Hawkeye

Coole Sache! Pollin.de bietet die Displays übrigens für 2.95€ an! :-) http://www.pollin.de...n_DG_14032.html Bezüglich der Ausgabe laut Datenblatt werden immer 2 Bytes = 16 Pixel an die aktuelle Adresse geschrieben, wenn Du mal int x, y; for (y = 0; y < 32; y++) { APP_LCD_Cmd(128+y); for (x = 0; x < 18; x++) { APP_LCD_Data(0xFF); APP_LCD_Data(0xFF); } } machst, solltest Du einen "vollen" Screen bekommen, richtig? :-) Ciao und viele Grüße! Peter

With the 6582 SIDs and the faceplate you can ask for i ´d say at least 700 USD, me iz sure you will find a buyer soon, especially if bundled with the eight 6582s and the waldorf knobs :) (Sorry, Ilmenator :)) On the other hand, i´d recommend to build it, it is a synth worthy of a timelord :sorcerer: Bye, Peter

Nice! :-)

The small SMD parts should normally not be necessary. Bye, Peter

Nice find! While this is a DIY project, it shows, that it is really about time, that the major synth manufacturers start remaking their iconic retro synths in a non-emulated way :). What would people give for an enhanced FS1R with easy-to-use user interface, a new full-analog Jupiter 8, or an improved Andromeda?

Hi Daniel, there is a shopping list of parts on the LPC17 page on ucapps.de - you can get the PCB and the parts from SmashTVs shop, and you can get the LPC module from many resellers (including mouser). http://ucapps.de/mbhp_core_lpc17.html http://www.midibox-shop.com/buy.html Regarding latency, the LPC17 MIDIO solution will be as quick as possible (the limit is not the processor power, but the limited bandwidth of the MIDI wire protocol). A cascade of three standard MIDI mergers should be pretty quick, too (latency most likely will be unnoticable), if you prefer that solution, but the LPC approach is much more universal - you can add things you may need later and have great MIDI routing capabilities... (including up to four MIDI OUTs) and a "free" MIDI interface (USB port included). Bye, Peter

Happy Birthday, Wilba! :clover:

Hi, you could build a LPC17 core module, enable MIDI IN3 and MIDI IN4, and install the new MIDIO V3, which has an inbuilt MIDI router, that can nicely be configured via display/tactile switches: http://ucapps.de/midio128.html This new input/output MIDIbox is very flexible and also allows to forward/route MIDI to ethernet/OSC, so you can network all of your MIDI equipment (if necessary, just build another MIDIO V3). Have lots of fun! Bye, Peter

The referenced connectors might be a little bit too large, there is really not much room in that area of the case, especially if the connectors are upright and not angled - you could try with a temporarily screwed in CS board and the baseboard and a "dummy connector", with the size from the datasheet, to see if it would fit... On the other hand, I really would not make both ends detachable (it is a bit overkill imho), but of course, it is your choice... Bye, Peter Edit: I don´t think these connectors are much bigger than orange_hands, they may just fit, if you have the coin, order two full sets of them and if it does not fit, you can always fall back to soldering to headers + shrink tube. Don´t forget the crimp pins themselves and a crimp tool, if you don´t have it yet... it is well worth the investment :)

i´d recommend to order a panel with corner holes and some manga line art, but your mileage may vary :)

Hehe! Good choice, you will love them when they are backlit, especially after dark :smile:

Recommendation: use Rutger´s fantastic patch editor/librarian. It allows to load patches to (computer) memory, view them on screen and then send them to MBSID "buffer", meaning it is not stored on the bankstick and then save it where you want it, if you like it. You can also manage whole banks of patches. Great tool! Bye, Peter

Thanks orange! Regarding the PSU, you should follow orange_hands very nice guide for an integrated switcher/ac psu - easy to build, efficient and noise-free - or maybe follow Altitiudes nice on-board switcher approach, just do not use an original C64 PSU, it may burn your valuable SIDs if the old voltage regulator goes berzerk :) Bye, Peter

Thx for the information, and congratulations to that build! It looks awesome and very compact! :sorcerer: Greets, Peter

Er wird sicher nicht kaputtgehen, ob die Drehzahl jedoch stimmt, ist fraglich :-)

Backlight ´em - looks fantastic :)

Which MIDIbox do you have? Most of them have a usable MIDI IN :)

You´ve got a few options: http://www2.mouser.c...1z0wxosZ1z0wxp7 My choice would be to solder the cable to the baseboard side (eg solder it to normal headers, then use shrink tube to protect the individual pins from touching each other), and attach/crimp a plug to its end. Then use a rectangular socket on the cs board, the link above lists a few plug/socket alternatives for eight pins with 2.54mm spacing... be aware that there is not much room though, the smaller the better :). I like these sockets, for example, but you also need corresponding plugs with crimp pins, ofc :) http://www2.mouser.c...UNWgEEmG64gM%3d Bye, Peter

Great job, man! *smiles* :sorcerer: Bye, Peter

Cut all pins directly above the frontside of the pcb with a wire cutter - use a desoldering pump from the front - heat from the back with your soldering iron - when heated, suck away pin remainders and solder remainders one by one. This will leave you with clean holes for resoldering the part. Greets, Peter