nILS

Da verbindest Du beim ziehen des Steckers wohl was, was nicht aneinander gehört. Vermutlich 5V und Masse ;) Nimmm eine geschaltete Stereo-Klinkenbuchse. Tip = 5V, Ring = Signal, Sleeve = Masse. Lege den Schalter des Ring auf Masse. Dann ist ohne Kabel in der Buchse automatisch 0 und da 5V an der Tip liegen gibt's keinen Kurzen beim Reinstecken/Rausziehen.

Unless you really know how to tame the autorouter (correct net functions, DRC per net, etc) it'll always be worse than what you manually do. Some random things: 90° bends on HF lines are horribly bad, cause they lead to reflections. Generally more copper is better - 10mil traces around areas that are exposed to physical pain caused by pads being constantly hammered down on them is probably not the best thing to do. Overall, you (should) know more about the PCB and what does what than the autorouter. You can make sure HF lines aren't going all over the board just to save one via, ... Last and least - autorouted stuff is a pain to look at. Also, as opposed to ground planes, power planes aren't all that common. I personally dislike them cause a single, small scratch pretty much always exposes V+. And in my imagination, it basically turns the entire board into a capacitor :yes:

It isn't. It seems to be what the average boxer is spending on a noisy switchmode PSU though ;) And you can pretty much pick any off the shelf $50+ puter PSU and get some really nice heavy noise.

Not that hard. The headers for the DIN/DOUT chain are available on the PCB. So you could either just bring those out and add another box with some controls, or attach another core that acts as a controller (involves some coding) ;)

Correct, but certainly not the $5-15 ones you get at pretty much any store, right? :yes:

Yes. Don't use the autorouter. Ever. Unless you are one of the 3 people who tamed it. Until you have: Don't use the auto router. Have I mentioned not to use the autorouter? Oh and one last thing - don't use the auto router.

Yes. Check setup_sammich_sid.asm: ;; sammichSID buttons (SR#, Pin#) are F1=1,3 F2=1,2 F3=1,1 ... DIN_ENTRY CS_MENU_BUTTON_Arp, 1, 1 ; enables/disables the arpeggiator of *all* oscillators DIN_ENTRY CS_MENU_BUTTON_Knob, 1, 2 ; changes to knob menu ... DIN_ENTRY CS_MENU_BUTTON_Play, 1, 3 ; direct access to play function [/code]

Hey, no hurry :) This here is fun, not work! I just really like the idea of having a noiseless switchmode option - a lot of people have been looking for that! :thumbsup:

Double post deleted. Asking once is enough.

You can simply lift the PSU part of the core module (schem on ucapps.de). You can leave out the bypass caps, if you want to, as a battery is pretty much as stable as it gets: 9V - 7805 - 5V

Hehe, too late to respond, but anyways: Regulating 10.5V to 9V with a 7809 is too tight. The regulator needs some Volts to burn. Also the fact that the voltage drops with all 8 SIDs (= more current consumption) usually indicates that the PSU can't deliver enough current, which (following Ohm's law) causes a voltage drop. Now you get no noise from the switching supply? Switchers tend to be really noisy, if you found one that's quiet - woohoo! Can we have a sound sample with the new PSU, please?

You can easily run a core module off USB power. If there's not purrty LEDs or LCDs the MIDIbox pulls next to no current. You don't need a full core module for that - most of the board is just headers anyway. This shows the mininum requirements for a the midi filter. If you don't feel like writing asm, you can always replace the PIC with one that supports MIOS (18F452, 18F4685, ..) and write the app in C using the MIOS skeleton. Then it's really just a matter of ~20 lines of code.

Seems like you just discovered modular synths ;) Pick the modules you want, put them on a single PCB, pre-route the signal path if you don't want to bother with cables all the time, control the whole thing from a MIDIbox CV (with some possible code changes) - done :) THat's pretty much what my modular does. For some more interesting and simple modules you might want to check out yusynth.net.

* nILS polishes his crystal ball The answer is "17". This could be anything. A single dead component to massive problems... If you think it's a bargain, get it, try to fix it, if you can't - sell it again :)

Eagle compatibility is pretty easy to achieve, since eagle has really nice scripting support. You can basically export schems/boards to any format you like(/script) :)

A sample of the noise might help us to identify where it's coming from ;)

Hehe, I've never removed anything the size of an stm32... But I assume *giggle* it's a piece of cake! :thumbsup:

Maybe you turned the contrast pot? Or maybe I am completely off with my guess. But simply updating MIOS won't kill an LCD.

No. You killed your VFD by feeding a DC voltage into a data pin - which is a fairly common way of killing displays.

Doable, yes. AIN resolution high enough, yes. Useful, dunno (sample rate).

When you get the cards, please list them here -> http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=soundcards_with_ymf262_and_or_yac512_chips

Odd, you must have the same voices as me! :hug:

What makes this kit so awesome is Wilba-OCD :yes:

I do. If you randomly put jumpers on a PCB, chances are it's not gonna work :yes:

Necro bump = You ressurected a 5-year old thread to post something semi-unrelated ;) http://midibox.org/forums/index.php?/forum/43-midibox-blm/