arumblack

Please share if you get this working, I have thought this would be useful in the past, but have no time to work on it currently. Also, you could look at modifying the IIC MIDI firmware to be an IIC Serial port, could be useful for those who need to control mopre than one serial device, and I think it is hinted somewhwere on the IIC MIDI page that this is possible, but it needs development. Anyway, it's a good idea and makes MIDIbox even more flexible. FYI: my interest in this is to build a transport controller for the DV decks I use at work, amongst others. Thanks! AB

That's what I was getting at...... Glad you got it working.

The 5 and 9 volts should add to 14 when wired as per the schematic. How are you checking the voltage? don't be afraid to hook up your modules without the IC's stuffed, and check the power pins for the proper voltage. You could safely use a 7809 on the sid board instead of a 7812, to get the nine volts you need. You may need a heatsink on it (it will be dropping 5 volts as heat). If you are careful you may be able to just use the single 7809 on the optimized psu, but i think the wiring will need to be different, because of the way the 5 and 9 volts are added to get 14, and you wouldn't want to do that to only get 9. If you don't have a clue what I'm talking about, just put the 7809 on the sid module(s) and be done with it. That's what I did on my first sid. (I am using my own powersupply for my MB6582). Hope I'm not confusing you further.

REspect to me? That wasn't me in that video. I've begun practicing the technique and I got all kinds of bridges. good thing I have lots of junk boards at work to practice on, just heatem up with a heat gun and tap against the table, then the chips just jump right off. This technique is not recomended if you actually want to reuse the chips though. and clean the board real good, that has a major affect on the outcome. I am going to try liquid flux next time instead of paste. This guy here has some mad skillz and the comments give away what is not explicit in the video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4V7tBPsECjc He uses liquid flux. watch his other videos as well and drool over his workstation. As for all those smt resistors and such.....you could try the Frying pan reflow method..... I hand soldered my MBFM chips yesterday (point to point technique) and it came out OK, but by no means a work of art. not bad for my third attempt at SMD soldering.

The SSM's may be obsolete (not sure, but mouser doesn't have them), but the Burr-Brown, and THAT chips are still availible at mouser and are pin compatible (and better specs). I was going this road because I already have some chips. I would wonder how the discrete solution specs against the integrated ones? I could always look at doing both I suppose. No progress this weekend, I barbecued 1000 pieces of chicken on saturday, and on sunday I broke out my stereo zoom microscope to practice SMD soldering. Some progress this week perhaps, though as usual I am working on this, an MB-6582, an MBFM, and MBSEQ in parallel.

Got my boards yesterday. Thanks!

Perhaps the possibility to slice beats on the seq itself.....would require some sampling hardware though. well, at least sample playback hardware, I personally would have no problem only being able to import the samples from SD cards, with no recording. Longer patterns would be great also, already on your list. Touch screen ?

http://www.howardelectronics.com/jbc/dragsoldering.wmv Also some others on youtube, but I can't get there from work. search for Drag Solder. some guy does a huge QFP...Pretty cool actually Not saying the board is hand soldered, but it can be done.

Actually, you were meant not to go junkyard dog....I was trying to set an example of humility.

Ok, still waiting on SID parts but I breadboarded the output circuit today. works nicely. Tested with my Korg ES-1. Left channel through the converter to one input on m,y DELTA 1010 (balanced inputs). the right channel I plugged straight into the 1010, unbalanced, so it shorts the -VE side of the balance3d input to Ground. the results? The expected 6dB increase on the right channel (OK, i didn't measure, just recorded a few quick tracks into a stereo channel in Cubase). It had good clean signal, though I didn't do stringent testing, maybe later. Confirmed pin compatible parts from Burr-Brown(TI) and THAT Corp. so there will be options for other builders if anyone is interested. I have some of the Burr Brown balanced line receivers in my parts box so I will breadboard the input circuit next. UI'll let you know how it goes though I am expecting it to go much the same as this last test. will be a busy weekend though so I may not have anything this weekend.

I am currently working on a balanced I/O board http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php/topic,12149.0.html I was wondering if your schematic was available and how you have implemented your design., care to share, or too early? And as another thought related to the matrix... How hard would it be for the matrix to talk to MB Mixer so that if I had 16 inputs on the MB Mixer connected to 16 outputs of the matrix, the mb mixer would display what source was coming in from the matrix? this would then update if the matrix patch was switched? Could probably be done with SysEx? That would be a really slick level of integration. just a thought, And I'll say this: this matrix and the mbmixer interest me, but are far off on a list of projects to complete, so don't take any pains to implement this just for me, I'm just throwing it out b/c I thought that it would be cool.... Thanks

Very nice, I see you are simply using two inverting opamps for your balanced line driver. I am using 8580's which run at 9V OK It is the mb6582 base pcb from smash TV's webshop, which was mentioned in the second sentance of my opening post. I am using my own external supply that has +5V and +/-15V, inside the sid box i will be regulatimg down to +/-12V for use with seppomans ssm2044 filter board and AOUT modules, and +9 for my 8580 sids. However, the ssm2142/2143 can operate at up to +/-18V, so I was wanting to know if I gain any advantage in running them at a higher voltage than the SID? I am under the impression that this would allow me to take in a higher level of signal without clipping on the input side, but I am unsure wether I truly gain any advantage on the outputside. Wasn't thinking I'd ever need to hookup a condenser mic to my SID, but if there is interest in using the board for other purposes I could loook into it. I would then need to generate the 48V for phantom though. Thanks. As I said in my first post, I will know more once I have breadboarded the circuit.

Ok, so here's the Idea I am having. I want a Balanced I/O board for my MB sid V2 (using the base PCB of the MB6582) but it also could be suited for other uses MBFM, MBMixer, Standalone balanced/Unbalanced converter box, etc.... I am thinking of using the SSM2142 and 2143. Why, because I already have a tube of 2142's, also these are pin compatible with some other line drivers on the market (ones made By THAT Corp. , maybe others too). I have attached the datasheets below So Q's and thoughts: 1) Since I am already taking +/- 15V into my sid(EDIT here I am refering to the machine as a whole, not the SID module)to regulate down to +/-12V for AOUT and Seppoman's filter module, and +9 for the 8580 sid's I am using, should I supply the 2142/2143 with 15V? or is there no point when hooking up to the SID? of course I could leave the option for both, the chips will take up to +/-18V. 2) Do i need any sort of buffer between the 2143 (balanced line reciever) and the SID input? I was thinking I may need a pad or variable attenuator to deal with high input levels, will this be sufficiewnt to protect the input? 3) would anyone else be interested in this project when I am done? What else would you want to see on the board? 4) there is also a SSM2141 reciever, only difference is the gain. the 2143 is designed as a unity gain transmission path when used with the 2142. 5)Insert points for feedback/effects? how to best do this? leave them as unbalanced and take them before this board? 6) I was going to make one big 8 channel board, but for MBFM this would be overkill, of course components could be left out, I guess final board size will determine this. 7) I am going to breadboard the output part of this circuit as soon as I get some remaining parts for the MB SID. I don't have the reciever chips yet, waiting for feedback on #4 above before I decide which to order. Thanks all, Let mem know what you think. SSM2142[1].pdf SSM2143[1].pdf SSM2141[1].pdf

Thanks. Oh, and for StrydOne, before he see's this post..... I am an A#@ who should have used the forum search....... Kiddies, don't be like me or you too may have to admit your shortcomings..... Sorry

I would assume from the feel some sort of tact switch, but I never took mine apart so who knows. If it needs work I'd definitely try to get it dirt cheap. Oh yeah only two audio outputs on the thing if I recall and save files to floppy disk. I had fun with it but I never really liked the synth sounds only the drums were useable, didn't have hardly any other gear at the time so It lost it's thrill kinda quick. but it did have a cool sequencer and you should be able to get one for way less than the parts cost alone on a MBSEQ, let alone the labor. (MBSEQ is way cooler though)

I saw R80 on the opart list but try as I might I couldn't find it on the board. anyone with a quick It's next to the "PIc 4", or "sid 3" or "power swicth"???? Or is it reall not there? It was late but I looked for a good 20 minutes...... Thanks P.S. Smash TV comes through again...Great board, I'm glad I never finished my SID from years ago now... I bought all the SIDs long ago...

Sold mine for under$200, wish I hadn't. (Like every piece of gear I ever sold) Sequencer is good, internal sounds useable, not great. Get it for the sequencer, maybe even if you have an mbseq.....never too many groove boxes going at once eh? I wouldn't pay much more than $200 for it though.

Schweeeeet! Personally not my fav knobs, but they are nice. and all the cheap knobs are trash looking.....and even some expensive knobs look terrible. Who ever would have thought that a thing so utilitarian as a knob would be so much trouble. So I will be ordering some of these when you get the bulk order up.

Agreed, as long as there is some space for user comments such as " I built this one and it is great, thanks" or "I found this error, watch out" As it is, at least on the ucapps.de site you know it has been tested and built by many. Still a good Idea though, and possibly expand to include front panels and libraries for EAGLE/KiCAD

I'll check this out, though I don't know if I can improve it much. Thanks.

Thanks.

Smash you are the man, and Wilba too! I ordered a Base PCB this morning, I want to put Seppomans filters in so I haven't decided to order The CS yet or not. I know I will need a bigger case, but I could maybe still order the CS later. what is the availibility going to be like? Thanks again guys!

Looking for Libraries with Midibox parts. Anybody got some they want to share? I have tried to make some of my own, with some limited success, but it is time consuming. I actually found an Eagle to KiCad converter ULP (haven't tried it yet) on the cadsoft.de website, maybe I should make them in eagle and convert? I really need the unlimited board size of KiCad, but am so much faster in EAGLE...... KiCad is a slow learner for me some things are really wierd at first, like rotating a part after it has been set, I kept trying to pick up the part and rotate it, but all you need to do is hover the mouse over it and press R. Actually sensible, but very different than anything else I have used......

Any body have a board layout for the AOUT Module (original, MAX525 based version) with the Bipolar option. Or correct me if I am wrong, the layout here http://www.ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_aout_v1.brd does not seem to have it on the board. Just wanted to know before I make my own. Thanks!

You could perhaps write software to do something with such a hacked keyboard, but as mentioned above, you most likely would not be able to turn more than one knob at once, making such a project pointless and time consuming. Use MIOS and MIDIBOX instead, that's what it was designed for. Stick around , read ucapps.de. Start with the MB64E.