latigid on Posted June 27, 2020 Report Share Posted June 27, 2020 Here is the "minimum system" with +5V in red, 0V in blue. Also PA11/PA12 as before. Try pulling off the diode too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antichambre Posted June 27, 2020 Report Share Posted June 27, 2020 (edited) Maybe stupid but... A faulty usb cable? The one you use with LoopA is necessarily different from the one you use directly with the waveshare, so...On sait jamais ;) Edited June 27, 2020 by Antichambre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Altitude Posted June 27, 2020 Report Share Posted June 27, 2020 Just now, Antichambre said: Maybe stupid but... A faulty usb cable? The one you use with LoopA is necessarily different from the one you use directly with the waveshare, so...On sait jamais ;) tried 3 different ones Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antichambre Posted June 27, 2020 Report Share Posted June 27, 2020 (edited) Just now, Altitude said: tried 3 different ones Obviously ;) Anyway, this problem is fascinating to follow, what a suspense, we can not wait to discover the outcome ;) I hope it's not too much frustrating for you! Edited June 27, 2020 by Antichambre Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Altitude Posted June 27, 2020 Report Share Posted June 27, 2020 (edited) Solved! And this is some crazy ass shit too: I was friction fitting the core with the mainboard to see if removing the TVS fixed it (it didnt) so the plan was to try the temporary headers like andy suggested with the minimal setup but my trimmed down, solder coated ones were not fitting the sockets i had so I decided just to put new headers on the core, not a big deal, suck out the solder and pull the pins out one at a time. When I did the first row and pulled off the plastic header there was a fair amount of solder where the plastic was (like it puddled there). I just ignored it thinking it was from the desolder gun and cleaned it all up but after the clean up, and new headers, it fired right up. In hindsight, there was way more solder there than should have been, I was sucking out solder through one end and pulling the pin out through the other, what was left there after I removed the plastic was in the shape of the plastic header like a mold, there is no way that came from the desolder gun especially since it sucks solder out or from any other soldering I did since those were on the other side of the header. I checked all the IO pins for shorts to ground and +5 but NOT to each other which seems to be what was happening here, must have happened in the wave machine when those headers were soldered on at the factory. Just dumb luck i decided to replace those, I would have never found it otherwise, should have taken a picture Edited June 27, 2020 by Altitude 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Antichambre Posted June 27, 2020 Report Share Posted June 27, 2020 This has to be reported to the Waveshare team for their QC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latigid on Posted June 28, 2020 Report Share Posted June 28, 2020 7 hours ago, Altitude said: Solved! And this is some crazy ass shit too: I was friction fitting the core with the mainboard to see if removing the TVS fixed it (it didnt) so the plan was to try the temporary headers like andy suggested with the minimal setup but my trimmed down, solder coated ones were not fitting the sockets i had so I decided just to put new headers on the core, not a big deal, suck out the solder and pull the pins out one at a time. When I did the first row and pulled off the plastic header there was a fair amount of solder where the plastic was (like it puddled there). I just ignored it thinking it was from the desolder gun and cleaned it all up but after the clean up, and new headers, it fired right up. In hindsight, there was way more solder there than should have been, I was sucking out solder through one end and pulling the pin out through the other, what was left there after I removed the plastic was in the shape of the plastic header like a mold, there is no way that came from the desolder gun especially since it sucks solder out or from any other soldering I did since those were on the other side of the header. I checked all the IO pins for shorts to ground and +5 but NOT to each other which seems to be what was happening here, must have happened in the wave machine when those headers were soldered on at the factory. Just dumb luck i decided to replace those, I would have never found it otherwise, should have taken a picture Wow, what a saga! I'm really sorry that you had to go through all of that. I'll discuss with Peter as to how we can compensate you for the trouble. It's the first time we've seen something like this and of course it will be reported to the manufacturer. Seems like fab errors crop up from time to time but it always sucks to get stumped by them. Well done again for sleuthing it out. Hope the rest of the build goes better. Best, Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Altitude Posted June 28, 2020 Report Share Posted June 28, 2020 (edited) no compensation needed. I know how these things go. I wish I could have found the actual spot where it was shorting, it definitely wasn't a board problem since I did inspect the underside pins after I cleaned it off and it worked with the new header so that only leaves the solder bridge and that fits the symptoms. Checking for shorts to adjacent I/O pins would have identified the issue, might be worthwhile to spot check a couple in inventory to make sure it was just a fluke and not a batch thing. anyway, that's that. Edited June 29, 2020 by Altitude Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phatline Posted July 6, 2020 Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 is there a alternative forhttps://www.mouser.at/ProductDetail/te-connectivity/5-534998-5/?qs=xDp7PGUNC%252bs6ZU%2FXKidt5w==&countrycode=DE¤cycode=EUR this part bis delaying most of my parts.... 21 weeks leadtime Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Altitude Posted July 6, 2020 Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 any 10 pin female header that style will work, the height on that one wont matter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phatline Posted July 6, 2020 Report Share Posted July 6, 2020 (edited) ok when height dont matter than this is the only replacement at the moment: (2,54mm, 2Row, 10 Pins, Female, Thruhole, without cutting a more pinned header...) https://www.mouser.at/ProductDetail/3M-Electronic-Solutions-Division/929975-01-05?qs=bX1%252BNvsK%2FBrGbqaIqQvrfA%3D%3D i phone mouser now.... to change my order... want to start solder ;) not to wait. EDIT: mouser munich - nice - ok will get it soon ;) thx Edited July 6, 2020 by Phatline Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latigid on Posted July 7, 2020 Report Share Posted July 7, 2020 Your proposed part substitution should work. Check the interboard spacing: 16mm M2 spacer 3M FF header socket 8.26mm TE thru-board header 6.5mm 14.76mm, you have >1mm to spare. FWIW I've used large strips of FF sockets for years, just cut down with a dremel-like tool and you lose that position as the tool "melts through". But it works fine and is cheaper than individual sockets of the right size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j4ustin Posted July 11, 2020 Report Share Posted July 11, 2020 Hey all, I've gotten most of the loopa put together over the past week, but my screen will not start. The loopa boots up ok and enters test mode. I can trigger the button presses and am seeing responses from the side leds. There does seem to be an issue with the pots as when I push them in they don't register the same as the buttons. Not sure where to look to try and debug this further, any help is appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latigid on Posted July 11, 2020 Report Share Posted July 11, 2020 Hi, Maybe the jumper powering the display is not installed? Could you post a photo of both sides of your Core PCB? Best, Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j4ustin Posted July 11, 2020 Report Share Posted July 11, 2020 (edited) Sure. Thanks again for the help. Also, sorry if some of this is messy, I'm still getting my feet wet with larger scale projects. Edited July 11, 2020 by j4ustin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latigid on Posted July 11, 2020 Report Share Posted July 11, 2020 Seems mostly good but I would check the soldering on the waveshare pins again Is the 10uF capacitor correctly oriented? Probably it is but I can't tell from your picture. What is the voltage at the reset pin (should be +3v3)? Below is the J15C pinout. You can check for interconnections at the top of the waveshare pins. I.e. make sure that you get contact all the way through. Net N$9 is the chip select signal that goes to pin 15 of IC2 (also check the soldering there). And here is the same for the display/plate with the connections labelled. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j4ustin Posted July 11, 2020 Report Share Posted July 11, 2020 Thanks @latigid on. I'll look into all these pointers and will report back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latigid on Posted July 11, 2020 Report Share Posted July 11, 2020 Ah, one more thing: make sure that you use a decent PSU for the USB/power. If the PSU is weak or noisy you might get unstably power for the display. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j4ustin Posted July 11, 2020 Report Share Posted July 11, 2020 I checked for continuity between the J15C and the waveshare pins then all the way to the display from the j15c on the bottom of the board. All of the connections are being made correctly and the reset is showing 3.3v as well as the 3.3v header on the display itself. There is continuity between the Net NS9 and the IC2 header 15 pin as well. Another symptom I noticed that could be related to the screen is that my pots and buttons are only sometimes triggering the lights as registering input when testing with a jumper on the buttons or pushing down the encoders. That behavior makes me think that maybe the two might be related since the connectivity between the screen and the waveshare seems intact. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
latigid on Posted July 11, 2020 Report Share Posted July 11, 2020 Hmm, did you try reflowing the joints? How is the unit being powered? Is the LoopA firmware loaded? Are you running in test mode (no SD card)? You could check the above-mentioned pins for shorts to 0V/3v3 or even to each other, so check a) adjacent pins on the J15C header and b) pins on the waveshare breakout, Happy to take a look at the soldering of the other boards. You can also load MB_NG and check if your DIN is working as expected from MIOS Studio (set debug on). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j4ustin Posted July 11, 2020 Report Share Posted July 11, 2020 (edited) Just now, latigid on said: Hmm, did you try reflowing the joints? How is the unit being powered? Is the LoopA firmware loaded? Are you running in test mode (no SD card)? You could check the above-mentioned pins for shorts to 0V/3v3 or even to each other, so check a) adjacent pins on the J15C header and b) pins on the waveshare breakout, Happy to take a look at the soldering of the other boards. You can also load MB_NG and check if your DIN is working as expected from MIOS Studio (set debug on). I reflowed every joint and checked the soldering on pretty much every header. im powering with a usb into my computer. Have tried with 2 usb cables and a usb wall jack as well. validated the loopa firmware is in there. Can see the io options in my daw with the loopa plugged in. it is in test mode. I’m seeing the light cycling as in the video test mode. The side screen leds all light up and the button leds all cycle through correctly as well. I’ll check for shorts and the din next. Edited July 11, 2020 by j4ustin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j4ustin Posted July 11, 2020 Report Share Posted July 11, 2020 Here are the other pcb's. These came out cleaner than the base. Maybe I missed something, but I've been through the video feels like twice now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j4ustin Posted July 11, 2020 Report Share Posted July 11, 2020 Got it! Turns out i cut a trace between the j15c header 4 and the pc9 header on the waveshare. Must have missed that test when I was going over it earlier. Still have the encoder issues, so that's next, but feeling better about this though. Going to have to look closer to ensure I didn't cut any other traces on the board which may be causing the encoder / button issues. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hawkeye Posted July 11, 2020 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2020 @j4ustin good progress! Just wanted to recommend to use a scope (or even a DMM) to see if there is proper digital data arriving at every OLED pin 4, 7, 8, 16 and 17. If you've got the display and the LEDs sorted, you're mostly there :) Cheers! Best regards, Peter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j4ustin Posted July 11, 2020 Report Share Posted July 11, 2020 Yeah! Feeling better now. Any tips on where I could look to fix encoder presses and button presses? None of those are registering with the boards. I am seeing the led's all lighting up for both the side of the screen and the buttons. I also see the animation for LoopA Testmode Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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