Altitude

Sure. I recommend you add a SPDT switch with one leg connected to J1, the middle pin to J2, and the other leg to your PSU. That way you can easily switch between external power or USB power. Handy to have and will prevent you from using both at once accidently

Damn Tim, glad you and your's are fine. EF5 is no joke.

Thought I'd share this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1x-SD-Card-Module-mini-reader-socket-module-/170826337065?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:US:3160 I just snapped up a couple of these and it should be an easy connection to a Core board (will report back confirming that). They have a 3.3V/5V switch, regulator, and a micro SD slot on the back. I like these a lot better than some of the other aurdino one since they have the holes on the side of the slot like seppomans board did so mounting it to the panel via L brackets is possible These DO NOT work out of the box, the transistor buffers screw things up for some reason and need to be removed like here. I used 0 ohm 0603 resistors but a piece of lead wire will work fine. Once this is done, it works fine.

Out of curiosity, why is that important?

I use OSHpark all the time, highly recommend. ENIG plating and purple boards. He sends jobs out every couple of days so expect to get the parts in 2 weeks if you're in the US. I've retired my FeCl2 tank as a result of this place since I can just upload eagle files and have pro quality boards 2 weeks later and he can make boards cheaper than I can doing them by hand. I also use the "medium run" (150 sq, in.) service and the price point can be beat at $1 per square inch. I did a lot of shopping around to have my monotribe midi boards made and most quotes came in at around $400 for 100 boards, Lain got me 200 boards for $178, enough said You also can use BatchPCB. Little more expensive but also good high quality stuff. My 4XIIC midi board was made there before Smash's version was available I use PCBfabexpress (Advanced Circuits main competitor in the US) for my day job regularly, but places like that a more geared toward fast over cheap so they are in another cost bracket all together

using a vreg in series from a switcher might improve things depending on what you use. 78xx ones probably not though since they have notoriously bad ripple rejection. More modern switching regulators do have have very good ripple rejection but will unlikely be in a format that you can simply drop in but there are some that can be used directly (the Recom ones are drop in replacements). The problem with that is if you are going to go to a modern switching regulator, what's the point of using a big switching supply? You can simply feed a switching vReg straight from a standard wall wart, they can take a high input voltage without a heat sink (I'm talking up to 40V!). The way i've powered a NG module was to use an AC supply (12VAC) and split the rails with a half wave rectifier to ~+/- 12VDC and then just power the core with 12VAC with a switching 5V vReg. Everyone is always looking for big complicated power supplies for all this stuff and really, the solution for all of it is pretty straight forward. I power all my devices with a single wall wart or AC/AC transformer (MB6582 runs on 12VDC, SEQV4 with AOut runs on 115V/12VAC) All that being said, there is no reason with enough filtering he shouldn't be able to get the supply noise down to acceptable levels and that will involve a fair share of elbow grease to figure out since the ripple will get worse at load so everything will need beefing up. I know ppl that have tamed computer PSUs for audio stuff. But again, why make a mountain out of a mole hill? Back in the day, Elpac power systems use to make tripple output linear regulated wall warts (+5@.6A, +/- 12@0.2A) called WM063s. I have a couple that I prize but those are long gone and impossible to find

You know, that is a REALLY noisy PSU. If you compare it to a Power One that the modular guys are fond of, its not even close.. Power Ones have a 2 mV output noise and ripple, these are 100 and 80 mVs. Even the new school switching 5V regulators are no more than 50 mV PtoP noise wise. Into the digital rail that is that is fine but for the analog side not so much

yes, of course. That's what I thought you were measuring.. IIRC, start/stop is a pulse as well though..

Recom rules:

Yeah, you should see pulses, Dont think a meter will cut it though. You'll need a scope. This should work out of the box.. You can try a soundcard scope like this: http://www.zeitnitz.de/Christian/scope_en

You need to buffer and level shift the signal up. The LPC core is 3.3V, DINSYNC needs 5V http://ucapps.de/mbhp/mbhp_core_lpc17_output_buffers.pdf

1A is plenty for the 5V rail Liking the look of their +/-12V Step up transformers as well. Could be a slick way of powering some CV stuff http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/468/REC3-SRW_DRW_Z_Hx-26530.pdf

I was pulling 700 mA total with the bulk of that from the SIDs and that was with the 6582s. That meanwell is huge though, 4A on the 5V rail is way more than you need and 1A on the 12V is the minimum. I dont recall how much the 5V was pulling but it was close to the minimum rating (300 mA) for that PSU so I would check and make sure its not too low, if you dip below the rated minimum that voltage could jump up and do some damage. I am not crazy about switching power supplies for regulated rails like that thing. I would just get a 1-1.2 amp linear 15VDC transformer and put a switching 5V regulator in place of the 7805

Got my parts in Michigan on Saturday.. Thanks..

I may be joining this party shortly since this (laser cut case) is on my todo shortlist. As far as the power supply goes, unless you are adding a CV add on, the easy way to it is just to use an old USB cell phone charger with the right USB end on it, works like a charm. Also, you can hang the core off the midi connectors if you use the ones with the 3 holes around the connector. This makes mounting the core simple since you only have to worry about lining it up on one facet of the case. I have the FPE file with the right spacing that I used for my SEQV4 if you want it

Thought I might post this since it may be useful to someone else: I have the green on black optrex displays on my sequencer that I have never been happy with since I could never really dial in a good balance between brightness and contrast and there were weird bright spots on the display as well. The backlight was always shining through too much at lower settings and it seemed that the only way to get it acceptable was to make everything super bright which I was not fond of. This was more prevalent over USB than running off the mains as well. I tried different pots with more resolution and although that helped, it didnt really resolve the issue. Fast forward a year or two and I used the same display on my Ambika, issue was not present there. That got me thinking to compare how those two circuits differ and the only difference was how the backlight was being powered. Ambika was just a resistor while the Core32 has the transistor current sink. The Optrex displays do not draw a lot of current at all so I just gambled and took out the BC337 and related stuff and just wired a 5K 20 turn trimmer between the - pin of the backlight and ground and viola! Works perfect now, background is nice and black and the weird bright spots are gone! I carefully checked the trimmer to make sure it could handle the current and no problems there..

how long is your cable between the core and NG? I had problems getting mine running when the cable was more than a foot. Keep it under 10"

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^Nice, 80s porn ;p Encoders DO work like buttons. In one direction, it is like an up button, in the other it's like a down button

Yup. Gotta be quicker than that :P Well aware about the SRIO chain length though, ran into the length issue with an AOUT module before. Probably a good time to play around with some buffering

Mine. So any tips for hooking this up via the IIC blm port?

Should ppl on the beta BL update to 1.010?