Altitude

Via midi? No problem, i do it all the time with mine via internal triggers, i dont think the two devices have the same triggering scheme. I am sure you could adapt it but i dont think it will work as it currently stands.

for one thing, you dont need the double holes next to the scrub button and the in the middle just below the LCD, those were only really necessary for the 2 piece prototype PCBs, the "production" boards are one piece so two holes there are not needed, one will be fine.

miswiring one is instant death, the backlight LEDs blow immediately

more pics now that I machined out the back for the core32 and SD card and painted the outer shell

I had to go up spacer wise since board is half as thick as the FPE made panel in the original design. I had 10mm spacers there originally but added 1.5mm worth of washers since the button caps were sticking out a lot. You could probably go to 12mm with no issues (I like the buttons sitting low). I am still thinking about what I want to do about the back. Personally, I am not crazy about how it was done on the other case where the core32 was bolted to the bottom panel with standoffs and with the way this case is made, it may be a bit cumbersome. Ideally, I would like just to use L brackets and just mounting to to the panel but I have not really worked out a good way to do that yet with the core (the SD card is easy to do with a standard bracket as well as my 4x I2C board). I would like to do it like TK's case though with the core on one side, DB25/SDCARD/ETH in the middle and the other 4 ports and BLM on the other side. The panel mounted midi jacks is one thing I am considering along with a panel mounted USB port as well which would solve the board mounting issue. As far as the LEDS go, I had no problem just hitting both leads and adjusting the height after I had soldered them in initially when I was trying to decide if I wanted them flush with the top of the panel or sticking out but that probably wont work for the 3 prong ones.. You could always just put standoffs on the board and flip it upside down, lay it on something flat, and solder them in like that, no guarantee that they will be perpendicular to the board, but the height should be the same that way

I considered engraving but again, I wanted something that would hide the screw holes. I did my MB808 like this and it worked out well so I figured I would do the same here. For the LEDS, I just waited till I had the case to do it..

There reason for that is so no one starts a "i'll build a midibox for you for $$$" business.

Been there, done that, wont do it again. There has to be at least several standoffs screwed to the panel for it to hold reliably. For a board as long and large as this, the through hole/blind hole mounts that are on there are what is needed and the instructions add epoxied standoffs as additional support.

That would probably look worse than just using black screws. It is just a cosmetic issue (for me)

Yeah, I did wood sides on my MB808 which is a very similar case (different size) and they look sharp. Ponoko has some walnut vernier stock that might work well for this and be really cheap to get made. I'm still on the fence about screening vs a label. The label would cover up all the screw holes that would be visible if it were screened.

Well, for me it is a case of iamtoocooltoreadtheguideitis so i missed the part about certain LEDS being oriented differently from the other ones (namely the step view and the transport ones). Put them in the right orientation and I am good, everything works..

Yup the whole enclosure with all the holes on the face and back panel as well. They can do everything at Hammond, silk screening also..

Thanks, looks like I have some more debugging to do.

yeah, I do. The odd LEDs were a result of putting the step view LED backwards. Can you comment on the transport LEDS?

I have a question about the LED light normal behavior can someone verify what is the normal functionality of the transport LEDS (play/stop/pause)? i.e should they light when the key is pressed? Mine dont do anything. Also, I have the track group 3, track 1, track 3, trigger layer B, parameter layer 3, Step view and solo all permanently lit.. The 595s check out sorted, fell victim to the step view LED..

AFAIK, all the tools in the toolchain quick start are required, so yes.

oh, good one. The whole thing looks bigger than it actually is in the pics. the flat part at the top is only 2.2 inches wide

I'm thinking drink holder, Goose neck lamp, and maybe one of those little bird thingys that bob back and forth like they are drinking water

MPlab is supported any more, only SDCC. You need to set up the software environment as outlined here: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/windows_toolchain_quickstart

So Hammond carries an enclosure that is a very good fit for the SEQ http://www.hammondmfg.com/pdf/1456RH3.pdf I ordered one from mouser (~$45) and had FPE do the CNC stuff ($99) The results: The down side is that it is considerably thinner than the original plan calls for (1/16"/ 1.6mm) so blind holes are not an option. Orginally, I was planning on getting a lexan label made by maverick which would have windows instead of holes for the LCD and LEDS but with black hardware, I am thinking about silk screening. The label is not too expensive in quantity (~$30 @ 50pcs) though.. But here is the best part, I had hammond quote the whole enclosure with all the holes (front and back since they punch it before folding it) and with a black base (mine is blue) for ~$100 total. Their minimum order is 25 pcs and their is a flat $450 setup fee since they do not have the tooling for some of the holes (25 pcs @ 86.50 +$450 = $104 ea) If there is enough interest, I am open to running a bulk on these. Lead time from hammond is 5 weeks

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arrived in Michigan today, thanks!

In limbo until something happens with the cases. I am not going to get them made until there is an up or down decision.

There is this: http://www.beat707.com $75 for the kit..

sold..