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pay_c

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Everything posted by pay_c

  1. Yeah, I would love to know about that USB buttons solution, too! About the design: So far so great! ;) Only a few things you could think about: - Important: You said you will build a 19" rack version. Will you also be using it as a rack version or more as a desk version (putting on some table somewhere)? This greatly changes the "best" positioning of the components. Especially as we talk about a equipment which should be used LIVE! :) As long as you'll take answering: The BIG point is to get the most important stuff as near to you as possible! Also some fails could be brought inside by putting e.g. important buttons directly over some fader. When hitting it roughly you *could* be able to touch the crossfader and fade the most important channel (just as an example). In your case I really don't know if those pots next to the faders won't bring in some potential for "Oooops, didn't wanna do that" situations. ;D For the parts: As you're using it live, please please please ONLY get the best stuff! Do NOT look on the price to much. In nearly all cases (meaning pots, encs, faders) I really can sugget ALPS. Very good prices for such high quality stuff. For the buttons you already have your solution (which is really great!). :) So far! Greetz!
  2. To only know if the multiplexer works out fine, I used this here: Clamp all analog input pins to ground except one "measuring" pin. This has to be left open up! If you now power on the MB should be sending Midi messages all the time. If you touch it with your finger (as you are yourself an antenna) it should even send much more! This way you don´t need the pots connected to get a first "functional" test up and running. If this test fails, something with your AIN or the interconnection to the core should be wrong. No, you don´t need all the multiplexer IC´s inserted. btw: Normally you want to have the pot connected like that: Pin1 - GND, Pin2 - AIN connection, Pin3 - 5 Volt (why? So at least some current is flowing and the Voltage is divided smoothly in the pot itself. If you have 5 volts on P1 and P3 there´s no current flowing and so you have two parallel 5kOhm resistances in front of your AIN input); but I think you already knew, right? ;) Greetz!
  3. I just can´t withstand to pop in and bring my picture in. ;D Sorry! I think the best way, voltage & current can be visualized is by water. Imagine that the voltage is the pressure with which the water comes out somewhere and the current as the water flow itself (to be exact, this is indeed the principle of the physical electron movement - the electrons are just water in this case). So: If your supply is not connected anywhere, that means the resistance is very very high, plugs are between the + / - pole. The current/flow is zero and the voltage/pressure is at max level. If a copper piece is between the both ends, the "water" can easily be transported to the other side - the voltage/pressure drops rapidly (depending on the goodness of your supply) and the water flow is very high. LEDs: LEDs are indeed something like copper pieces or "open water hoses". So if you connect them without anything else the current/flow will be maxed out to the highest Level and fry your LEDs. So you need some very small hose, so the water flow is slowed down before the LED/big water hose piece. These small pieces are called resistors. ;) The current/flow is stabilized and the voltage/pressure keeps at the max level of your supply (perhaps a *little* less). I JUST hope that this STUFF is not as CONFUSING as I could IMAGINE!!! If it is, just ignore me. ;) ;) Greetz!
  4. @poshpol: I have to agree with NorthernLightX. You said this is "kinda like a poll" for everyone here. If you restrict this topic, it is nor for everyone anyhow...
  5. Ooooops! Didn´t know that, sorry! ;D New design? 8) Looking forward! (MBPSU coming up ;D ;D ;D - really good work NorthernLightX!!!)
  6. Hi NorthenLightX! Just two small things: Did you only use the top layer as routing? Normally you would use the bottom layer for that, but doesn´t matter to much. Open up the manual for Eagle and search for "Copper fill" - that´s the thing for filling up the empty spaces with the GND. Also, the GND should be on the same side on all connections - but that´s also just a very small thingy. :) Greetz!
  7. Ok, so you already got the point! Cool! ;D Aaaaaaah! THERE´s the scrollbar! CEWL! ;) So i totally agree. Just some minor errors/suggestions/whatever: - I can´t read the negative voltage regulator - it´s a 7912, right? - you really don´t want to use 10 mF caps, right? Those will be F****ING huge! ;D ;) Meant 10uF, right? - I think 1000 Ohm for the LED is a little much @5 volts, 220 Ohms would be better for a "normal" LED. Unless you´re using a low-current LED? And just as a small hint: Go through the Eagle tutorial shortly! It´s really worth the time! E.g. u can rip up all those GND-wires by using the grounding symbol (wrong-way T-like thingy) and so keep the schematic a bit easier to understand. Good luck & much of fun with the PCB (I dooo like etching) & greetz! :)
  8. Hi there! Do I see that wrong? The schematic is only partly visible. The right side is cutted away somehow... fix? In most apps (W/O LC or motorfaders!!) the current load won´t even succeed 1A pretty sure. If you´re going for bigger stuff with one than one core you´re probably able to go above the 1A mark, but normally a wallplug with 500 mA is enough (the BIG sucker still is the LCD with up to 300 mA). So the 1,25A Trafo should be enough, too. The LC will suck a lot more and many people already built their own PSU´s for that. I also built a few PSU´s, but after a while I recognized that it´s not worth the work. I do NOT want to bring down your work in any part (!!!). But normally you can power a MB with a 9V/1A wallplug very well and they cost appr. the same as the trafo alone would cost... Just as a small sidehint to think twice before building the PSU by yourself. On the other hand it´s TOTALLY something else if you need symmetric voltages (-12/GND/+12). There are nearly no wallplugs for that and you are better of with building them by yourself (so your schematic just shows the right stuff!). So: Where´s the PCB? ;D ;D ;D ;) Thnx and greetz!
  9. Works! ;D (at last) So, I gotta print it out as a .pdf or so, just to be able to adjust the positioning of those PCBs percisely. THNX again, Jidis and greetz!
  10. Yepp, you can directly do that on the box. Greets!
  11. 1- yupp, also with the LCD but NO backlight (!) 2- http://www.avishowtech.com/midibox/wiki/index.php?pagename=Question%20and%20Answers (most stuff can be found on the wiki - just look around a little bit to know what´s there) Short & clear, hope that helps! :) Greets!
  12. Good news: Your enc most probably works out very well! Most possible: Did you ever look up what´s your controller parameters? I guess it´s sending "Increment/Decrement" messages. If you want it sending 0-127 values in a row, you have to set it to "absolute" behaviour under Enc mode. Greetz!
  13. To say it like that: P H E W ! ! ! Yupp, really some long-*** post! Thanks for that looong hint! I´ll try that as soon as possible. Yupp, I also know the most problems you stated out and I just agree. Anyhow, I really don´t think many people will read that now, as the topic title doesn´t say much about that. Maybe you wanna open up a new thread somewhere (Miscellanous or similar?)and really make it an "Eagle discussion" thread? What do you say (shortly ;) ;) ;D)? Thnx & Greets!
  14. Most often you can use the LCD schematic from UCApps.de. If it does not function, try using it the other way around (meaning just rotate the cable by 180°). In 80% the LCD should work the one or the other way. Anyhow, I have no idea about the adjustable resistor. Just try the middle position first and then adjust it if needed. Greets!
  15. Ooookaaaay, at least it´s clear now that I AM stupid anyhow... Check this: Options / Settings / Misc / Display mode / real Who the *"!$§"* should come there without searching for hours? That´s the point, where the holes are shown or not. *rollingeyes* I do have NO idea, why that was not activated @my version, but hey, whatever. So, I´ve got holes now, but they´re partly overpasted by the bottom layer (blue layer), which I naturally need for printing. How do I get those holes free at last (not that I already searched for a possibilty for a few hours again...)? Hope that Eagle stops doing this not-to-cewl stuff after that... :P
  16. Nojo, ist halt eher subjektiv, ne? Hast du irgendeine Möglichkeit, den abgespielten Sound mal hochzuladen? Wie krass ist es denn?
  17. PLS DO search before posting!! :P http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp_usb.html Anyhow: I really recommend to buy a device (whatever USB2Midi Interface - Midiman or similar) as you won´t save soooo much money anyhow by building this on your own and second it´s kind of a medium to hard DIY project cause of the SMD-Microcontroller and the needed programming of the 24LC IC. Greets!
  18. Ok, I´ll first try out the non-SP2 version of the newest Eagle and if this does not work either, I´ll switch to .11/.12 or whatever. Just hope that functions. We gotta have to put the PCB´s "ready for printing" somewhere. The links on the portal are broken and the same work is done by every single one here, who makes the PCB´s by himself... :P I´ll talk to TK about that and let you know if the new (in the meaning of old) Eagle versions work out. Greetz and Thnx!
  19. Yupp, like I said, I tried both to activate and deactivate Via and Pad layers (beside every other layer, too). I tried core_v2 and the picburner boards. Both wont show me any holes. :-\
  20. Hi there! Maybe you already ran into the same topic, but perhaps it´s also me being stupid... ;D I just got the new versiond of Eagle (4.16) as freeware and tried to open different .brd files. Then something strange happens: ALL the holes of the vias and the pads disappeared! ??? ??? ??? What the? Tried to activate / deactivate different or all layers, but nothing get´s better. What´s up now? Wanna do my PCB! :'( Somebody knows what´s up?
  21. To be honest the last device I programmed was a 8051 one from Siemens (NOT Infineon - right). So that´s quite some time ago. I gotta get back to that and this can take a while. But as I really got many ideas and 80% of them are only functional with a microcontroller, this is a real BIG point for me. As soon as there are updates, I´ll let you know (can take a while anyhow). Greetz!
  22. Hm, hast du schon mal an einen Midibox Link gedacht? Guck mal hier:http://www.ucapps.de/midibox_link.html Brauchst halt zwei Cores, macht ja nüx, hoff ich. Solange du ein festen Patch benutzt (und das hört sich ja danach an) sollte es der Funktionalität überhaupt keinen Abbruch tun. Gruß!
  23. Good news! I just got to know that the whole tuochpad programm was written in Protel Basic up to now!! That means when you go back to pure assembler there are high chances that the time for scanning the matrix will be much less (even with a multiplexer)! Cewl! So: "LED Touchpad" attached to the "ToDo" list. ;D
  24. Hi there! Found two interesting links on low-cost but anyhow good-working Etcher and Exposer for PCBs. Unfortunately the texts are in german, but I think the pictures are saying the most stuff anyhow. btw: I found that some time ago while experimenting with small roboters (but I discontinued that meanwhile - just no time!), but forgot that again somehow. Anyway: Low-cost PCB exposer using parts out of (!!) bank note testers (!!): http://www.pixelklecks.de/1f40e2973f0cb1401/1f40e2973f0de5381/index.html and the low-cost Etcher using a (NOW HOLD ON!!!) old coffee-machine (BELIEVE IT OR NOT - IT WORKS!!): http://www.pixelklecks.de/1f40e2973f0cb1401/1f40e2973f0df268b/index.html Just click the pics to have an idea what´s going on. For all those people (like me) who do not want to spend 100 Euros for a Etcher and even more for a *good* Exposer and anyway do not want to step to something like the ironing method or similar. Just as a sidekick also found on the upper page: You CAN print PCB designs on a normal inkjet-printer, the most (not all!) printers will block the UV-light. But you should use half-transparent paper instead of foil (the same paper used in school for redrawing technical constructions with ink). With using this paper on a normal deskjet or similar you *should* be able to have the same PCB-results as with a laser-printer as the paper will help to increase the UV-contrast (90% chance anyhow - depends mainly on the printer and especially it´s ink). Greetz!
  25. Ok! Found the stuff & everything is wonderful! THNX! ;D Will get it here, I think: www.conelek.de They look pretty ok.
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