jojjelito

I was thinking this is a PC-side operation that requires coding up some software to round up the capabilities of this solution. Just fishing to see what comes up...

Saw a package containing the piano PCM card on Evilbay. Meanwhile I started to scour my old creaky HDDs for patch banks. How to share those? Dropbox or just attach a zip? It'll take a couple more days to bring it all together. Bank God bonanza and all that jazz... /J

Haha, sell your Synth&Timeslice card on Evilbay for more money than the cost of a MIDIbox SCE The details about the cables connecting the cards to a WS A/D or EX will be interesting to see... I hope the solution won't be something expensive. Regarding the waveform conversion on the PC side, my incentive would be to add some multi-sampled waveforms treated by real analog resonant filters. That's how it was done in the olden Amiga days! Or maybe to nick some PCM data off other old, but available sample libraries from say Roland, E-mu, Ensoniq or Fairlight for some custom shine. Then again, sample playback with decent filters can be done in a PC/Mac environment fer sure, but I like the wave sequencing plus hardware offload in certain situations. I found the Card Workshop demo soft using the Wayback machine. Would be interesting to resurrect something similar, cross platform to use with your box later... /J

Hiya! This is great news to us WS-ers I have the old WS-A/D, there's apparently some kind of sample handling difference with the WS-SR (it uses the same format as the 01/W) instead of the common WS/M-series format, will your unit handle conversion back and forth? I've heard that there's more PCM data to be had for the SR, but I haven't come across any yet. This is like this mythical Zadok thingy (one was on the german Ebay just recently) but with modern storage instead of floppies. What's not to like? Now if we could only have a way to transfer our own PCM data across to the WS... There was this windows software "PCM Card Workshop" for 01/W-type cards but the site where it used to be hosted is gone... Thanks for bringing in some fresh air into these old machines! /J

Cool drums and use of FM. I like it! Care to tell what's heard and how you made it? /J

Ahh, my fuse destructor was my measuring probe so it was possible to explain and not entirely unexpected. If yours did mysteriously go bad you'd better look into replacing the PSU. Cheers, J

Hear hear! The local place didn't stock Pana or Yageo, nor Xicon/Lelon, but whatever floats your boat. What you can do if you are really picky is to match the original's footprint ( duh! - or at least lead spacing) but go higher in terms of voltage it can tolerate and temperature range, let your wallet decide. So, for starters lets assume we have old-school brand X, 220uF, 25V, 5mm lead spacing (RM), 16mm dia. Today's caps can hold more energy in a smaller volume so we could find a replacement like a hypotethical Panasonic, 220uF, 63V, 5mm RM, 10mm dia, 105°C and less height. All good? Look at the max ripple voltage if you can find it (bigger is better) and the ESR (less is better). Parametric search (Digikey works for me) is your friend here. Yields this. Lifetime 10000hrs@105°C. Much longer at room temp... You'll find that general purpose caps start to drop off and specialist brands dominate the more you tighten your search params, this can be a quality indicator, but will take a larger bite out of your wallet. Take the article name and search if you want to shop around. Best of luck! J

Replace away! I destroyed a fuse once during the build of the 6582 in the old style brick. No worries, it was a stupid mistake and no harm done. Pop out, replace and look happy

Any variant of the DSO203 (very much like the 4-channel offering from Seed) can be gotten of Evilbay for about 180USD. That's the thing I was alluding to in my post (the older 2-channel offering is far cheaper). I'm not 100% confident that the probe connectors are rugged enough to withstand plugging in and out probes over the years. Also, I haven't tried those. Would be interesting if someone took the fall and tested 'em :devil:

Sanyo for low ESR electrolythics, otherwise look at Nippon Chemi-con, Rubycon or Jamicon. Please observe that there are very different product lines from different manufacturers. Read up, and examine your needs. PSU capacitors will be optimized to withstand large ripple currents, whereas filter caps will be leaning towards temperature stability. Audio caps are not polarity sensitive etc. So, Sanyo low ESR are nice, but only good up to 20V. Aha... Looking at max ripple current we'll most likely end up with Rubycon, but this depends on where you shop. /J

The Rigol is really good for the price and I see no reason whatsoever to spend more as a hobbyist. It has worked nicely for me so far. Us geeky people with geeky jobs probably have access to better gear at work (or know someone who does) if push comes to shove. Donate old tube scopes to your local high-school or college instead - do something worthwhile for the community The OLED units are nice as a basic audio display, general fault-findning aid and for rough idea measurements. Don't use them for any kind of precision measurements though. You can get no-name knockoffs with higher advertised (not necessary useful) bandwidth of the Gabotronic scopemeters if you're really cheap - look at evil-bay but caveat emptor, buyer beware. I can't say anything about those selling those things. J

Fixed that for you! Or well... If you ever intend to build an external filterbox you'll need negative voltage as well. If you're going to run the 6582 stand-alone you'll do fine with either plus a 9VDC regulator inside the 6582 (there will be some heat dissipation in the box, maybe not optimal, but working). Cheers! J

This pinning/connection schema is the same as usual, but omit pins 3, 15 and 16. However, the 6582 apparently runs the display in 4-bit mode so you can also omit pins 7-10 if you run the display with 4-bit mode code. Hawkeye posted a 4-bit VFD driver that can be hacked into getting the Newhaven to behave. I got sidetracked on this during the server move and holidays, but I intend to post my code as soon as work begins anew and I can get back to this topic. /J

Mmm, lovely intro! Then it progresses into Craig Armstrong territory. I like it :) Cheers J

Or rather that as soon as you need to build something you'll need to move on from a bench/lab PSU at one point or another. So, it's kind of a mandatory exercise. Get some thick copper-layer photoresist blank PCBs and etch away. Good for the soul... But then again: Switcher vs a toroid or worse, a cheapo, vanilla transformer (sometimes those are adequate). It's all down to costs and engineering - there's more than one way to skin a cat (please don't take that literally!).

Hiya, As you may have read there's a new core coming out featuring, amongst other things, a USB interface plus other extra goodies. Chances are that something similar to the MB64/MB64E application will be available for this core (using MIOS32 and C-programming) over the old PIC cores using MIOS8 and PIC processor assembler. You'll most likely find programming in C a *lot* easier than assembler. Take a peek at the programming section in the WIKI, then start installing your toolchain. You'll need MIOS studio for app upload plus basic MIDI testing, a SVN client for version control - this will differ depending on your platform (WIndows, Mac, Linux or other), plus code generation tools like the SDCC compiler and an editor/IDE which again will differ depending on platform. The toolchain setup is described under the MIOS/programming section of the WIKI under MIOS8 and MIOS32 respectively. Anyway, your first experiment wil be to try to read and make sense of the source code of your application. Then modify pin declarations and the like to fit your exact hardware setup. Download into your core then troubleshoot til done. Best of luck!

Mmm, "pressening" (same in Swedish) or tarpaulin (or Abdeckplane, bâche). Cool idea! Maybe one could score some from a building site or some trucking company for added feel-good factor about recyling stuff? Use a stapling gun Then have fun with a cutout stencil and some paint to mark your gear.

Yowza yowza yowza! Looks very nice! Nice to see a case solution in pictures. Side note - lots of persons seem to have the FS1r. Interesting... We should team up against the world with those superior modules.

Gosh darn, this is so full of teh winz I can hardly contain myself! Getting female sockets tomorrow arvo just in case.

Burp! Many thanks. I never saw the mods section at xlargex. Cool!

Hmm, if I ever source moar SIDs and feel like making another I'll tack on some Hello Kitty gfx on the panel and use pink LEDs just for kicks Mr Hawkeye maded you (cookies?) an excellent tutorial to peruse while adding the LEDs. Get some gullwing LEDs or something with legs though - the pure SMD LEDs take forever to solder and give you nasty^H^H^H^H^Hsevere coffee withdrawal syndromes.

Wow! Sounds real good Care to share some of your mod details for others to follow?I could figure out how to do most of that out from your list, but I'm lazy You may already have written about those but the dedicated forum is down until further notice... Cheers! J