jojjelito
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Everything posted by jojjelito
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I have a 1.5mm thick panel too from JulianF. It should be the same as the Wilba fpd AFAIK.
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I'd be in for one too if someone can get a batch made :ike:
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Poor C64 PSU! It could only power 6 SIDs and that was before connecting the CS and knob backlights. Where did I put that 9V toroid again?
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Yes, thanks again for the help, the new PSU will be a big stress relief :) - jojjelito, tell me if I shall order a few more and mail ´em to you @ 40 cent they are not the investment :)
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or you use the LM 2576 HVT as Shuriken recommended
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Ahh, coolers. Those can be had at Elfa (expensive) if I want to roll yent another switcher. The crowbars make more sense for various bizarro experiments...
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That's cheating. The lead turd I came up with was that I wanted to "slightly" machine the bit so that it became in-plane with the front panel. The ensuing work was dangerously close to regression therapy.
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Got a nice Fluro CD case at Rusta that I Dremelled like crazy. Looks OK, but it was far too much work to be viable considering how easy it may break. Next up: A trip to some hardware supplier. There are a few who do CNC work and are willing to use leftover bits for cheap.
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These are all 1/4" shafts, not the usual 6mm, but with the right pot she'll be right. I had to stop myself from writing something size-related and lewd. What.An.Interesting.Place BTW! Like Small Bear but weirder somehow. Hmm :shifty:
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New belt color - why is there no matching OLEDz? That work.
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MMA with a heavyweight gi (suit) and belt. Just made orange so I'm still a n00b. I can haz 0r4ng3 OLED for mah Shruthi? Blacklight (UV) OLED would kick ass...
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ok, will remember to better not make jokes for healths sake then :)
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Haha, when not in the dojo - run! Otherwise the other guy will just use a knife or worse, a gun. Makes you wish you had sharks with friggin' lasers...
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Looking good! I went with the very low-profile PCB connectors at Reichelt (art 32346) for my base board to CS and hope to report back shortly when done. See the post Please note that the white ones are taller so you have to see past the nasty 70/80s' colour (it's in a box anyways). The LCD got connected with normal dual pin header like those for your other cores, no special IDC socket in my case. But, try it and let us know. It won't hurt if you can fit it. :frantics:
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Hiya, Well, I connected all the data lines. So far there hasn't been any problems but since my CS has been in flux, and not really completed I haven't really ran my MB6582 for any long sessions yet. I'm about to finish the CS (must add LEDs around the encoders, plus detachable cabling) so that I can finally take her out to sea. My CS so far has been something I veroboarded for kicks. Then we shall see about that OLED thingy... And that external filter/VCA box with a beefy PSU. Great picture BTW! You should add this to the Wiki. You have to be retarded or very very very tired not to succeed following this :logik: Cheers!
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Why won't ze illuminated Bourns encoders fit da PeCeBee? Suxxorz!
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Hi, Hmm, Chapter 7 - looks like my CrystalFonts pdf :) Since the pins match mine here we go. Please also be aware that assuming a standard 16-pin flat cable the pinning from right (Sids higher up than the cores of the baseboard) will be thus: 1,9,2,10,3,11,4,12,... up to 8, 16. Therefore we also denote cable strands like so: [x] J15_Core1 pins to display pin: 1[1]: D7 - Dpin 14 9[2]: B+ - Dpin 15 (Led+, A, Anode) 2[3]: D6 - Dpin 13 10[4]: B- - Dpin 16 (Led-, K, Cathode) 3[5]: D5 - Dpin 12 11[6]: Vb - Dpin 1 (Gnd) 4[7]: D4 - Dpin 11 12[8]: Vd - Dpin 2 (+5V) 5[9]: D3 - Dpin 10 13[10]: VO - Dpin 3 (VLDD, variable) 6[11]: D2 - Dpin 9 14[12]: RS - Dpin 4 7[13]: D1 - Dpin 8 15[14]: RW - Dpin 5 8[15]: DO - Dpin 7 16[16]: E - Dpin 6 Don't be bothered by the 4-bit mode unless your display does something really weird. Also, remember to turn the P2CoreN trimmer so that you can see something else than a blank display for Core1 and possibly the other cores if you're testing those. Good luck!
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Where are you located? I'll take the GM5x5x5 off you :P
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Hmm, there's now more options out there. You can haz OLEDs from Raystar Optronics, or from Newhaven if you shop around. Both of those come in lovely shades of green! :clover:
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MB-TIA Cartridge. Presentation.
jojjelito commented on Antichambre's blog entry in Antichambre's Blog
Ooh, retro galore! Isn't this a pain to program? Guess you'll come to that in the next installment :P The prototype box looks like a killer control for some expensive rack fx. The 2010 box looks like a pro crammed it! -
Haha, I thought it was just MIDIbox lore that blamenILS(); was the base class of everything. Little did I know of the truth. Still, see what you can negotchagate with the people of Munich, they might let you off if you bring them some Darell Lea liquorice if you're lucky! If not you have to go apologize to the pope in Rome. Enjoy Wienna before that though! Rumo(there's a u innit!)r has it that they might know a thing or two about desserts, wine and Schnitzels and likesuchas there. Prost!
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Ahh, don't be so hard on him after an ungodly long flight! If his beer_counter was unsigned zero and you -- it it will underflow, wrap around and mean that poor Wilba has to drink an entire Oktoberfest worth of beer :poke: Das ist ganz unangenehm! But "Doucheland" - God will kill a lorikeet or a koala each time that is mentioned in spite :no:
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Hiya, Your calculation seems valid enough. The problem you will face is that you can't really translate a luminous intensity value of x% into a meaningful way of expressing perceived brightness. That depends on your ambient light settings, LED color, viewing angle and distance to object, plus the number of LEDs that are lit. Hence, people of this forum have told others to eyeball it - i.e watch the box in a darkened setting in the corner of your eye and adjusting the brightness so that it barely begins to annoy you, then take it down a notch from there. So - what to do: Solder a DIL socket on the baseboard for the LED resistors, connect a pot and adjust the value between the center led and either side until you're happy. Then measure VR and select the next larger standard resistor value and go with that. Since the resistors are socketed you can easily swap them if you're unhappy. Hawkeye used something similar in the way of LEDs for his CS tutorial and he stuck with 1kOhm. I suggest you start off from there. Cheers!
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nyan nyan nyan nyan...
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Even Obi-Wan can't quite figure it out:
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probably after eating some strange pills you can find the connection :-)
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( so did who made it )
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This looks deceptively easy :thumbsup: Enjoy some resistor arrays plus SMD shift register ICs and watch your board shrink :ninja:
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Totally OT: Have you seen the iPad editor for the FS1r? Still, dedicated hardware would rock my rack (that's what she said, constable)... I guess one could freely borrow layout ideas from it if nothing else. Oh, and they have a few Waldorf editors (not the uWave) to look at. Oh, and congrats on getting a great synth - it kicks ass IMHO :afro:
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Naww, the look so cute and huggable when they're unpopulated. Great work on the etch :geek:
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It looks the business! Let's hear it sing, growl and purr :ike: Oh, and congrats to your new toybox!
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And now for something completely different: the aluminum acid experience...
jojjelito commented on jojjelito's blog entry in olga42's Blog
Hola stiltz&Rumpel, I've heard plenty of filters but I think you're on to something: the top 5 analogs are the Minimoog VCF, Korg's early MS-20/MS-10, the dual CEM-3350 of the Syrinx, the OSCar and Thomas Henry's Mankato. But there's plenty of good stuff out there :afro: The CEMs... what can I say? She's at a nice age, ripe age, ready to be killed by the thrill :poke: PS: You get brownie points for the lyrics reference (don't Google-cheat!)