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nILS

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Everything posted by nILS

  1. Glad you got it working! Did you try reuploading MIOS to the pic? A corrupt upload can basically do pretty much anything :)
  2. Good to hear your order is on route! I saw the other thread about the interface first, and apparently you've already found the blacklist :) You can easily just use some wire between the gm5x5x5 and the core module - in case you can't get a hold of the sockets soonish.
  3. I can't really answer that question but at least it's one of the interfaces known to cause trouble (see http://midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=midi_interface_blacklist)
  4. Rejoice, they are still being sold.
  5. Check the shipping status page at http://www.avishowtech.com/mbhp/status.html - if you don't find yourself on there and it's been "a couple of months" since you ordered do the following: - check if you have really really paid - forgetting that happens to the best of us ;) - check your spam filter/eMails for any eMails from Smash, where he might have a question or the likes - if nothing helps - drop by in the chat or write him a PM or eMail and ask nicely :)
  6. Ahaha, how cool is that! Thanks a lot, I got it working already, but now I know WHY :)
  7. <broken-record>offsite doco bad</broken-record>
  8. fixed another 25 bugs in the kaffe - MIOS Emulation ftw

  9. *cough* :) Heya MTE! :flowers:
  10. Luck + Online translation + Modular Synth = I made the pic for a german forum, so excuse the german labels :) (Masse = ground, von hinten = viewed from the back)
  11. I've got a little problem with my bike's rev meter - the connections are labelled in Japanese. Can anyone help me identify what those 3 connections are? They should be something like +12V, Ground and Signal In - but which is which? Thanks!
  12. If you want boards - add yourself to the list in the WIKI. Then wait :)
  13. I doubt it'll be an easy operation. The pots are most likely mounted on a pcb. So, to keep the rest intact, you'll have to carefully remove a part of the pcb (or at least kill some tracks), and somehow fit the encoders and a core and din module in there. After that you'd be looking at merging the two individual midi outputs...
  14. nILS

    XB111

    Seppo, Du Faulpelz: http://www.xb111.de/xb111_doc_de/xb_fs.html :yes:
  15. From the album: nILS' stuff

    kaffeSEQ Prototype Evo II :thumbsup:

    © &copy; 2010 nILS Podewski

  16. There IS a difference between different cap types, yes. It's not necessarily a cheap vs. expensive thing though. Most stuff you can read about on audiophile forums and the likes is only reproducable while wearing a tinfoil hat AND having all gold-plated sockets and cables AND having correctly aligned your stereo to the moon phases though. :rolleyes:
  17. C programming skills won't really help you, as mbSID v2 is written in asm :yes: The howTo is the one I was referring to, yes. IIRC you can just set the SR to 0 for the entries you don't need. If that doesn't work simply pick a number for the SR that is higher than the actual number of SRs you have. Ie if you have a DINx4 (with 4 SRs) use sth like 5 or 12 or whatever you like. This might not be the most elegant solution but it's certainly the easiest :)
  18. You'll have troubles finding resistors that won't work :flowers: If you like wearing tinfoil hats and are scared of your own shadow you might wanna use those to be on the safe side: :whistle:
  19. Short answer: Yes. Somewhat longer answer: Yes, you'll need to assign the additional encoders in the source code (the WIKI has a nice howto about how to do that). Another hint: You might wanna take a look at the "knobs" feature in mbSID v2 :)
  20. Any 74HC165 will do :-) Which means reichelt, conrad, mouser, rs, digikey, ... all have them.
  21. There's roughly 30 spares but I won't be able to send any out this week since I am not at home. Just sign up and I'll send you a confirmation at some point next weekish.
  22. Happy B-Day Mr. NiceGuy! :hug: :cheer::laugh: :santa: :wacko: :flowers: :console: :thumbsup: :frantics:
  23. Nope, that's well within spec ;)
  24. Get a 1.3mm drill and off you go. Do you already have the switches? Cause sometimes the pins aren't really quite as big as it says in the datasheet.
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