Futureman

Well, I guess you could easily do an experiment, put an ice cube in a glass... when it melts, does the level go up or stay the same? Oh, but I guess that would all be redundant considering that the south pole is ontop of a landmass....

Huh some people are living in denial? Wow

I agree, I can't imagine many situations when you would really 'need' to provide automation for your master fader.. Regards Mike

But Who?!?! But Who???

seconded...

sold!

Did you get the baseboard parts kit? That can include the PICS Regards Mike

Hey there, I wanted to midify my Korg PolySix, and did it with this kit. http://www.angelfire.com/geek/srlabs/p6retro2.html well worth it... only reception of midi... just notes. Sure, this is for the Korg PolySix... but they might have a very similar keyboard / scanning / connection. Regards Mike

Yep.. I posted it at work.. Pictures are a coming.

Moving along..

http://shop.ebay.com/items/?_nkw=HD44780&_sacat=0&_fromfsb=&_trksid=m270.l1313&_odkw=20x4+LCD&_osacat=0 Regards Mike

Lol.. I don't think you would need to impose a 3/127 of a mm accuracy... seriously, whats the difference between aftertouch value of 1, compared to 7? But, yea, it seems like software calibration probably would be in order.. Small things to consider might be the fact that magnets from adjacent keys would effect the sensors not under them... but then again, how often do you play C and C# and D at the same time while using the aftertouch on C# and not the others? Unless you like the psycho violin theme riff lol. Also, maybe watch out for the inverse square law of the magnetic field... Keep us posted. Regards Mike

Hey there, Cool idea. I'm not sure calibration would be thaaaaat important... It's aftertouch after all.. Say, you want to lift out a note from a chord you held down (Via filter or volume).. is it really that important that it's aftertouch sensitivity has exactly the same response as other notes.. if not, then you could sure save yourself a bit of work.. assuming you have a reliable way of placing the magnets (And sensors) in the same position? Even velocity sensitivity is not hugely important to me (Well calibration wise).. have you ever used a Rhodes or Wurlitzer electric piano? FYI the Korg Sigma uses a hall effect device for it's aftertouch, but it's just boring aftertouch, not poly... The SCI Prophet 8 used optical sensors for it's Poly aftertouch & velocity I believe.. not sure what the Yamaha CS-80 used. My 2 cents anyway..

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Hahahaah I wonder what I'll be asking next week?

I was thinking that would be good for the 10 way cables, but with regards to the stack of 3 ways... hmm.... thinking... Regards Mike

Some parts have been glued in place.. No connectors on either end... Sorry, I should have given a more detailed description earlier. Trust me, Like I said, I would take it apart if it was possible.. Regards Mike

Sheeeeesshhh.. you think i would not cut them unless I had to... ;] Well... the way it was assembled, it makes access difficult.. Think of a clam/oyster.. I need to get it upen, but cables are holding it tight.. I need to cut the cables to get access to it's insides, then fix it, then close it. I was hoping for some mid cable type headers etc.. but have not seen anything that fits the bill. Cheers Mike

Hey all. I'm looking for an elegant solution to joining ribbon cable mid length with ease... Basically, I've got a a few runs going all over the place, and I need to cut them to take apart my synth. Some of the cables are 8 way, some are just 3 way.. any easy ideas? Regards Mike

seconded (Or was that thirded?) My sequencer crashed when I had a week powersupply and all the LED's & screen light were on. It was fixed with a beefier powersupply. Regards Mike

Yes... machined sockets.. good call. I've never really tried to repair digital stuff until today.. so much progress while nursing a hangover... pretty much fixed the delay which I'm stoked about.. I then attacked an old LinnDrum that I had been given for free (it was busted) and it looks like I now know whats wrong with that sucker too (The Crystal oscillator / clock circuit is toast).. aah.. progress. Cheers for your input. Regards Mike

I'm in the process of fixing up my semi working Delta Labs DL-4 delay, and making good progress.. I've fixed one fault (dying Tantalum) and pretty much diagnosed another fault (Faulty 4011 CMOS). My question is, with one of the PCB's, It's a total arse to get out etc.. too many jumpers etc. This raised a small thought, if I cut out the old IC, and removed the remaining pins etc, and wanted to solder in a IC mount, do you think it would be possible to do it all with no access to the underside of the PCB? I was thinking about getting one of those long wire wrap IC holders, cutting the legs a bit, and solder it so it's base is a fraction above the PCB, and use the solder to 'wick' to the underside of the PCB. Has anyone done this before? Any thoughts? PS - If this is in the wrong category, please move/remove. Regards Mike

I use mine to cut lasers.. Is there anything they can't do?

I've heard of people manually grinding the top of LED's to get that.. depends on how many you want etc.. but for each LED, you prob could do it with some coarse sandpaper and a DIY tool to get them exactly the same. Regards Mike

Which sequencer? If it's a MB sequencer, make sure that you are using the midi out that comes from the core and Sync out is enabled, NOT the IIC modules as these can't spit out sync.. Regards Mike