rosch

lol

Hast Du es besonders eilig mit dem MF Modul? TK entwickelt ja gerade eine neue, stark verbesserte Version. Du kannst es Dir ja mal anschauen:

thanks for posting this useful information, monokinetic! very useful indeed, as this makes decision easy for me. as the TDA and 8515 are not needed for the future i'll definitely give the old one a try for now, because i have all the stuff here already. i'll post results about the part values in case i get it running, just for the sake of completeness. apart from all that, i'm of course interested in the sequel, and you can count me in whatever there will be.

i just found out that clicking on parts in an eagle file often helps telling a component's value i had a look at swinkels's PLCC design. his output decoupling caps are 1uF. so, from what i could see i just need 3x 100N, wima 2x 1U, i have wima type and bipolar electrolytics so, unless the latest schematic posted (swinsid_09.zip) is known to be not working i'd still like to give it a try. i couldn't find any of the 470N caps mentioned above, but as i intend to transfer the schem to perfboard (quick & dirty) there's plenty of room to make some changes if need to. so, is there something special to be aware of regarding which (old) firmware would or would possibly not work with this version, or would you just consider it stupid to go ahead and give it a try instead of waiting for the decent one? of course i'm still interested in the new development, i just feel like soldering, as i seem to have all parts lying here and it's actually just a handful of components.

:) if you'd even be willing to do a rework that's much more than i would have expected. i've seen the PLCC-44 design on swinkels's website but thought i'd rather stick to your through hole version, and got me some TDA's from VOTI.NL but i thought the difference were just a matter of the chip package (obviously didn't look closely enough). also i don't know how great the differences are,i mean it's clearly over my head to redesign this work, as i'd probably be just glad if i get it running at all so if you really like to do this i could just offer you some ordinary help, like soldering services or any other kind of logistic stuff. as i was digging through all threads i could find on this topic, looking for info, i already thought i could also start one in which i'd keep detailed records for noobs like me how to get a swinsid to run. ok but that's not exactly helping with your design...

hi nILS, i'd like to try the last version. i have the TDA1543, 2x Atmega8515 through hole. now i'm not sure about the caps in the list the guy posted above: that's 7 caps while i can just see 5 caps in your latest pcb file. my 1st guess would be that the 22p caps were for use with a quartz right? the eagle file also didn't tell me any cap values. (maybe i lack some fundamental eagle knowledge here). as i have understood it i don't need a sid module to hook this to a core? is it ok with you if i have mike make me a board or should i rather try it with perfboard?

ach so, ich habe gedacht wir reden vom AIN bzw DIN. dabei braucht man nämlich taster oder encoder, im analogen fall normalerweise potis oder fader.

was du da bräuchtest ist kein taster sondern ein schalter, der in dem schaltzustand bleibt. es wäre allerdings nur sinnvoll wenn er quasi den fader kurzschließt. ansonsten könnte ich mir vorstellen, du nimmst einen schalter mit zwei ebenen. die eine schließt ganz normal, während die andere die verbindung zum fader öffnet. dann würden sie sich nicht beide beeinflussen.

ich bin selbst amateur und kann deshalb nur ungefähr auskunft geben. LCD: du brauchst nicht unbedingt ein zweites. du brauchst nicht mal unbedingt überhaupt eins. mehrere Cores: das haben schon einige leute hier gemacht mit der MB64. mir fällt da auf anhieb protofuse ein, aber geh einfach mal durch die rubrik midibox of the week, da findest du bestimmt ein paar verdächtige. beim SIDV2 gehts ja über den CAN bus, ich habe allerdings keine ahnung wie das bei anderen PICs ist, oder ob du dann den 4685er brauchst. Fader+ Taster kombinieren: der Fader ist ein analoger input, der taster ein digitaler. wie wäre es, wenn du alle deine schritte dokumentierst? das würde ich interessant finden, da sich mir wahrscheinlich die selben fragen stellen wenn ich mir demnächst eine MB64 baue.

cool!! thank you!

mmm, well housebreaking is a crime, after all. so i think if these items can be found on ebay he can have the police do further steps, like interrogating the seller, as one can assume that there might be other stolen things to be found, too. fortunately it's very likely to be noticed if a 6582 appears on ebay. good luck man.

wenn du DIN oder DOUT nur zum teil bestückst musst du darauf achten, dass du trotzdem alle notwendigen brücken einsetzt. es kann sein, dass das nicht alle sind, vergleiche am besten die schaltungen mit den board abbildungen auf ucapps. ich würde sagen einen eingang der nicht existiert, kann man auch nicht auslesen. du kannst dir ja auch einfach nur ein DINx1 bauen zb. und die ein- und ausgänge die du am ende benutzen willst musst du ja eh in der firmware definieren. wenn das alles miteinander übereinstimmt, müsste es funktionieren. ich habe mir aber auch noch keine MB64 gebaut.

ja du kannst auch nur einen teil bestücken. du brauchst egal wie du es machst immer nur einen gm5 chip. so hat nILS es gemacht bei seinem prototypen: vergleiche einfach mal das gm5x5x5 modul (genaue beschreibung findest du in der wiki) mit dem normalen gm5 modul und dem erweiterungsboard auf ucapps.de, da siehst du ganz genau was du wirklich brauchst für einen kanal. es haben auch schon leute so teile gebaut bevor es diese platinen gab. die threads musst du dir aber selbst raussuchen. wenn du irgendein passendes adapterboard für den gm5 chip auftreiben kannst, kannst du das ganze auch auf lochraster machen. es ist ja keine große schaltung, nur das smd bauteil erschwert es ein bisschen.

du kannst über nILS die schicke große platine bekommen, aber auch zu einem kleinen preis, finde ich (8€ für 5 ein- und ausgänge ist wohl kaum zu schlagen) also, die kleine mit einem midi ein- und ausgang (grün) scheint es gar nicht mehr zu geben. wenn ich es richtig verstanden habe, kannst du einen gm5 chip zu zeit direkt bei TK über pm bestellen. für die große GM5X5X5 platine musst du dich hier in die liste eintragen. wenn genügend nachfrage ist, wird wohl der nächste run kommen: http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=gm5x5x5_pcb_bulk_order

only the parts from mike's are for about 147€ alone, if you buy them from there, unassembled. i know a 20x4 black on green LCD is about 32€ from conrad. i don't know about all the sparkfun and farnell stuff but to me it seems that 250€ is already a good deal. i can't afford the whole bunch at the moment and actually don't need it also, but if you have sth left in a few weeks maybe i need a core and the lcd then, for an appropriate price of course.

true! i'm very happy with the crimping tool! btw this tool also works perfectly with these connectors, used for the microswitches in arcade buttons:

i also got some windows from Twin-x that i don't need. it's 1x 6582 and one set for the MBseq (2 windows)

"would consider"

but you'd better have posted it in the fleamarket section

i can see an advantage in combining orders, for example when what you need for yourself already requires registered shipping and customs declaration, because you need so much and all. it might be also not interesting for some people to have full parts kits of everything when they have most of the parts already in stock or prefer e.g. machined sockets over regular ones etc. i'd like to try Smash's DIN and DOUT pcbs, as they really look more comfortable to deal with than the regular design, not only because of the blocking caps on the top side but also w/r/t terminating and cascading, which turned out to be a pain in the ass with the ucapps design, at least for me (i.e. the termination in the Seq V3 cascades). but for only some pcbs it's surely easier to just go ahead and order for myself. i've ordered from smash in the past and will do in the future. maybe not as much as others might have, as i live pretty much in the 30km range of Mike's. so the big advantage for ME in buying there is instant access, i.e. if available i can have what i need on the same day. but even though i have most standard parts in stock i still buy full kits, as i'm even too lazy sometimes to go and search for one or two missing components or wait for a reichelt order the next week to be able to complete a module. well after all i don't have an opinion about where people should buy their things. i'd even recommend etching your own boards and/or modify the existing to personal needs, as a very good learning experience, and it would be cool to be able to talk about such things without necessarily having the feeling that something's not ok, or not fair.

i thought the remainder are reserved for GM5x5x5 buyers. but nevermind, i can wait for the next run as i have one gm5x5x5 working. and there are still chances that i might find them again in my pile of parts- just not in the ic boxes, that's sure.

i can give you a red one. actually i need them myself but i have to wait for the next gm5 group order anyway, as i can't seem to find my remaining chips anymore since i shared some of them last time... if you like pm me your address. i'll put myself on the list for the next color then price would be as i got them from nILS, plus shipping

hi! there are some long threads on that topic here on the forums where you can find a lot of info. there has been work on pcb layouts but if i remember right there is no final design. you can do your own on perfboard or design one that fits your needs and have it produced. there's one service i know that can produce your proto for you, PCB Mike who runs the german midibox store: http://www.mikes-elektronikseite.de/

i haven't tried it yet but if i'm not mistaken you can make a blog in your profile.