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Nohohooooormallyyyy (***) metal shaft pots have higher power ratings and are used for that stuff (e.g. in row with relais, direct control of motors and other higher power (>0,5W) stuff). So in MB´s there´s aaabsolutely no need for metal shafts. Greetz

Coooooooool! :D That at last brings in some purpose to all those wrecked C64s here! ;D THNX a LOT! Looking forward for some docu / example progs and so on! Again: COOOOL!

HA! Cool! You're the first from who I KNOW reading the introduction article! That's cool, PLS (PLS PLS PLS) give me a feedback how you like it and what can be written better, in another way, left away or added, ok JEG? Would be some cool help! THNX! ;D

First of all SORRY for the long time no post, but actually I don't have time for anything (again) as I got a new work and moving around again... -> :P :P :P So, I got some pics of the DTV, as awaited some Atmel microcontroller (or similar) + ROM (EEPROM?!? Looks like) and some molded IC on the PCB (whatever's inside there...). If you guys are still interested, I'll post them next time. No obvious SID inside ;) ;D ;) Like NAS described: I really do think you can heavily hack this thing as there are many things obvious (like the ROM). I've got to admit, I'd LOVE having R-type on there... :) Let's see, still some friggin cewl piece of **** I think, I LIKE it! Although I got no time for playing... :'( Greetz!

Also eines vorweg: Die Gameport-MIDI Emulierung ist alles andere als stabil (in 80% der Faelle - es gibt auch Rechner, da funzt das 1A). Wuerde mir ueberlegen, ob man das Ganze nicht voellig anders loest, z.B. ueber RS232. Zum MIDI-Part kann ich jetzt aktuell nicht so wirklich was sagen. Grundsaetzlich wuerd ich aber zur Poti-Steuerung tendieren, das ist das einfachste, robusteste und stabilste. Hab das auch an meinem Laptop (schon eingebaut) und bin 1A zufrieden damit. Mal ehrlich: Wiiiiiie oft wirst du deine Surround-Einstellungen komplett umkrempeln? Weiss schon, ist jetzt sicher nicht die Antwort, die du hoeren wolltest, sorry, aber ich denk mal so ist es... :-\

Hi there! One of the totally COOLEST ideas in the past few years: http://www.c64dtv.co.uk/ C64 + 30 games + Joystick + all stuff needed in one single joystick with two plugs for the TV (running on 4 AA batteries)! LIKE :o ;D :o ;D I do not want to make any commercial about that, but anyhow I'll tell you that it's available @Reichelt for ~20 bucks. I already got one and have to say that this were the best invested 20 bucks in the past few months! I like it like @#%()* !! The sound is surprisingly good, I'll open the joystick up (when I find the time in the next days) and look what's inside. Most possible solution will be a DSP, but anyhow there are chances (quite low) that there could be some 6581-remake in there (perhaaaaps)... Just wanted to let youy all know, cause I just think this is one hell of a good idea! Greetz!

@Wilba: Ooooops, you're right, I forgot the possibility for white/blue LEDs, sorry! In that case, David, the U_LED value is higher (red, green = 0,7 V, blue/white/pink = about 2 up to 3 volts (!), extra bright stuff partly even more than 3 volts). Greetz again!

Certainly, ALPS offers the whole pallette of switches/pots/encs whatever. The only question is, where to get it, as there are not to many distributors. Just search, google, ebay and so on. You might want to check out what ALPS has to offer: www.alps.com

I really don´t know the big point at this problem. Just do the following: Instead of one LED: R_LED = (UV-U_LED)/I_LED = (5V-0,7V)/20mA = 215 Ohm = 220 Ohm put two LEDs in row (!) and lower the resistor on the DOUT module: R_LED = (UV-2*U_LED)/I_LED = (5V-1,4V)/20mA = 180 Ohm That´s it, the same for more LEDs (3 LEDs in row 150 Ohm and so on). Greetz! :)

Only one from my side: ALPS! Aaaand: ALPS! That´s my opinion after some years of DIY (I did NOT try P&G up to now - as I´m totally addicted to ALPS in the meantime). The best price-feeling option you can get in my opinion.

Naaaaaaaaaaaaa, no problem at all. I know that for sure! Sometimes you´re sitting hours in front of the answer and don´t see it. That happens to me like every five minutes. ;) Greetz!

Ooooooooooooooooooooooh! ;D Would love to hear what´s coming out there. Unfortunately the sounds are not (yet?) online. Very nice piece!

Yeah, that's also some point. Ok, at least *some* chips will hopefully still be PLCC instead of TQFP (both AVR's and PIC's are offering PLCC-packaging stuff) so it still will be somewhat like DIY-compatible. I don't think that one day ALL will go to only-SMD stuff as the hobbyiest's market still has to be satisfied somehow (and I think they will!). I think I'll try AVR's as the DIY programming stuff is very cheap (appr. 5 Euros for a ISP module compatible to the AVR Studio software), there are LOTS of sample programs & projects out there (googled five minutes and found TONS of good stuff) and I already got some experience with C-programming AVR's (I went into robotics for a few months some time ago). *IF* it's bad anyhow I still can go back to PIC's - I will certainly not loose to much money and/or time.' I looked at those Parallax IC's you mentioned! Very interesting, only (for my stuff) the BIG drawback is that there's no ADC on there. Yes, you could put an external there, but that's again quite complicated I think. For "normal" apps the high speed is very interesting, hopefully they'll bring something out with some more stuff (RAM, ADC and so on). THNX to all! ;D Will let you know what's up (also planning a blog or somewhat like that for all that stuff).

:o :-X :o Now I've really got to say that I'm most astouned about that for real! I could have sweared that at least *somebody* recommends to stick with PIC's, but that's some clear anouncement there. ... wow ... Hmmm, ok, so I'll check out the AVR's the next days. I think I'll stick to the ATMega 32 first, just because it has DIP packaging and for my first tries enough memory (I want to try to bring the whole map of a GLCD into the memory if possible. That's 1024 byte for a 128x64 GLCD - so the 2048 RAM should be enough). I also hope to bring up the ADC sampling frequency by downgrading the ADC to a 7-bit resolution. *Mathematically* I should come out @ appr. 100 kHz sampling frequency, which should *just* be enough hopefully. Let's see. More suggestions? Would love to see some "beginners" HP's or DIY stuff with the ATMega's to get a bit more of a clue. Perhaps I'll also get one of those famous "butterflies" to get an idea what the AVR's are capable of. Let's see.

Hi there! I guess that's some religious question, isn't it? ;D For that reason I implemented a religious poll, too... ;) Following: I'm planning to do different projects, most of them require fairly high ADC rates and perhaps some complex programming. As I have little experience with the PIC ( ;D ;D ;D) I first thought I should stick to it, as the ADC rate is pretty high if maxed out (PIC16F appr. 50 kSamples/s possible, right?) and I won't have to learn THAT much more (still I'll be busy with that for a year, I think ;) ). On the other hand MANY DIY projects also use the AVR Mega Controllers as they are told to be easily programmable (Basic, Pascal, C, whatever) and the periphery is pretty inexpensive. Only the ADC rate is much lower (for highest 10 bit resolution appr. 15 kSamples/s). But as I only will need something around 7bit accuracy, I'm taking the advantage into account that I could make my programs within higher languages like C, so the programming effort would be brought down. Does ANYBODY have suggestions what the big differences are between PIC's and AVR's? What do you use besides MBHP-PIC's for your own projects and why? THNX in advance!

Eeeeeeeeeerrrrrrrrrrr... I just explained... See reply above. The LTC is connected to two different cores, it is NOT (as you might think) a part of the MBlink, it's more like lying parallel to it and copying just the defined In's and Out's. Just connect it like described and everyting should be ok.

I think the *new* boards from SmashTV already allow direct control of relais, so some controlling of electromagnets should be pretty easy. Check out the new boards, cause I don´t know for sure. Greetz!

The MUX=multiplexer has to be turned of if motorfaders are connected and *can* be turned of if less than 8 analoge inputs are used. So MUX=1 is ok. I agree with illogik. To go *really* sure, check both last edit dates (in Windows you´ve got to enable the details view for that) of both main.asm and the .syx files sended to the MB. If both is newer date (near to your edit ;) ) it´s your stuff normally. FIRST you have to save the main.asm BEFORE compiling it! Sometimes this is overseen, too. If you don´t you´ll compile the old stuff within MPLAB. Greetz!

You can do that on one LCD, onyl thing is following: MidiIn has to come from the first core (where the original MIDI In comes) and MidiOut has to come from the last core in the row (Link ending point). That´s all. So three pins (V+/GND/MI) come from the Midibox link starting point, one pin (MO) comes from the last core. *I think* ;D Greetz!

Anyway some very cool idea! Some USB-Stick feeling! Like it!!! 8)

Is the indication LED between +5/GND or something more like data line? So: DOES IT FLASH?!? ;D ;D ;D

Wart mal, wart mal, gehts um eine PC-Überwachung? Hört sich sehr ähnlich an und dazu sollte es MASSIG Stoff geben (siehe die MENGEN an DIY-PC-Tuning Pages). Google mal ausgiebig und guck dir verschiedene Sachen an, wie die das lösen. Musst ja nicht eine 1:1 Lösung finden, aber so kannst du schon mal einige Assemblerschnipsel finden, die du mit Sicherheit implementieren kannst. Ich bin mir 100 Pro sicher, daß du da massig Foren & Downloads findest! Abgesehen davon machst du das bisher schon sehr richtig: Erstmal alles nacheinander dediziert ausprobieren. LCD-Ansteuerung, dann Temp-Ausgabe, evtl NUR Lüftersteuerung + Knöpfe zum Anpassen usw und am SCHLUSS alles zusammenbringen. MIOS z.B. ist ja auch nicht an einem Tag enstanden, sondern innerhalb von Jahren. Guck dir mal TK´s allererste Projekte an und dann das, was daraus geworden ist. ;D

There should be some manufacturer on there. Just email them and ask for it. In 70% of all cases, they can give you what you need or at least give you some hint. People here can also only look on google, you know... Greetz!

TK, was denkst du? Von meiner Seite aus persönlicher Erfahrung mit dem 8051 Assembler: Die Lernkurve ist anfangs *extrem* hoch. Es gibt immer wieder Rückschläge, an die man nicht denkt. Der Vorteil: Assembler ist eine sehr kleine Sprache, d.h. du solltest mit derben Rückschlägen nur im ersten Jahr rechnen! Und der Rest ist dann Übung, guck dir mal TK an, wie er die Proggis wie NIX raushaut. ;) Ich bin jetzt auch dabei, ein paar Proggis mal selbst auf einem 16F877 zu realisieren und meine 8051er Zeit ist schon 4 Jahre her. Muss wieder von vorne anfangen und hab mir jetzt auch so ein geiles *absolut-anfänger* Buch gekauft, in dem alles haarklein erklärt wird. Glaub mir eins: Ein halbes Jahr brauchst du, um ein "Gefühl" zu kriegen, danach hast du´s raus und den Rest, den du lernst kommt sehr viel langsamer, da nicht wirklich sofort gebraucht (z.B. Interrupt-Programmierung brauchst ja bei deiner Anwendung noch nich). Bleib dran! :) :) MIOS? Möglich sicher. Sinnig?? Nix für ungut, aber: Ein ADC Pin plus eine Widerstandsdekade am RB oder Ähnliches, das müsste es sein, außer du willst noch alles am LCD ausgeben. MIOS dürfte hier die "Bazooka-auf-Reste-auf-dem-Teller" Lösung sein - kann mich aber auch volle Bulle irren, frach lieber mal TK. Gruß!

Row 3 & 6? ... ? ;D Look up in your main.asm. You´ll find a little table where you can adjust the offsets of all possible LCDs. High chances that there´s still the offsets for let´s say a 4x16 display in there. Greetz! :)