jojjelito

ZX Spectrum cases look fantastic still in this day and age. Spectrum 128K with the visible heatsink looks like expensive UK hifi gear. Congrats on your build!

Congrats on your SID-101! It's looking mighty fine!

Mucho appreciated, thanks for taking the time to sort this! Kudos!

Aww, I didn't mean to be sarcastic :console: Sorry 'bout that. The question just baffled me. Anywho, direct voltage (always on) is another option, discrete transistors, transistor arrays (3046, or ULN 200x for larger loads) etc are there for the sidmonster to look at. Or, use CD4000-stylee logic (DON'T confuse with 74HC4xxx!) like so: RG Keen explains.

Plus the jewel case plastic is brittle and scratches when someone looks at it the wrong way :hmm:

There's this thing called a transistor :geek: Just saying.

Ahh, you're seeing it like that. My idea was that any adjustment sanding should be done on the front panel hole - but that's something we want to avoid if we can. Guess that we won't have any sloshing around if one uses a bit of superglue magic. Instead we get grime buildup galore in the small crack between the plexi and metal...

The office Mitutoyo slider concurs with those measurements on my front panel. The trick wrt tolerances here is that if we get the window top made to 82.95mm by 31.95mm we'll end up with a piece of plastic that sloshes around. If the plastic is cut exact to boot, we can easily sand the panel cutout in case it's just a hair-width too small. Then again, I'm no mechanical engineer so the esteemed reader should feel free to enlighten us all if you're in the know.

You might want to look into getting a 2x16 LCD for debugging and display purposes while developing. Suppose for instance that you may want to store a few presets of what the controllers do, MIDI channel setup for your controller etc. It's only a few euro/dollars/pounds. Your "switchpots" are rotary switches. Look at getting some Lorlin CK-series rotary switches (1pin per pos), or get some Grayhill mechanical encoders like the 25LB22 (16pos) if you rather need an easy (few pins) binary interface. The Lorlins are usually 12-pos, but you can set the number of stops yourself to suit. Cheers!

Mmm, looks tasty! Wonder what the final pic in the box will look like? A time lord you say, but the question is: Are you justified and ancient, and do you come from Mu mu land? Bring back KLF and resurrect Tammy Wynette while you're at it :sorcerer:

No ref here either, but Alps RK09L (RK09L114001T) with all metal shafts are stiffer. Some Alpha or Taiwan Alpha pots are way stiff, search for those to suit if the Alps is not OK.

凄ã„ã§ã™ã­! That's orsome! é ‘å¼µã£ã¦ãã ã•ã„! (gambatte kudasai). We wan't some iThingy/Androgyny pixx taken with Hipstamatic and some nasty lens/filter approximation! :drool:

This is for Wilba's PCB that uses the more or less standard TL1100F160Q switch that's also used in Sammich, Xoxbox, Shruthi and more other places than you could shake a stick at. The keycaps are available at Mouser or Digikey and are either E-switch TA12BLK, TA12BLU etc or with better grip: the PE series by C&K. Search Digi-key for PE WH, PE BK etc. Those are also found in red and gray.

Take some time and narrow down what you want in terms of mounting, resistance and type of shaft. I've used various depending on which type of project, enclosure etc. I don't know which method of mounting you would prefer, but going by the datasheet I wanted something vertical with bushing or sleeve so EVJ-Y96 and -Y91 was searched for. Produit non stocké - merde! Digi-key is easier - Search for EVU-F3L for single pots (cheat by looking at the datasheet!) and you'll get to select between Lin (control, balance) and Log (audio). Aha, not fun, you can get 5k, 20k, 50k so if you absolutely must have 10k you are SOL with Panasonic. What next - try Alpha (or TaiwanAlpha), Alps or Bourns. Go to pots and start narrowing things down - 10K, single turn, 6mm axle (actuator dia) and top adj. Select in stock. Now you're down to some 16 choices. Compare type against datasheets - oh the fun! Go with EVU-F3M and never look back. Or something. Double: EVJY-81, 91 or 96. Pick for instance the nice metal bushing EVJ-Y91F03B14 and never look back. You want another shaft (knurled or some non-metric dia)? Change the search params, rinse and repeat. Mouser: Do the keyword Alps and narrow it down. You'll end up looking (a lot!) at the datasheet for the RK09 and RK12L series. Same with Alpha: RV141F (with clear shaft for some LED fun) or... Now you know why people get minor headaches when sourcing components! Take a peek here: Mouser catalog page for Alpha or here for some Bourns love. Sorry if this sounds complicated, there are lots of choices out there for sure. And you have to iterate your search. Good luck!

Hiya! What you want is potentiometers with mid-point detent. Take a peek in the relevant pages at Digi-Key or Mouser. Search for potentiometer, then refine to say 9mm PCB-mounted, and load the relevant page that's suggested when looking at one of them. Now have fun matching the article numbers with actual inventory :sorcerer: Capisce? If not I'll give you an example later. Cheers!

Mmm, green or fluorescent green is where it's at :nuke: Wonder if that's obtainable? Laters, J

Hi all, Looking for 10-25 Re'an P401 knobs. I'm too shy to call Sulzer since they'll want me to buy 1k or more. Does anyone have a few to spare? Thanks, /J