nILS

Jesus christ, you people. Calm down. What the hell. PimpinBassie, we've seen lotsa fake/remarked SIDs lately and while Schrittmachers question may not have been phrased in the most careful way, your response was completely uncalled for. A simple "I pulled them myself from a working C64" would have sufficed.

*yawn*

Whee, knobs :D Hope your personal life will get back to what it's supposed to be soon!

Switch: Either use google "salecom t80-r" (the second hit is the salecom page with the detailed product description) or your multimeter in continuity (beep) mode. Both ways will work just fine. 7809: Depends on what you consider to be left. Again, google has the answer right away: http://www.datasheetpro.com/334996_download_ST7809_datasheet.html Physical connections: Plugs always help. Soldering wires directly to modules is not really the best thing to do in most cases. Makes fixing stuff a lot harder. With crimp connectors you usually just put one lead into one hole. Two of the pins on the LED are connected to the same thing, so technically it's just two connections.

IIRC Mike only burns the bootloader. If not and he only gets one upload request - woohoo! ;D

If it's only sending it ONCE then it's all good, MIOS does that at boot up. If it sends it constantly (every 2 seconds) then you uploaded the wrong file. "with old mios" means you already have a MIOS on the PIC. Which you don't, which means you need to upload the other .hex file from the same folder ;)

This topic has been moved to MIDIbox SID. [iurl]http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=11762.0[/iurl]

This topic has been moved to Design Concepts. [iurl]http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=13957.0[/iurl]

In this case it's the body diameter.

While the voltages that's dissipated is constant no matter what you hook up to the core, the current isn't. And the heat is voltage * current. More current (LCD, ...) more heat. 16V is too much for the core input. It's okay for the SID (6581 version) module, which has a 7812 needing 15-17V input.

AU - "Gooooo tigers!"

MCLR @ 4.53V is okay, the 4.93V is okay as well. Measuring current is easy, just use your multimeter parallel to the input (disconnect one of the supply wires that go into the core and bridge it with you multimeter in current mode). 500mA is okay as well, your problem is the 16.34V you feed the 7805. The vreg needs ~7.5-10V, all the "extra volts" are turned into heat. 16V - 5V = 11V that the vreg needs to dissipate. Get a new PSU with 7.5V - 10V and the heat problem will be solved.

Hehe, eigentlich sollte das ein & sein. Ich war als ich gefragt wurde grad am programmieren - allerdings nicht in C... Und in Object Pascal ist es ein @ ;D

With some additional magic and coding nearly nothing is impossible, it's merely a question of "is it really worth the trouble?" - most of the time using an additional core will be the easier solution.

How can wood sides be too thick? They can't. Simple beautiful! Nice work ;D

Lemme first answer to clem's answers ;) I am sure he means CV, as that's what he explicitly asked for MIDI-to-CV (midiboxCV) ;) That's the thing. A modular synthesizer doesn't really have a protocol. It has knobs and it has patch cables. ...with the right software ;) Correct, tricky... but doable. Well kinda. You can obviously not [with decent effort] control all the tuning trim pots in a VCO, but you could "adjust" the "finetune pot". Astronom: What you are describing here is a very, very complex idea. To save patches of a big modular system (16 VCOs is a pretty fargin big one) you'd need a very elaborate system. It would need a gigantic digitally controlled routing matrix (virtual cables), to save "presets". So the simple answer is: While technically/hypothetically possible, no, you can't really control the entire modular and save patches, unless you are very very good with electronics and have a lot, and I do mean a lot, of disposable cash. I think you should dive in and read up on modulars a bit more, that should answer most of your questions.

I am officially out of PCBs, the last few people who signed up for spares will be invoiced this week. As there's a bunch of gm5s coming in very soon, it's time to sign up for order #2. Since I want to try to keep the price as low, I won't be ordering until there's enough preorders.

who's dead.

Good luck, you guys!

Those buttons are awfully close to the LCD - sure that's gonna fit? Good luck with the soldering! ;D

The forum search (really handy ya know) answers a query for "more than 64 pots" with http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,8526.0.html Also that's the info on http://ucapps.de/midibox64.html

You just need to change the config jumpers like TK said. Look at this again, especially the config table: http://ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_usb_gm5.pdf You have them set to "110" - "I only" You need to set them to "000" - "5 IO" per board. "0" being a connection and "1" being no connection. Which means you need to fix the two traces you've broken.

Hooray for the atomic boyscout!

I just bought 50 of those. They're nice. And they come in lots of diameters from 16mm upwards. I am using those (with a shiney alu cap instead of the red one) on pretty much all my fx pedals and my avrSyn. They're pretty and at 19mm mix with the moog style 16mm knobs nicely ;D

If you're still undecided give the Alpha 16mm pots a shot - I have grown to love em.