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ok, CS and SI are right at 4V SC is at 5V. Is that normal? forgot to mention something very important, when the module powers up, the outputs short to ground. This is coming from the analog side since it does the same thing when J1 is disconnected I am also reading ~36K to gnd with nothing connected on all the outputs..

Yes, set to ng 5V and 1k pull ups will do next thanks

Finally installing some CV outs.. Maybe I overlooked something here but I am having a hell of a time getting everything to work together. * STM32 Core * SD card running Wilba's HW config * +5/+12/-12 Supply running fine * Checked wiring from J19 10 times * Checked components on NG board I get good voltages on the NG board, nothing is hot but as soon as I turn on the core, all the outputs of the NG short to ground. Going to the CV config page none of the config voltages do anything.. Not a core issue since I swapped out cores with the same results

Yep, understood. Single color was all I was planning for. This is just laid out perfectly for how I wanted to make my buttons anyway. The whole "low cost" thing never really works out for my projects :P

Quick question: Is there any reason NOT to have the tact and LED combined into a backlit button? This looks like a really good fit (i.e. LED right above the tact) for my laser cut led+tact combo similar to what Sasha was working on ways back..

not too late, just trying to make time to put a RFQ together this week..

thats the one. :)

you have, I pay, you send :)

I had a second case made by FPD (long story, dont ask) so I am selling my original case. I am willing to throw in the core32 at Smashes kit price or prefer to swap if you have a core32 (same goes for SD card PCB) The label goes over the screw holes for the core32 so it would be best to leave it with the case otherwise I'll have to take off the label to remove the core PCB. Transformer and entry module is included. The entry module is wired for power from the mains or from USB (one or the other). I can include the bottom panel with the wood sides or a virgin, unpainted bottom (blue) and unfinished, laser cut sides if you prefer. All hardware for mounting the CS is included but NOT for the displays. I'll included extra M3 socket head bolts though so everything matches. $200 without core32 (or core32 swap) $235 with my core32. This does NOT include the displays, SD card board (unless you have one to swap), control surface PCB, or cables. The transformer is 9VAC 300mA that can be easily adapted to 220VAC if needed, it is wired for 110VAC currently Pics:

Alright, I have 178 of the knobs that are on my MB808 I think we have as many ppl interested as there is going to be so I think its time to move forward

Yep, those are the ones.. I plan on getting more caps as well so I'll try to take inventory of what I have left over

Yup, thats how it works. You can also get solid ones for encoders. MB808 is what I got them for the first time around for that exact reason:

Goldbaby has all sorts of excellent free sample sets of a variety of classic drum machines (Tape606 is outstanding) http://www.goldbaby.co.nz/freestuff.html

gtx: perfect, the 11mm ones are on my list also. Not soft rubber, but nice none the less :)

Yeah, that should be fine. As long as they are "standard" stock parts (this usually means, green, red, white etc. Not "Sea foam green") they dont (or they didnt) have a problem doing odd pack sizes. My interest here is the 11mm diameter ones soft ones and maybe the ones with the caps as well, into small knobs these days

I have knobs for the MB808 still so if you want to use the same ones as seen on mine and TKs, all you will need to get is the caps. Unless Doug changed it, those need to be south facing (not the standard north) but with the ones with the cap, you can do whatever you want pointer wise. I do the 6mm D to 1/4" on my x0xb0xes. What I do is get a thin wall 1/4" OD brass tube and a 6mm reamer and make bushings to make up the difference. Works perfectly Http://midiot.net/bushing.JPG

Since the knobs pool of manufactures is rapidly drying up, I think its time for another bulk order from these guys. The process is long and convoluted but I was able to get get a bunch of knobs for the MB808 crowd way back. I actually have a hundred or so of those left if anyone is intersted (minus the caps) Their prices are pretty decent but there is a minimum order size order for a lot of stuff. This is their offering: http://www.sifam.com/knobsSelector.asp?cat=Knobs_Push_On For now, please just put in the qty and type of knob you are interested in and we will see what the consensus is so we can narrow it down to a couple types. The ones with the push on caps are the ones I got for the MB808s and the caps are available in several colors

Saw this on Muff: Here is the material: http://www.rowmark.com/laser/metalgraphplus/metalgraphplus.asp I spoke to my local distributor and the 2'x4' sheet is around $75 for the 1/8" thick These guys already do it: http://www.pro-modular.com/ Going to talk to Ponoko and see if they can do it :) stay tuned..

I run 3 of the GM5x5x5s and I noticed a weird behavior, if I dont use them, one or two of them will eventually disappear from the device manager requiring me to unplug and replug them. Yesterday it finally dawned on me what was causing it. Under the "default" and "high performance" power profiles, there is a setting for "USB selective suspend" (under advanced/USB settings), this is enabled by default. Turning it off fixed the disappearing GM5 issue. Something in the GM5 is intermittently preventing it from waking back up since I have had this occur on all my GM5s at some point..

what voltage are you getting at J2? Check and make sure +5 is not shorting to GND, it should not get that hot

set your meter to beep, put one lead on +5 and the other on GND, it should NOT beep. The rectifier should not get hot, make sure it is in the correct way. Sounds like problem is there