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And the hihat's straignht from the clock pulse, or every other clock pulse. Fortunately the trigger lines all have juper wires i can just desolder them to interface the new system. I think I could just use a Monostable multivibrator triggered by the DOUT to create the pulse. Or would it be possible to directly generate the pulse from the DOUT via mios? (The voltage level could be changed by the resistor on the Dout if neccesary).

I have been planning to do something else along those lines. I have a Boss dr-55That I plan to mod and the sequencer sucks so I was just going to make a Midi to trigger interface. Then you could use it from any sequencer, which for me would be my Korg ES-1, and replaced with MB seq once I build one and the drum mode is implemented. Anyway, I was thinking that I should be able to trigger the DR-55 From a DOUT( possibly needing to go through some proccessing to match the DR-55 Trigger)Using the MidiIO 128 firmware, and perhaps something more complex later on, which thanks to the flexibility of mios wouldn't need hardware changes, except to add more features, like midi control of drum parameters. Then I thought I would build some more circuits to add to it, My own modular drum synth. Anyway I think It should not require much programming. Different modules may need a different trigger, but i would think some sort of pulse would be most common. Any one know for sure?

Nice idea using the keyboard bracket to mount the front panel knobs and stuff. Good work.

the tip seems comparable to the Hakko I use at work (different model station). I think it would be a good fit, but didn't have them side by side to say for sure.

Thanks Smash, I'll give it a try. @ dr.Bunsen. Yes it should be possible to build one pair at a time. at this rate it may be a while umtil I'm even ready to prototype the board. I try to work on it when I can. I think I could finnish easily with a two sided board, but I am trying to stay on one side for now, so ppl can make thier own boards. If someone wanted to stock the board that would be fine by me, but I would want to do much testing first. thanks all.

I think I may use some SMD's to save board space. I think most people could solder SMD resistors and caps ok. They would be on the copper side of the board so maybe it will save some space. If nothing else they are smaller than their through-hole counterparts. I wonder, can I route traces underneath them? I don't see why not. I will try to play around with this some next week, hopefully I can find the time.

Thanks for the congrats! I have no degree *yet* I am working on it. Fortunately it is a school system, so they understand the being educated process. Plus I know more than the guy who was doing( who's true skills lie in broadcasting and production ) and they have been sending stuff off that he couldn't fix. The pay is certainly less than I would like, if I had a degree, but I need the good resume experience real bad now so I consider it to be worth it. If the Hakko at work uses the same tips, I will compare them. Actually, I got a tip when mine was backordered, i then cancelled the order for the iron, but forgot to cancel the tip ( I needed some other things on that order too bad to wait 3 weeks). I will dig it out and compare it to the iron at work. I could live with degree's celsius, but since you mention that I wonder if the display is worth an extra ten bucks? Also they have an smd tweezer you can get for it, though I don't do much smd work.

Sorry your so busy........ Hmmm it just seemed like maybe you wanted to help out. I just don't understand, you claim to offer free help, but don't have time to help anyone? I will check out the links you posted, Thank you. There are people here who want to understand theese things, and there are people here who just want to build a box and make music. I think most would fall into the latter category. For them I think, "If it ain't broke , don't fix it" applies. I have studied electronics for just over a year, and none of my classes have yet touched on ground loops, and only briefly mentioned bypass capacitors in digital circuits to deal with switching noise. Anything else I have to learn for myself, and have benifited greatly from discussions in this and other forums, possibly more than reading it for myself. Anyway, sorry to rant on, Thanks again for the links, AB

Awesome! I recently got a job working on media equiptment for our county school system (mostly mechanical problems, cleaning heads and soldering loose connections, they don't even have a scope for me to use... but I love it still, my first REAL Job in electronics), and they have a Hakko, not exactly like that one but I like using it very much! I am definitely going to order the one with the digital readout now. Also they have a benchtop fume absorber ( which I saw in a catalog at work , and I think it was made by Hakko too) that I want to get, only like 28 dollars or something. Currently i use a fan I salvaged from an old PC case hooked up to a wall wart, to blow the fumes out of my face so I don't breathe them directly in. Thanks for the test report!

Hey KD, maybe yu can lend your expertise to some of my questions at this thread http://69.56.171.55/~midibox/forum/index.php?topic=3941.msg25566#msg25566 ? And if you know of a more capable/less crippled freeware pcb design software than eagle, chime in on it. Thank you much!

If the filter has CV inputs you can simply add an aout module to your seq and use it to control those parameters with CV. The filtrex 1 has them, as do the modular synth modules(of course ;) ).If you need to control functions other than those provided with cv inputs, things get trickier. You would need the schematics and some knowledge, I don't even know if I could do it. But I was told to look into OTA's for replacing Pots... Still a little above my level at the moment. Anyone else got any suggestions?

Just look on the schematic and trace the power lines backwards.. there is a header (J2) after the large cap, for powering additional cores,right before the voltage regulator. that should get some voltage greater than 5v ,depends on your supply voltage, should get the same across the big Cap. Are you sure you put in the voltage regulator the proper way? how about the bridge rectifier?

Ihave used the same parts with succes. Ihope you get it figured out. By the way i have been working on my sid for over a year, I have one good core/sid combo, and recently converted it to an 8580 and optimized psu.

I made Library for the SID in eagle. If anyone want's it let me know. New question, but first a suggestion....maybe thre should be a sction of the forum for eagle, or any other, layout software questions. Now the question.... I exported a design as an image, but the holes in the pads have traces through them. How do i make the program make real holes? Iwill be making the boards myself either with tonertransfer or transperency for presensitized boards, so this is important.... Maybe I am just dumb.... I am getting along with eagle much better now though, but I can't help but wonder why they chose to implement some things as they did. Thanks in advance!

If i want to connect a core module to a midimerger module, can i simply leave of the second optocoupler and directly attach J11 Midi Out from the core to RA4 of the pic16f877 midimerger? The info on the core page seems to suggest this, but since it's not explicitly given as an example I figured I would ask. Thanks in advance.

Definitely let us know, I am still considering strongly that station, based alot on the price. very reasonable.

A similar question has been asked before. I think the answer was no. the workaround....you need a sysex librarian to transmit the apps as sysex. this would be a pain in the butt to do live, IMO. Probably less frustrating to just build two boxes. Maybe this could be possible, but I think a full app may be too big for the banstick.

I too was not complaining, merely explaining an issue. DOS attacks could explain the behavior described, and I have encountered no such problems since. I believe everyone appreciates the service you have done us. Things are so much faster now! Thank You Twin-X!

Well, the motorfader module can only support a mf's per core, so this would be a similar concept, and probably run into the same limitations. and the motors would increase the size of the project. Just some things to think about.Perhaps you should check out the mf driver code....

Igot it too, tried 3 times and had to wait ten more minutes.... when i did get on i was the only one there.......so does this mean a million ppl where on the board and all left during that ten minutes or was this some other flaw?

Ahh very good. I plan to use all 8580's. I think I found the ulp's I need for generating the libraries. I will try them out tommorow and see for sure. I will try to keep the grounds as seperate as possible, as I mentioned before, this should be fairly easy, due to there not being much analog circuitry anyway. Only thing that bothers me is the sid, it has only one ground pin but is both analog (filters) and digital (everything else right?) I am thinking though, that i may connect it to analog ground. It does not operate at the high frequency of the pic( but 1MhHz is still high, compared to audio) of course it is all one ground in the end...... well, prototype prototype....... Thanks for the advice,

Ok, I am trying to combine the core and sid to one board, with the eventual goal of combining 4 cores and 4 sids to one board. As I try I realize this may not happen.... first an eagle question, what is the way to create a library from an existing board? ( I want to make sure i use the same footprints as in Smash TV's boards, so I can use the same orderlist, and spares from other orders.) I Think I need a ULP or script ore something. Second eagle question, How the heck do you copy and paste in the library editor? I wanted to make a device for the SID chip and tried to copy the dil28 package as per instructions in the tutorial, to no avail.... I wabnt to make the symbol and use it in the schematic, so i cna use forward back annotation, and so it will look pretty and be labled nicely like everything else. Maybe someone has done this already and wants to share the file? Now, the stuff that might really stop me. first, grounding: Do i need to seperate analog and digital ground? I mean everything I know says i should, but the only analog things on the sid are audio in/out right, and are not seperated on the sid layouts.(or are they?) I am prepared to use sockets with inbuilt bypass capacitors if neccesary to help against any digital noise. Next, do I really need to use the voltage regulators on the sid boards? only one , or none? the thing will probably not be powered by the c64 psu in the end, because I will be running an aout and some other things too, and this will likely exceed its ratings, in addition to needing bipolar supply. Finally , board space will be very tight . I am trying to do 2 cores and sids on the freeware version of eagle, and if i can get that accomplished , prototyped and working, get the nonprofit liscense, with twice the board area. what would be really bad to put too close near other components. I am figuring the audio section will get any breathing room i can give it, and the rest not so important? I have a basic idea of track clearances and widths and the like, but for noise or heat purposes??? just so you know the entire lcd section is being left out, there is no room on the case i plan to use for it anyway(it is an old rf amp chassis from some surplus telecom equiptment i purchased for 15 bucks at an auction) I may add a nokia display (i2c right) later. I will program and test the pics and sids on my existing hardware and transfer them to the final board, any problems then will be hardware related(bad soldering or hopefully not, poor layout). That's about it for now. thanks in advance for any useful advice, and sorry to bombard you all with so many Q's I've been thinking about this all weekend.

most motorized knobs I've ever seen ( volume knobs on stereo's) move quite slowly, so probably not so use full on a midi box. they are availible from some surpluss outlets, like all electronics i think....I know I have seen them in some catalogs.

please wear a mask if you paint in a room with little airflow ;) .

Mine is working now..... oh well....