illogik

??? als ik begrijp wat je bedoelt; volgens mij is dat niet echt handig (wie zegt dat je met hout rechter gaten boort) de sticker, centerpunch en kolomboor methode is volgens mij de beste oplossing als je het thuis wilt doen; wat ik bedoelde is dat het al moeilijk is om met de centerpunch precies (want daar gaat het om) recht te slaan (in het midden van de ref. points) het gaat wel vaak goed, maar als je er heel veel moet slaan gaan er altijd wel een paar fout als je met kleine printplate of losse onderdelen werkt, maakt het op zich allemal niet zoveel uit, maar ik heb bijvoorbeeld wel eens een mbseq gemaakt waar alles op 2 grote printplaten zat, dan telt elk foutje wat je op de hele panel maakt bij elkaar op (want alles moet ten opzichte van elkaar precies goed staan) resultaat; na 2 weken boren, paste het mooi niet... tip, als je het niet te groots aanpakt bij je eerste project probeer het gewoon (er staan ook wel tips in dit forum); anders misschien hier bestellen; http://www.cncpanels.co.uk/ laters, marcel

een kolomboormachine hoeft niet duur te zijn (maar is wel groot) ik heb er een van ferm voor 70 euro btw zelfs met een kolomboor is het moeilijk om een perfecte frontpanel te boren. het gaat trouwens meer om hoe goed je je (10tallen) centerpoints slaat, voor mij toch nog steeds een probleem, let wel een afwijking van 0,5 mm heeft al aardig wat impact met zulk precisiewerk cheers, marcel

or so it seems, media (through which you encounter most of these people) makes, but also distorts the view you have on the world (its not objective).. i guess i'm saying don't get dismayed too much and think it's all f(&*ked up. this is probably how these people got this way in the first place :-\ cheers, marcel hey this isn't midibox related ;) looking more and more like a standard forum..

dude, watch out ;) on the burnerschematic pdf there are 3 options; 15V DC (in this case bypass the rectifier) 18V DC (2 * 9V batteries with or without rectifier) 15V..20V AC the psu you got gives DC; but the voltage between the two poles u used isn't 15 or 18 but 24! so first get your voltages right (why not use 2 batteries) then you can see if it still works cheers, marcel

hi; i've had also some fun with LDR's (i love these things) going to ain. I didn't calculate load resistance but just took a small resistor (1k? i'll check), with a (10k?) pot in series, this having the advantage that you an "scale" the sensor, you can go from very little or no effect to full swing ;D used swith to go from sensor circuit to a normal pot it's kinda experimental but useable.. wikipage on alternative AIN devices? i'll have some time next week for that

hi; i don't have that, but you can lay it out like in the schematic, you'll just have to solder a lot of bridges/airwires. anyway, why don't make/buy a dinx4 pcb (you gonna need it sooner or later!) cheers, marcel

hey and welcome, just to be sure; you know that this is a hardware project/sequencer right? the mbseq is a step sequencer/arpeggiator/+++ which is optimized for live playing/editing; you can control every parameter of every step while playing (muting/cc#'s/notes/etc) read on at the ucapps pages for full specs. you mean a midi keyboard right? if the seq track is in arpeggiator mode, it does exactly that. cheers

hi for the following bits you really need a second opinion, they are guesses basicly; :P i think you should link secondaries (now you have 6 volts going to a 7812), and only use one bridgerectifier of this i am more sure; a regulator causes a voltage drop; so for a 7812 you need 1 or 2 volts more, even the 12v you get when linking secondaries isn't enough cheers, marcel

hey moogah; have you talked to hallucinogen? he doesn't trigger the sounds with the aout; he also uses the dout (running with MIDIO128 but still; dout), he just put in some code so that the douts give ~1ms pulse; could be what you are looking for cheers

999 out of 1000 times it's a hardware (construction!) error but you could be number 1000 of course ;D i have no concrete ideas for you at the moment..

i think it's in the readme file; if you upload "update_without_installed_mios.hex" and you allready have bootstrap v1.2 it will abort after 3 times. try the "mios_v1_9_pic18f452.hex, this is for a pic running with bootstrap 1.2 cheers

don't get too exited and miss everything.. ;) on smashtv's website on the order/buy page, right where you order the pic there is; Javascript ID Calculator there you see it constist of 3 sections; *the ID number, which is only has to be an unique when you are making a multi core box; so you can choose 00 here most of the time (with two cores you'd name em 00 and 01 for instance) *the type of display; normally character, you would know it if it's not. *I/O type; normally... midi so just go for 0000000000000000 it will work fine good luck

nice piece stryd that is true (0-127 that is) but don't forget that a pot is no better in this case (when controlling/making a digital signal like midi, when donig analog stuff it's different), it also sends steps/values from 0 to 127. the advantage of an encoder is when you switch (like having layers), it is always "in the right position" and a pot isn't. if you have a lcd, and your mb64(E) is running in display menu; you can see the values of all the encoders (as black bars) cheers, marcel

like stryd says; you went too fast :-\ i really don't think a lot of people are interested in putting a lot of work into this because it is an old project (but i could of course be wrong); i think for everything that mbplus does, mb64 does it better and has more options/mre flexible how much did the pcb's cost? kinda; without a bankstick a midibox has only one setup; with bankstick you get more banks/patches etc. good luck

i think they are digtast buttons; do a search on them (mouser?) the knobs (really nice ones!) are directly from albs i think shipping and minimum order is ok here veroboards; mouser? cheers, marcel

as for bending a speak&read (or any toy) and controlling this with midi; -most bends are connecting 2 points together; you can make (CMOS ic?) switches that switch with a trigger, i'm still planning to write something on this if you make some matrixes with these switches you have some nice possibilties -use midio128 DOUT for triggering (buttons, controlled switches) cheers, marcel

no; the only calibration that can be done at the core are LCD brightness/contrast and if you turn up the contrast, youll see a bar of black blocks, right? yes, but only if; * you have your midi device routing properly set up in MIOSStudio * and the midi part of your core works; do the MIDI-troubleshooting guide step by step to insure your core is working good luck, marcel

yeah people, have some more patience; some people have other things to do in the real world ;) btw hallucinogen is very helpful slcrz; there are examples here too for instance the opl3 psu >>can be modified to give bipolar 15 volt instead of 12; northernlightx was designing a psu aswell. off you go... ;D

then your expectations are incorrect ;) it doesn't say MB64Inputs afterall for one core module you have 128 digital input; a button uses 1 digital input a encoder uses 2. so you could but you wouldn't be able to add encoders or more buttons without adding an extra core no this is, like explained above a wrong interpretation of the name MB64(E); 64 is the max number of encoders or pots you can connect without adding more core modules. (buttons are "real input devices" too) this is true, if i understand you, welcome to the magik of midibox ;D and..; you need only one bankstick; you get 8 banks= 1024 parameters but; :o cheers, marcel btw, i just build MB64E with 8 encoders & buttons+ ledrings, but i think the most flexible solution would still be the common version (TK's version)> 16 encoders/16 buttons

don't use mb64 but mb64e ??? why backwards? (not saying this is a problem), and now you have 2 encoders on one side of the SR yeah, you can do 4 per SR. cheers, marcel

just a kickstart for you (and stryd ;) ); from mios introduction page; One core module, stuffed with a PIC18F452, can handle with: * up to 128 digital inputs * up to 128 digital outputs * up to 64 analog inputs * character and graphical dotmatrix LCDs * BankSticks (IIC EEPROMs) * one MIDI In, one MIDI Out, optionally as to-COM interface these are maximum values only, less is always possible no room for buttons, but still room for 64 faders or pots since these are AIN which you haven't used yet thats because they are very similar; at first the MB64E was here as an alternative to MB64 so you could use encoders. at that stage MB64E wasn't made for using AIN aswell, this was changed because there are a lot of people like you that wanted to mix the 2 input methods. cheers, marcel

in these cases; first do a forum search.... http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?topic=6559.msg41165#msg41165 ;)

are you sure stryd? i think you can save either a din or a dout by using J5 either as in- or as output. overkill doesnt exist here; a core module will cost around 20 euros an can be programmed as basic as possible forget the other options, your box will be quite easy to make; i guess it will cost you about 40 euros without the case, knobs and psu good luck, marcel mb64, like i said you can keep all the projects as basic as possible, a mb64 with just 4 knobs is one of the many possibilities; when choosing a project; just look for the one that can do what you want you can leave out everything you dont need

ja in rotterdam dus; maar tenzij je daar erg dichtbij woont zou ik voor de mts optie gaan; je kan het evt. aan een leraar daar vragen, je moest eens weten hoeveel mensen het vet vinden om aan zoiets "speciaals" als een zelfgebouwd muziekapparaat mee te werken. en als het niet kan, kunnen ze je waarschijnlijk wel de goeie kant op sturen. groeten, marcel

zoeken op internet; ik denk dat je verder dan nederland moet kijken (heeft mouser niet heel veel behuizingen?), of maken; je kunt bij sommige metaalwinkels metaal laten buigen (zetten), dan kun je makkelijk een stevig kastje in elkaar zetten groeten, marcel