seppoman

The BOM is online in the WIKI now. Docu will grow over the next weeks but at least you can order parts now :)

yes, me :tongue: Those extra Rs and Cs are not absolutely necessary for operation, so if you don't got these parts at hand and want to start using the reader immediately, the only thing you need is the connector. The capacitors are there for power integrity/stabilization, C1 is 100 nF and C2 is a 10 uF electrolytic capacitor (2.5mm spacing). Both are the usual types found on other modules, too, no special types or part numbers required. The two resistors are pullups that are recommended by the official SD Card spec, can be e.g. 1k or 10k. Usually, SD cards will work fine without them but the official way is to put them in. btw, don't ever "bypass", i.e. bridge/short, anything you don't really know why it's there ;) S

Good to hear that the PCBs are arriving :) No that's not necessary - the new envelopes just arrived and now I've got enough to use in the next 2-3 bulk orders ;) actually I've got the feeling that the ladies at the post office were often confused with all the different destinations and weights, and maybe there are a few cases with orders of 3-4 PCBs that might have slipped into the cheaper postage class. So if someone feels that the stamp doesn't match at all with what he paid me, please send me a pic of your stamp/envelope and I'll Paypal you the excess money (don't forget that the "postage" on your Paypal invoice also contains 20c for the envelope and all hidden Paypal fees). S

Progress... I've shipped another bunch of PCBs yesterday and packed almost all for shipping tomorrow. After that, there's only half a dozen people left that either have ordered more than 8 PCBs or more than 4 2044 PCBs - last week I found out that the padded envelopes I bought are a bit on the small side, so I can't fit in more than two 2044 PCBs stacked whithout the envelope getting too narrow. I've ordered a pack of larger envelopes on Monday but am still awaiting delivery. I won't be in town from friday for about a week, so if they don't show up tomorrow, I'm afraid these people will have to wait for a little longer :rolleyes:

I've got the same (similar?) problem but no solution :-/ On my HP laptop, there's an USB Audio Device, but without any Midi ports. Don't know about related file names, but I've already tried various things like completely removing any related registry entries from previous installation attempts etc, with no success. All works fine on my other computer, both are running XP with auto updates enabled...

Why should I hate you? There's at least a dozen different 2044-based designs out on the web, and all of them are better suited for direct pot control and/or usage in a modular synth than mine. That's because I never had these use cases in mind with the design. My module is meant for direct and sole control from one CV source like an AOUT in a MBSID, and that's the reason why it is half the size and parts count compared to most of these other solutions while providing two instead of only one filter channel. I've told people several times both via PM and on the forum that if they need these other functions it might be easier to get one of these other modules like the one you've posted because with my module they'd need to add stuff on veroboard to extend the inputs etc. Besides that, this is not a business for me so I don't "fear the competition" :flowers: Everyone should get what suits them best! S

This is the datasheet: http://www.farnell.com/cad/358993.pdf The card isn't completely centered when inserted, but I moved the socket a tiny bit to the right to compensate this. so you can assume the SD card centered on the PCB edge. Nevertheless, as the position holes on the pcb are slightly larger than the socket's plasic "pins", i.e. the socket might move around in the reflow process for maybe one or two tenths of a mm, I recommend to allow at least 0.5 mm tolerance left and right of the SD card. S

The first half of shipments was posted yesterday - the poor lady at the Post office got totally confused with all the different postage options etc :whistle: I'm trying to pack the rest during the weekend and post them early next week. Uhm yes, I should probably get some docu and parts list for the SSM2164 PCB online soon so you guys know what parts to order. At least the parts list will come on the weekend. Happy soldering :) S

One port per 8 faders is a requirement of the Mackie Control protocol, so using a multiport interface is the one and only way to do it. S

A little update again - in the meantime, TK has built and tested both new modules and everything's fine, so I can start shipping PCBs now :) bad news is that I'm having a very busy week at work, so I didn't manage to do any packing and labeling yet. I'm hoping for some time on the weekend though, so I promise I'll hit the post office next week :) S

Beautiful :thumbsup:

without any jumper, the output OpAmp has an open input so the output will show a more or less random value. not good :/ only one jumper isn't a valid setting, the output won't be connected to the DAC either. It doesn't make sense to use the bipolar setting at all as long as there's no output in unipolar mode. As you've got 0V in unipolar, you can only add a negative offset to your 0V. Hot ICs are always bad, that should never happen. I once fried a DAC during testing, so it is possible to destroy them. What did you do when it got hot? As long as you don't apply any voltages or ground to the jumper pins (especially to the one pin coming from the DAC output) you shouldn't be able to do anything with the jumpers that kills the DAC. When I fried my DAC, it was only one channel that was damaged. So maybe first try calibrating another channel to find out if the DAC is still partly alive and if the connection to the core etc. is alright. Special offer - if the DAC is really broken and you don't know how to replace it, you can send the module to me together with a new DAC and I will swap it for you :) S

I'm not familiar with SEQ V4, but I guess there's some menu page where you can set values for each CV channel. If that's not the case and you got some PIC core you can connect the NG to it and use the MBCV application for calibration. The basic principle to calibrate it for 1 V/Octave mode is to first set the output value to maximum and adjust the trimpots so that the output is at 10.67V. As most synths only make use of a few octaves, you can then determine a few other measurement points and try to get as close as possible to e.g. 1V, 2V, 4V, 8V. All DACs have some nonlinearity so maybe there's a setting of the trimpot where e.g. the range of 0..4V is matched better although e.g. the error at 8V is larger than with another setting. To get it really as good as it can get, you can easily spend one evening with a multimeter and a screwdriver ;) Calibration using the MBCV app is described on the MBCV manual page. And the bipolar mode - there's some synths that require bipolar CVs, e.g. if you use it as one of several CV sources for a VCA in a modular synth, you might have one envelope and one LFO that is mixed on the VCA input, so a bipolar CV will enable you to have the LFO not only add but also subtract a value from the EG. - If you don't know what to use it for at the moment, I suppose you don't really need that function right now :) S

regarding the 6 voices - that is possible using the Multi or Drum engine as these sound engines are using the simpler one oscillator voices. The Lead engine doesn't provide more than one voice, it does three oscillator sounds with various stereo modulation features. S

Jubilee Post No. 1000, hurray :afro: The PCBs finally arrived, and I've even already completed soldering all the SD sockets. I'm only waiting for a final Go! from TK who is about to test the ETH and SDCARD module. So the PCBs will start shipping within the next few days. Padded envelopes are ready :) BTW I've got a few spares of the ETH and SDCARD module available, and there's about 50 spares each of both SSM PCBs. The ETH/SDCARD spare PCBs are meant to bridge the gap until SmashTV will eventually start offering these, so please only order these if you know you won't just put them on the shelf for years but you will use them in the next months. I won't sell more than one of each per person if you don't come up with a good explanation why you would need 10 ETHs immediately ;) S

WOW, very impressive :thumbsup: is there a place where we can learn more details about this fantastic box? Is it based on MIOS8/MIOS32, what software is it running, schematics, what PC software are you using it with, what's the UI concept, what are all these beautiful buttons there for etc? Questions questions questions :drool: S

ok I've searched a bit, and the known part numbers are really hard to source in the US. Also half of the shops in Germany that I knew of are out of stock and stating an expected shipping date of around October (!). Looking at the datasheets, I've found at least two models that are in stock at Digikey that are suitable. Part numbers are SI-60001-F and SI-60005-F. Both are reasonably priced and differ only in LED colors. If you wanna build your ETH modules before end of year, I'd suggest not to wait too long to order these connectors as it looks like supply is not too dependable right now and the manufacturer has quite long lead times. I'll try to find you some more part numbers in the next days (also I hope there might be a few compatible parts from other manufacturers). S

That one is completely wrong. It doesn't even have integrated magnetics ("transformer"). It's not sufficient that it has a hole where you can stick a LAN cable in ;) The "official ones" are made by Bel Stewart (Belfuse) and have the Word MagJack embossed. And even Bel Stewart makes hundreds of different models, some are suitable, most aren't. They have different footprints, pin configurations, different setups and properties of the transformer part etc. Part numbers: SI-60062-F SI-60024-F SI-40141-F There are a few other Bel Stewart parts available e.g. from Digikey that mainly differ in LED colors. I will make a list of more suitable part numbers tonight. It looks like Mouser doesn't sell Bel Stewart parts at all, so better check out Digikey for the other parts, too. There's dozens of manufacturers making literally thousands of different varieties of these "MagJacks". E.g. I'm using a Tyco part for another project, some people are using PulseJack parts with ENCs on the net. But at least the Tyco has a different pinout. Maybe there is even some part from a different manufacturer that has a matching pinout etc, but finding these would involve comparing thousands of datasheets, so better stick with the Bel Stewart parts. S

Update - the PCB house just informed me that the PCBs are scheduled to ship tomorrow. I was already wondering why they didn't arrive by now. Obviously they did a re-run of the ETH PCB because E-test revealed a short circuit on some of their "first try". The shipment should be here by end of this week. The SD sockets are already at my place, so I know what to do this weekend ;) S

you're right that higher resistance will decrease the current consumption. But 100 pots/faders consume only about 50 mA, so compared to e.g. the LCD backlight where a little turn of the trimpot can change the current by +/- 100 or 200 mA, there isn't very much to be saved. And there are reasons why TK specifies 10k pots and almost everyone including most commercial controllers use this value. The higher the resistance gets, the weaker the pot signal becomes. If you got only a very tiny compact box and take care of proper wiring, you might be able to use 50k or maybe even 100k pots. 1000k is definitely unusable. But even with 10k, there have been some people complaining about unstable and jittering values of pots. This is mostly caused by bad wiring or physical placement of e.g. a transformer/SMPS, but still 10k is a good compromise value that allows for stable readings in 99% of cases and doesn't use much current. Let's say if I had a huge number of highest quality 20k or 50k pots laying on the cupboard, I'd probably try out if they work fine. But if you buy new ones, please just stick to the specification and save yourself (and us) the hassle of first troubleshooting and then replacing the pots anyway. S

Und das kann man nachbauen? ;)

Hallo, was ist denn XB111? Nie gehört. Ansonsten, wie bist Du denn auf die Idee gekommen, ne PIC16-Midibox Plus zu bauen? Das ist ja absolute Steinzeit und wird seit Jahren nicht mehr supportet/weiterentwickelt. Das Ding war schon veraltet bzw ein Auslaufmodell, als ich hier 2003 neu reinkam ;) Da muß man ja schon die Suche bemühen, um überhaupt noch Doku zu finden. Naja, jetzt isses nunmal so. Was für ne Platine verwendest Du denn? Wenns die alte "originale" Platine ist und es trotzdem nicht klappt, liegt das zu 99% an kalten Lötstellen/Verdrahtungsmängeln. Die MBPlus ist, so wie ich das verstehe, so vorkonfiguriert, daß das 1:1 zu den Anschlüssen dieser Platine paßt, insofern muß man da nix umkonfigurieren/kompilieren usw. Du solltest also den Sourcecode auch nicht brauchen, um das Ding in Betrieb zu nehmen. S

Yes - use a mixer ;) or if it's connected to a DAW software, setup two mono channels using only left in and right in as an input, so you can pan them independently.

Yes :)

you don't really have to know anything about ASM for what you want to do. You just need to enter different SR and pin numbers to remap existing encoder functions to different DIN pins. The only difficulty is that you need to setup a GPASM toolchain to recompile the app after the changes are made - toolchain quickstart. As Nils already said, have a look at the KNOB function. For a "Step A" type interface with just a few added elements, this is the most flexible solution. If you recompile the app with "#define DEFAULT_J5_FUNCTION 1" you can connect 5 pots (not encoders) to J5 which you can assign to any parameter you like via the menu, so if you think that e.g. in some patch, it's useful to be able to tweak ENV2 Decay when playing live, just go to the menu and do it :) S