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Posted

Thanks Bruno and Altitude! :)
Altitude, will send you the acrylic case display cutout dimensions via PM or email shortly.

Best regards and have a nice sunday!
Peter

Posted

@Altitude as requested, we've now released the acrylic frontpanel plan as a SVG, as another customer wants to create a custom 3D printed case and asked for it.

There is a 3mm "size indication" in the SVG, which can be used as a reference for scaling on your side.

The plan is linked on the bottom of the "caseless" LoopA shop page:
https://www.midiphy.com/en/shop-details/139/69

Direct link:
https://www.midiphy.com/files/d14/LoopA%20Acrylic%20Case%20Frontpanel.svg

Have fun and best regards!
Peter

 

 

Posted

@Phat, that sounds great! :cheers:
At some point in time, the LoopA software will probably get a CC track type, but it will never be as powerful as your dedicated CC Looper, that can just use the full STM32F4 memory for that single purpose :)

Many greets,
Peter

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Posting this in case I forget it.
I couldn't receive a response from the Core using MIOS Studio 2.4.6 which i downloaded about 2 years ago.
Using the latest version 2.4.8 allowed the core to respond and I was able to upload the firmware. :happy:

 

CCve-GaEAu859Zh8uCqAkeZTUf86O0INstj_BvA5

Posted

When pushing down the Headers for the OLED I noticed that the top of the 8 pin DIN for the BLM got in the way despite filing off the "nip" as Peter put it. I had to file the corner / back of the connector off at an angle even further so the standard SIL pins would have enough clearance. 

Maybe my connector is slightly different to the one Peter used in the video? It sure looked the same, as it has the metal tab on front that needed to be filed down. 

Case goes on tomorrow morning and I should be done!

Posted

Nearly there, cool!

Could you post a photo of the clearance issue just to confirm? You mean that the soldered row on the rear of the plate PCB still conflicts? Did you trim the pins before soldering as suggested? Maybe more trimming is needed?

That DIN8 is actually EOL anyway so we need to see how the replacement looks.

Posted (edited)

I have the row soldered and cut already but ill take a photo so you can draw imaginary lines down to the connector with your eyes! :grin:

Ill take a photo and upload it at 9am GMT.

Edited by Smithy
Posted (edited)

Photos aren't the best, I should really use an endoscope! But hopefully you can see it was necessary to trim the back upper corner of that connector. 

IMG_20191217_092939.thumb.jpg.b795dfa36dIMG_20191217_092803-2.thumb.jpg.6cf65400

Edited by Smithy
Posted

Wohoo, congrats to the nearly completed build @Smithy! :)

Also thanks for your photos!

I just measured with the caliper and think there should be >2mm of clearance, if the 8-pin connector has been filed "flat" at the top:
The OLED pins should be cut close to the PCB, that is very true:

a6f1942a5c0ed805dc12bf4a61e48b96.jpg

We are aware of space restrictions within the case, but wanted to create a really slim DIY device, so this is on purpose! :)

Many greets and enjoy your new LoopA!
Peter

Posted (edited)
11 hours ago, Antichambre said:

It seems bottom of the metal enclosure will be blue ;)

Shhhh! Its a secret! ;)

Guys i think the I was sent the wrong sized nuts for the rear acrylic panel where 2 nuts slip into the slots.
The nuts have a 3mm height and will not fit.
Luckily I have 3mm nuts with a height of about 2.3mm that will do the job nicely.

 

 

IMG_20191217_115907.jpg

Edited by Smithy
  • Like 1
Posted

Congrats to the finished build, well done! :)

I think you are right with the M3 nuts for the case interlocks, these should be low-profile nuts and we probably have packed normal-sized M3 nuts in the first kits.

We'll contact all customers of the acrylic kit variant and (if required) send them eight replacement nuts!

Other than that: hope the build went well for you and that you enjoy your new toy! :)
Many greets,
Peter

Posted

Thansk guys!
Yes even a noob like me can reproduce which is a good sign and will hopefully inspire other newbies! ;)

By the way, all images have been fixed in my previous posts.
I tried the right clicking, "copy image" and pasting from google images which caused the problem.

This usually works fine on other sites but not with Community Software forums apparently.

Posted

Here's the time lapse video i recorded of the LoopA.

 

I gave up on the solder paste and hot air method early in the build, as the solder paste I used didnt come with a plunger and my plunger was a bit too narrow.
I have officially converted over to drag soldering now and its much faster.
When I soldered the Mattias switches the recording stopped as a calendar notification popped up on the phone!
Luckily its 99% of it is there!
Thanks again to everyone involved, 
everyone is credited at the end of the video.

  • Like 1
Posted
Just now, Hawkeye said:

@Smithy, super cool and very nicely done! What was your total time to build it? 8-10 hours? Now awaiting your first official jam with it! :)

Many greets!
Peter
 

Lost count!
Friday i spent most the day, saturday a half day, Sunday a half day, Monday most of the day, and finished it before lunch on Tuesday.
But i take my time with things like this, and encountered a few problems like trying to fit the microcontroller in and cut all the legs!
I think i was being overly cautious with cutting those pins as close as possible.

Posted

Happy holidays! :)

Here is a sneak preview of the upcoming 2020 LoopA "Pro" Metal Case, designed by Hallik Engineering:

large.LoopA-pro-metal-case-s.jpg.7b7fff2

Hope that you like it and that the first LoopAs out there are already being built and maybe are even already used! :)

Have a relaxing and healthy holiday season!
Best regards, Peter

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Good afternoon, I introduce myself, my name is Juan and I currently reside in Spain.
I'm a noob to synthesizers and music making gadgets, and when i saw loopA i knew i
wanted to have one. So, little by little I was saving somemoney and after several
emails with Peter, I decided to buy the device and finally I managed to build my
loopA. Thank you very much to the team involved in buildingthis project.


With your permission I am going to use this forum thread to ask my questions.

I have problems to use software synth soft via virtual USB MIDI port. 
Configuration: windows 7. midi controller keyboard to computer and loopA to
computer too. But dont work. ¿any suggestion?

 

 

inputOutputODSay.png

loopA.jpg

setup.txt

  • Like 1

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