Hawkeye

No problem, you can do it! :-) Btw, there is a fair chance of many switches already being at the correct position... so when you have the frontpanel on, look with a magnifying glass, which switch cap touches the aluminum, and remove only those switches with no "air" between the cap and the aluminum... if you are lucky, it is only a few of them which "block" the smooth attachment process. Bye, Peter

btw - plz record the concert, me definitely wants to see it :)

Hmm. Bad things happen sometimes, don´t worry too much... In the glueing phase it would be nice, if the frontpanel could be easily attached, to avoid messing it up with glue blobs because of "attachment tries". Also, attaching it will even get a little bit more difficult when the LEDs are in there, so it would be nice, if the tactile switches were aligned as well as possible... using flathead LEDs makes it even harder to "get them in", that is what a few people have reported... So, if you ask me, don´t throw away your CS PCB - if the switches don´t fit perfectly, just snip the four pins of each switch off directly above the PCB with a wirecutter. Then remove each broken switch. Then use a desoldering pump pressed to the front side "around the pin remainders" and your soldering iron applied to the backside and suck the switch pin remainders through... no big deal and will leave you with clean holes for soldering the switches again... should be no problem at all, but you´d need a desoldering pump. I´ve done the same thing with an encoder I messed up in the "detention phase" and it worked perfectly. Also, don´t underestimate the number of times you may want to remove the frontpanel from the CS PCB - e.g. if you want to change the display, or install knob backlight LEDs, or want to exchange a misbehaving encoder, all of which happened to me :) Bye, Peter

Hehe, very well done! Even if it was a bit more expensive manufacturing the frontpanel, you have something absolutely unique in the world nao :) Yes, you can use the 1/2 watt resistors, if they fit in somehow, maybe insert them vertically... Edit: Good idea to go for the 6.3mm mix-out out on the backpanel at once, if you don´t have it yet, you now just need to get a high-quality "guitar" 6.3mm stereo socket and you have a studio-class connector - a suitable connector is referenced in the photo tut, it is not totally cheap but great quality... Bye, Peter

Thx J and Tim :clover: The FS1r rocks the house, it really really needs a MIDIbox Patch Programma, it failed back in ´98 or so because of the bad user interface :) Bye, Peter

Proudly spamming the songs & sounds section with my first "real" music video :) The plane was flown by myself and "spotted" by a friend. This is necessary to avoid unwanted contacts with bypassers or police helicopterz :-). Audio was captured live from a v-synth and a fs1r fm mothership and was sequenced by the almighty mbseq v4 :). Please watch in fullscreen/HD Enjoy the trip and thanks for watching :) Peter

Danke ADK! Der FM Chipsatz ist heute wohlbehalten angekommen :-) Ciao, Peter

You´re not alone - my gf keeps b****ng about all that electronics crap, wires and black boxed ic magic stuff being scattered all over the appartment, useless in her eyes :), space is at a premium everywhere :unsure: - worst thing is i recently "lost" two pcbs and cant find them anywhere, now to avoid partnership problems i´d better not ask if she´s seen them :) Keep it up and many greets to NYC :) Peter

Thx for the clarification, so we still need a high-quality switcher for the "digital only" 5v supply - in that context I´d still see room for a 7805 + big heatsink + crowbar circuit - mda asked for a reference - i use the one from retro donald which works fine for me (there are better ic-based solutions out there, though): http://www.retro-don...wernetzteil.php Many greets, Peter

Isn´t the ground from the 5V switched supply shared with the 9v/12v analog ground from the 78xx in the mb6582? Wouldn´t that affect the sound quality if we had a low-freq 5v switcher? Sorry for that noobish question, but I´ve been wondering about that for some time nao :) Greets, Peter

Hi Josh, great to hear that it successfully runs on 3.3V and that you can switch it to 2.5V mode - when I continue to work on it, i´d like to try that too, because it would make connecting it much easier, just as you said. Banding may be because of the "guesswork" timing initialization - I randomly played with the values for a few hours until I got a more or less "stable" picture, could not get one with default Newhaven values. I played around with the following seven parameters, by manipulating them via mouse on the big computer and sending them to the microcontroller via MIDI (its MIDIbox :), it was TKs idea, without him, these displays would still be dark ;-) - you can get fancy "strobe-like" effects with the right parameters, very demo-like - so if you have a means of external communication with your uC (or some on-board encoders), you could try it :) 1. APP_LCD_Cmd(0xb3); // Set_Display_Clock(0x91); APP_LCD_Data((u8)midi_package.value/2); 2. APP_LCD_Cmd(0xca); // Set_Multiplex_Ratio(0x3F); APP_LCD_Data((u8)midi_package.value/2); 3. APP_LCD_Cmd(0xb1); // Set_Phase_Length(0xE2); APP_LCD_Data((u8)midi_package.value/2); 4. APP_LCD_Cmd(0xbb); // Set_Precharge_Voltage(0x1F); APP_LCD_Data((u8)midi_package.value*2); 5. APP_LCD_Cmd(0xb6); // Set_Precharge_Period(0x08); APP_LCD_Data((u8)midi_package.value*2); 6. APP_LCD_Cmd(0xbe); // Set_VCOMH(0x07); APP_LCD_Data((u8)midi_package.value*2); 7. APP_LCD_Cmd(0xc1); // Constrast Current APP_LCD_Data(midi_package.value*2); Have lots of fun with the display! Peter

+1 on the desoldering pump - i own a huge low-tech variant for 2.40€ and after two years it still works very well, the seller has exorbitant shipping rates to usa, but maybe you find something similar on ebay? it is about 30cm in size :) http://www.reichelt....a98e97ce366cef7 Many greets! Peter

Hi there, please be aware that you need +5V / +12V / -12V for the SEQ + AOUT module, which is not provided by the product in your first link. I used this one, but I am not sure how bad the switchmode supply affects CV output, gotta scope it @ some point in time, probably you can filter/smooth the switcher ripples with caps... http://www.reichelt....113;PROVID=2402 Bye, Peter

Hi, thx for your work, i´ll gladly take one set, you´ll have mail soon :) --- Hoi, danke für Deine Arbeit - ich nimm mal ein Set, bekommst gleich eine Mail :) Peter

Btw. you can do it! :thumbsup:

Hi Acul, wenn Du das genauso über das USB-MIDIInterface empfängst, dann passen die Note-Events und Dein MIDI-OUT funktioniert, der SEQ spielt rythmisch die Note "3D", sollte C#4 oder so sein :). Thorstens Vorschlag bezüglich der MIDI-IN Bestückung beim Shruti sollte dann weiterhelfen! Ciao und einen schönen Abend, Peter

Jupp, habs grad gesehen und oben editiert :) Sorry... könntest Du mal Dein USB-MIDI-Interface mit dem PC, den SEQV4L MIDI OUT1 an das USB-MIDI-Interface-IN stecken, das USB-MIDIInterface in MIOS-Studio aktivieren und im Sequencer auf "Play" drücken? Welche Hex-Codes werden dann im "MIDI IN" Monitor dargestellt? Edit: Der MIDI Channel sollte standardmässig 1 sein, wenn ich nicht irre :) Ciao, Peter

Wenn Du Dein USB-MIDI-Interface in MIOS Studio eingebunden hast und mit dem SEQV4L verbunden hast und Du nach dem drücken von "Play" Hex-Codes vorbeiziehen siehst, dann sendet der MIDI-Port. Edit: hab gerade gesehen dass Du Dein MIDI-Keyboard schonmal mit dem Shruti verbunden hast und das lief... was stehen denn für Hex-Codes im "MINI IN" Monitor-Fenster vom MIOS Studio, nachdem Du auf "Play" gedrückt hast? Ciao, Peter

Hi, wenn ein paar "Step-LEDs" an sind, müssten nach "Play" Notenevents gesendet werden, richtig. Wenn Du andere MIDI Hardware hast, könntest Du testen, ob der MIDI Ausgang damit geht (hast Du den richtigen der vier Ports gewählt?). Wenns damit auch nicht klappt, schau doch nochmal das LPC-Coremodul an, vielleicht fehlt irgendwo noch ein Baustein oder eine Lötstelle ist unsauber... Ciao und viel Erfolg, Peter

Hi Josh, Welcome to MIDIbox :) not getting the display to "lighten up" using the default Newhaven datasheet init commands has been experienced by a few people by now - could you try the custom initialization, which I´ve written with TKs help some time ago? See APP_LCD_Init() and try the same Command/Data pairs on your display: http://svnmios.midib...322%2Fapp_lcd.c Regarding 2.5V on the data lines, we fed it with 3.3V accidentally for some minutes, would not fry the unit, but that may have been luck - agreed on the need for a stable 2.5V supply though (use caps to buffer). You would not need a full video buffer for using the display, you can directly draw on the screen, as long as you can write blocks of 4 pixels (2 bytes), overwriting the background pixels on that location. Bye and best of luck! Peter

Absolutely! Unfortunately the nice update speed of the scope beam cannot be transported via youtube video :)

Thanks Tim, it is just an old 20MHz scope - should be good for almost everything up to 2MHz digital because of the harmonics or so - it is a Hameg 203-5 from around 1986 :) - about 50 bucks on ebay. I think that it is nicer for audio waveform display than those new TFT scopes, as it has no resolution limitation and also has that nice bright beam, which you can use to attract your cats or other house co-inhabitants :) Greets, Peter