. There everything is built on a breadboard which itself is attached to the frontplate. There are also other possibilities you could think of (like glue it to the frontplate) - but all more or less .... :-\ Greetz!

Yep, no prob.

Hi Leute, ich nochmal! :) Wollte nur kurz mal anfragen, ob hier in absehbarer Zeit noch jemand etwas braucht? Falls ja, cool. Falls nö: @TK: Könnten mer den Thread dann zumachen, oder? Lohnt sich ja nicht wirklich, da dann nen Sticky drauf zu lassen. @mgabri: Hast du nicht gemeint, du brauchst noch die Pots+Knöpfe?

www.reichelt.de ;D Bohrmaschine hast du? Dann kauf dir einfach nen Senker. Bohrungen senken ist echt *kein* Problem. z.B.:"SENKER 10,4MM" bei Reichelt.

Me, too. ;D See here for other stuff I am selling at the moment: http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=5328.0

The first you can do is checking your 78xx´s. Just let the SID run for some time and then touch them. Do they get hot (especially the 7805 on the main core)? It sounds like a prob with the 78xx, because the probs start after a while and not from the beginning.

Hört sich echt interessant an! Frage: In was für einem Format nehmen die die FPs an? .cad? Einzelne FPs stellen die auch her oder nur mehrere? *Interesse* :) Wär türlich auch zu überlegen, in wie weit da eine Sammelbestellung (von mehreren identischen FPs) da überhaupt sinnig ist...

Cool, keep us informed in any case! Wouldn´t have thought that! :D Perhaps I´ll email them, too! :)

Ok, yeah, sweet they are ("Hello Yoda!"). But: Where can you get them? There´s no "order" button and they don´t look like guys selling 10 of those switches (more likely 1000s). :-\ And the price is a *little* open question, too. Information you got have more? ("Bye Yoda!"). ;)

Stimmt! Ich hab in meinem Studio auch noch einen riesen Aufbau von meinem MSS-2000 Formant Pro Synthi (hab damals einfach zuviele Module gebastelt und nur 50% davon benutzt - irgendwann hab ich den MSS2000 dann heruntergespeckt auf das Benötigte und den Rest "ausgestellt"). Hab einfach die hintere Abdeckung abgemacht (damit man die ganze Lötarbeit auch sieht) und ins oberste Regal reingestellt - was meinst du, *wiiiiieviele* Leute da erstmal dumm gucken und sofort nachfragen. ;D 8) 100 Euronen vs. 100 blöde Gesichter? Haaaallooo?!? ;D ;)

The difference of the letter is the gain. A´s do have a little less gain than B or C transistor types. But in 99% of all cases that does not matter at all. Especially not in *superbly designed* Midiboxes. ;) ;D

Depending on much stuff: Are you using the right resistors at the output? Did you also try connecting the output directly to you amp? And: Do NOT connect the SID directly to a headphone or similar. The SID is not made for that! You sould always use a amplifier!