nILS

Interesting to see how the forum-downtime correlates to massive activity in the chat :thumbsup: Now, the forum is back, but you people are still welcome to drop by and say hi! :D

Welcome aboard, ChrisL! :flowers: What you want to do is read a lot :) http://ucapps.de/ will give you an overview over the modules that are available. There's also a neat introduction in the WIKI: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=introduction_to_ucapps.de Read through as much info as you can and right before your head starts smoking - ask :) The more detailed your questions are the more precise the answer will be!

First (again)!

[x] POIDH

Ja, dass das ein Sketch war hab ich vermutet, aber sicher ist sicher ;) 17 Fader + 33 Potis = 50 inputs = 2x AINx4 32 Taster = 32 inputs = 1x DINx4 23 LEDS = 23 outputs = 1x DOUTx4 Solltest Du statt Potis Drehimpulsgeber wollen würde das so aussehen: 17 Fader = 17 inputs = 1x AINx4 32 Taster + 33 Encoder = 98 (32 + 2 * 33) inputs = 4x DINx4 (wobei beim 4. nur 2 inputs benutzt werden, da könnte man statt dessen J5 nehmen) 23 LEDS = 23 outputs = 1x DOUTx4

Es wäre deutlich einfacher wenn Du uns verrätst, welches runde Loch was ist ;) Bspw. bei den Fadern ist schwer zu sagen, ob das drunter oder drüber Taster oder die Befestigungen der Fader sein sollen. Idealerweise machst Du eine List, in etwa so: 8 Fader 13 Taster 34 LEDs, ... Mir scheint das Layout an einigen Stellen deutlich enger als möglich. Zum Beispiel bin ich mir nicht sicher, ob die Taster(?) so nah ans LCD können, selbiges bei den Fadern. Außerdem sind die Fader recht nah am Rand der Kiste, das dürfte reichlich eng werden.

Okay, a shot in the dark here: Are the voltage regulators mounted? Is the power supply plugged into the wall? Is the other end of the power supply plugged into the sammich? Is the power switch mounted? Is the power switch turned on?

1) If you can solder (if you can't it's easy to learn), are willing to spend lotsa time reading, you are qualified. 2) Yes, you can build everything without premade PCBs. You can use veroboard/stripboard/etch at home... That is cheaper but a lot more work and a lot more error prone. 3) Yes, a lot usb midi devices will work. Check the blacklist on the WIKI to see which ones are known to not work, so you can avoid those.

Whee, Juan, welcome aboard! Calm down a bit, Fozzy wasn't attacking you he just kindly pointed out that hijacking isn't the coolest thing to do, and he did so after he answered your question. From your question it was neither obvious that you read anything nor that you live in Argentina and have difficulties getting the parts. Fozzy answered your question as correctly and nicely as possible with the given information. I took the liberty to split off this part of the thread.

Since when does "ego" start with a "p"? :tongue:

Happy B-Day BeanMan and TinyMan aka sineSurfer and Cimo!

This is the one a few of us are using (works well): http://midibox.org/forums/index.php?app=core&module=attach&section=attach&attach_re_module=post&attach_id=6707

Wenn nicht, einfach melden - idealerweise auch mal im Chat vorbeischauen, da geht sowas meistens schneller :)

Moved from "MIDIbox HUIs". That was kinda the wrong forum, eh? :tongue:

There's a silent version of the MEC 3F as well.

...aber Du hast es sogar ohne Fragen geschafft ;) Damit bist Du schon mal weiter so manch anderer. Fang doch einfach zum Üben mit dem ProgramChange an: Um einfach nur ProgramChanges zu senden sind das über den Daumen gepeilt 10 Zeilen Quelltext. Am besten einfach die C-Skeleton app nehmen und eine variable deklarieren und null setzen und bei DIN_NotifyToggle toggle je nach Pin eben erhöhen oder verringern und dann per MIDI senden :) Schon hast Du eine ProgramChange Anwendung :D

Was bringt Dich zu dem Schluss, dass dem nicht so ist? Na klar, mit ein bissel programmieren ist das überhaupt kein Ding.

The only thing you could possibly be measuring *across* a fuse would be erm, I guess the voltage drop across the fuse. Definitely not the voltage of the rail though.

A little clarification on the gm5: It's a little chip that has a USB interface and 5 MIDI I/Os, so it's a great midi interface for any PC. And since it's cheap and small you can even put it inside any midibox and have USB instead of MIDI. I'd personally prefer using it as a standalone midi interface - that way you can use the mbSID w/o a PC, which obviously with USB only you can't.

I think the word you're looking for is "detented" :) Yes. Yes, but. The push switch will work just like any other button, but it also comes with the risk of moving the encoder while pushing the button - I've never had problems with that but iirc some people did accidentally move the encoders while trying to only push the button. Yes, although the question is if they're in a good position to do the job. With a smart layout I'm pretty sure it'll work nicely. What exactly are you looking for? An electronics CAD program like Eagle, Kicad and the likes to design PCBs or just general info on how to do it on veroboard? Yes, they will work. DIN: 20 encoders = 40 inputs, 20 encoder buttons = 20 input pins ---> 60 inputs ie two DINx4 (max. 64 inputs) AIN: 30 pots = 30 input --> one AINx4 (max. 32 inputs) DOUT: no leds? See 6/ :) After the rest of your post I am pretty sure you mean pots not encoders. See 6/ edit: Grrrr, the forum got stuck while trying to submit my post and now phunk beat me. :angry: Need to work on my speed skillz :shifty:

Welcome aboard Pyotr! :flowers: The modular approach isn't necessarily easier to fit into the case, but it comes with lotsa other advantages: 1) It's modular. You can upgrade your system step by step. That means, SMALL steps which are easier than one giant leap (teehee) and it also means smaller amounts of money at a time (buy the next upgrade when you got some cash) 2) Since you'll be connecting the modules yourself, chances are you'll get a far greater understanding of what does what. That's crucial if you run into some problems (which you most likely will at some point) 3) If you decide that 2 sids was actually enough after you've built the next core - you can just use it for some other cool project :)

I deleted the other (identical) thread. If one of your SIDs works in both sockets and the other doesn't work in either one - one of them is dead. If your seller is reliable he'll probably replace the broken one - unless you broke it :ahappy: Shift-combos/Documentation: the sammichSID is a regular MIDIbox SID v2, so the MIDIbox SID v2 user manual is what you're looking for.

Nope. That should only happen when you hold shift(?) at startup - something is wrong.

You can use 2 9V batteries. Simply connect them like this: // +9V GND -9V // | ____|____ | // | | | | // _[+]___[-]_ _[+]___[-]_ // | | | | // | | | | // | | | | // | | | | // | | | | // | | | | // | | | | // '-----------' '-----------'[/code]

Troubleshooting the whole thing is a lot harder than testing the individual parts. Start by disconnection everything. First, check the PSU - measure all voltages, add some dummy loads (~7 LEDs in series for a 12V rail for instance), if everything checks out, move on to the core. Connect it to the PSU, check voltages, upload something, all good? Move on to the DIN chain. Hook up the DIN chain to the core use the ain64_din128_dout128_v2c app to see if all inputs are working. If that checks out move on to the DOUT chain with the same app. If that works, disconnect DIN/DOUT again and hook up the OPL3 module and see if you can control it and everything sounds fine. If that works, hook up the CS again.