Altitude

set your meter to beep, put one lead on +5 and the other on GND, it should NOT beep. The rectifier should not get hot, make sure it is in the correct way. Sounds like problem is there

last call before this goes up on Muff and AH

Sounds like something is shorting the 5V rail, check for continuity between +5 and GND

Ha! Guess it was time :)

SOLD

Talk to Nebula, he uses those west coast guys and yes, its a better deal than BatchPCB. Anything approaching 50 boards, I'd go with advance circuits though

So this was a problem for me a while ago that I never really solved but it now has to be resolved since my seq and 4xIIC board is done. So what I have tracked this down to is that the hex file that is in the zip file for whatever reason is different than the hex file I can MAKE here. The hex file in the zip cannot be read by any programing software I have tried (P18, PICkit 2, and another one I used to use) on any machine. The one I MAKE here works fine however. When I open up the two in a hex editor here are the results: (note the extra 0D in the official one, it repeats throughout). I'm waiting on parts to actually test my IIC board and it'll either work or not so at this point, it is more a curiosity issue for me since it seems so strange that the official hex (which was verified as fine) for some reason does not work anywhere for me The hex file in the zip: and the one i MAKE here:

What are we talking about here? For the MB6582, the LCD is attached to the PCB so whatever fits, works. I dont think I have seen 2-56 standoffs but I have also been known to drill out those holes bigger so they can take a 4-40

I used 2-56

got to keep it tight for the midwest massive :P

you shouldnt need it. Why not just run it over midi?

read through this: http://ucapps.de/mbhp_lcd.html

Thats how it works, if you loose something and cannot find it, the quickest way to find it is to STOP LOOKING FOR IT. Sounds crazy but try it

Digikey has them also for $29

Ah, that should be a little easier then and the DINs are what you want..

You can specify the PIC ID header right on the SmashTV oder form for the PIC8 kit(0 and 1 in your case) but I HIGHLY recommend you sped a LOT of time familiarizing yourself with the hardware and software side of things before diving head first into this.. If you are experienced with programming in C for 8 bit uCs, digital multiplexers, and have a very good understanding of the electronics of your organ than you will be fine but if you think this is just solder this wire to that pin, this wont go very well for you. I have no experience with the mechanical/electrical controls of organs but can definitely say you will need digital OUTS not INS to control it (with relays probably)

Quote fond of my WS SR, would be very cool to breath some new life into it..

so how does one go about using a custom LCD driver?

Digikey

I just recapped 2 808s, I used: Elna 10uF 16V Panasonic EEU-FC1V102S (1000UF 35V) EEU-FC1V102 (1000UF 35V, the smaller one) EEU-EB1V471 (470 uF, they did have this in the FC series)

Thats the direction I am going but I cant get it running in 8 or 4 bit mode on a standard core

So Newhaven has a line of 4X20 OLEDs out and I thought it would make for a nice upgrade for my MB6582 but looking at the data sheet, the connections look a little different from what I am used to, can anyone shed some light on how this should be connected? http://www.newhavendisplay.com/specs/NHD-0420DZW-AY5.pdf