doc

Sorry cimo, ... it's just me again. Here are the wikipedia items of Firewire with a lot of useful links and information: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/FireWire hope this helps. greets Doc

Hi, I'm pretty sure this is possible for someone with the skills to change this in MIOS ( so ... not for me ::) ) You have to change the circuit a little bit so that a free port of the core (or a dout) via transistor can switch the power of the lcd on or off. The rest is programming a timer and a recognation for pressing a switch .... Funny feature: You also could switch on the display when receiving a midi event. Or you can change the color of the display by a special event .... As a workaround on this issue just wire a switch between the +5V VDD. Switch your display on if you like and switch it off if you don't use it ... ;D greets Doc

Hi, The specs. directly from the IEEE1394a (Firewire 400, Apple): 8 to 33 VDC, 1,5 A, max. 48 W Thats the theory. But be warned. As you already recognized from the apple web site: Not all Hosts are providing the power mentioned in the specification. I would not recomment to take any power directly from the Bus. Some thoughts on that: - As IEEE1394 Harddisks become popular many Users reportet defect mainboards. Today almost every external Firewire HDD has is own power supply ... - If you you have any short in your box you surely will destroy your mainboard. Fuses are mostly not fast enough for this issue. This noise you also get from the firewire Port because of the switching power supply. Just give your box a solid nice wallwart and you won't have to think about all those bad issues ... ;) greets Doc

Hi ... and welcome on board. You are on the right way. Looking on your diagram just a few thoughts: - You won't need a DINX4 for just 3 Encoders. A single DINX (only one IC) is also suitable (you just need 6 ports for three encoders) - You won't need a DOUTX4 for 9 led digits . You just need three DOUT (3 ICs). For the digits take a look here : http://www.ucapps.de/midibox_lc/midibox_lc_leddigits.pdf Of course, if you order premade pcbs you have to take the 4x items. But if you handwire the circuit or if you build the pcbs yourself you can save some parts. Thats the hardware. Yep! ;D I think so. ::) greets Doc

Hi, Sure this can be done. The standard for this purpose is 0 ... 10V DC for the lightning control. So you have to adapt the CV Outs for this. I would only do this if you have a lot of 0..10V Dimmer you want to control. If you build it new from the scratch, it's better to use DMX for the control lines. greets Doc

Hi, I'm pretty sure, you can replace it. As mentioned in the datasheet the only difference is the DC current Gain hfe. It is quite low for this type. But I think this doesn't matter for the lcd purpose. greets doc

Hi, The ULN2803 is just a driver for the load (in your case lamps). You'll have to connect them after the 595. Just as mentioned here: http://www.ucapps.de/midio128/relay_example.pdf No... see the link above. Just substitute "relay" with your lamps. But also take care on the max. load of the ULN outputs. See here: http://www.ucapps.de/midio128/uln2803.pdf greets DOC Both would be possible. It's easier with software. Doing it by hardware means you'll have to connect a timer (555 for example) between every 595 and the ULN.

Hi, eigentlich keine große Sache... Du mußt nur den letzten IC auf der Platine weglassen und statt dessen einen Bankstick verkabeln. Wichtig ist dabei nur die Adresse, die Du in dem Bankstick verlötest. Es darf sie nicht zweimal geben. Beim Datenaustausch mußt Du dann halt die richtige Adresse für den Bankstick aus Deiner Applikation ansprechen. greets DOC

Hi, if you like to build the midibox LC for cubase you won't need pots. But for the transport (esp. the jog wheel) you should have at least one encoder. You won't need to build the whole controller. Just pick out the parts you like to control. I'm working now for almost three years with my double LC under cubase. It's really worth the effort! Just read through the midibox LC section and find out what you'll need. Don't be scared by the many functions you would be able to control by building the full box. As mentioned above: Just pick out the things you need and give it a try. @DavidBanner If you're building a LC with 8 Motorfaders (..when you want motorfaders you'll have to build the LC...) you can forget about the pots and the grounding isue.... there aren't any pots ;) greets DOC

Hi again, I think, you write faster than I think ... Let me try to sort it: What do you mean? Do you mean you are unable to extract the mios .zip file after download? ??? You'll need the described .hex files. Otherweise what will you send to the pic? ??? Please be a little exacter! Where are system resets (your PC, MIOS studio, Core or what) ?? Also Where do read active sensing: In the Midi Monitor of MIOS studio, on the lcd or where? If it's a shitty but not faulty computer it should take less than a minute (normally a few seconds). BTW the upload speed didn't depend very much on the computer speed. (midi is midi is midi ... ::) ) Another hint before you try to Upload: Have you already read the Midi Troubleshooting at http://www.ucapps.de/howto_debug_midi.html ? You should take the time to test your equipement with this guide. After finishing all the suggested steps you should have a verified midi connection between the core and your computer. Finally: I think, I speek for the community when I tell you: Please be so kind and ask questions with a little more describing words around your problem. Nobody can give an exact advise if you just smash word fragments in your posts. ;D greets DOC

Hi, If you already have the bootloader on the PIC you must not load the file bootloader_v1_2pic8f452.hex ! If you want to load MIOS on a preburned PIC you'll have to load mios_v1_9c_pic18f452.hex (Read the README in the folder mios_update_v1_9c). And please don't forget: You have to start the upload of MIOS within the first two seconds after power on the CORE! So .... be quick! greets DOC

Um es auf die Spitze zu treiben ... Ich befasse mich auch schon länger mit einer Matrix, die allerdings auch Audio-Signale verteilen soll. Die Reed Lösung ist mit Sicherheit die Einfachste ... aber auch die Teuerste. So würde man für eine komplexe Matrix (möglichst noch symetrisch) 512 Reed Relais benötigen. Ich experimentiere derzeit mit einer Schaltung, die über CMOS Schalter die Audio-Signale verteilt. Der Vorteil ist sicherlich der Preis, da ich mit einem 4066 bereits 4 Schalter habe oder mit einem 4053 drei Umschalter. Zum Vergleich: Ein Reed Relais kostet bei Reichelt ab 1.05 €, ein 4066 oder 4053 0,18ct, also 0,045 oder 0,06 ct pro Schalter. Das macht jetzt bei dem Einzelpreis nicht den Riesen Unterschied ... Aber bei 128 Ein-und Ausgängen kann jeder für sich mal nachrechnen ... Nachteile dieser Schaltung sind, neben dem komplexen Layout, die symetrische Versorgungsspannung (wir schalten Audio - also muß ein Offset da sein ...) und die komplexe Logic, die ein "Falschschalten" bereits hardwareseitig verhindern soll. Auch erwähnen sollte ich, daß zum Schalten der CMOS Schalter 5V zu wenig sind, so daß man die DOUTs trotzdem über ULNs "treiben" muß, um z.B. mit 10 oder 15V zu schalten. Schuld daran ist ein Verhalten der Schalter, das die Größe der Schaltspannung in Abhängigkeit mit dem schaltenden Ausgang bringt. Für "rauschfreie" Verbindungen oder größeren Headroom muß, neben der sym. Beschaltung, auch die Schaltspannung möglichst hoch sein. Zielvorgaben sind u.a. auch, das offene Signalwege konsequent auf Masse geschaltet werden. Dies kann man entweder mit 4053 erreichen (Umschalter) oder aber mit über Inverter verkoppelten 4066ern, die den invertierten Schalter jeweils auf Masse ziehen. Derzeitiger Stand meiner Entwicklung sind diverse Testaufbauen, bei denen ich das Verhalten der CMOS Schalter austeste (Soundqualität, Layout, Rauschabstand, etc ..) Bei allgemeinem Interesse veröffentliche ich gerne meine Endergebnisse, wobei ich dann auch sicherlich wieder einige Programmierhilfen benötige ... greets Doc

Hi, um Relais mit dem DOUT Modul zu schalten, musst Du noch "Treiber" verwenden. Der Strom eines Relais würde das DOUT Modul sonst killen. Sieh mal unter MIDIO128 nach. Dort findest Du einen Schaltplan, wie der ULN (Treiber) mit dem DOUT verbunden wird. greets Doc

Hi, bei 5 Euronen das Stück bin ich dabei...da lohnt ein kleiner Vorrat! Ich hätte gerne 10 Stück. Sag Bescheid, wenns losgeht. greets Doc

No, you don't. If you just want a peak LED it should be possible with some coding. The easiest way would be to take the normal meter circuit (http://www.ucapps.de/midibox_lc/midibox_lc_ledrings_meters.pdf) and just leave out the leds you don't use (no coding then ... ;D.) ... just count by yourself. (http://www.ucapps.de/midibox_lc/midibox_lc_buttons.pdf). Take the master DIN layout and strike out the switches you don't want. You can change the assignement of buttons, leds, encoders . The assignement in MIOS can be easily changed by editing the file lc_io_tables.inc (for buttons and leds) and mios_tables.inc for the encoder positions. greets Doc

Hi, If you mean buttons assigned to the LC part of your box: No, your sequencer is using those buttons for several functions. You just can test what is happening when pressing a button (under the LC protocol). Or the documentation of your sequenzer is telling you what will happen if you press a button... I think you will run into a problem: If I get you right, you plan to use the channel strip functions of the LC and the 4 band EQ is coming from several 64E's. I think, this will work as long as you don't push the channel or group button of your master LC. Then the assignement of the controlled channels will change and I don't have a clue how you will change the assignement of the channelstrip EQ Encoders. If your song-projects don't have more than 24 channels this will be no problem ... You get me? You'll then controlling channel 2 of your sequenzer and channel 1 of your EQ in the same channel strip, if I'm right. Perhaps MIOS or your sequenzer can control this but you also have the problem that you will be having a lot of CORES to control .... (e.g 4x24 EQ Encoders x 3(F/g/G) = 288 Encoders = 5 Cores, 24 Channel strips = 3 Cores... or did I misunderstood the EQ thing?) The buttons (Transport buttons, Jogwheel, aux, Track, Group ....) are also controlled by the sequenzer. I once coupled them with diodes in a 2xLC Box because older versions of Cubase didn't support a Master/slave configuration of two LC. Newer Versions of Cubase are suppurting the Master/slave configuration (so I cutted the diodes out again...). That means you just have to assign the buttons to the master LC. The slave buttons will follow the master. You don't need common buttons (and DINs) in the slave Boxes. If your sequencer supports more than one LC you can forget the diode thing. greets Doc

Hi, Das kommt darauf an, wie du misst... (Ich weiß... alte Bastlerweisheit...: Wer misst misst Mist ...) 8) Der 220 Ohm Widerstand ist ein STROMbegrenzer, kein SPANNUNGSbegrenzer (Vereinfacht ausgedrückt). Wenn Du also (ohne Last) nach dem 220 Ohm Widerstand misst, so kannst Du schon 5V haben. Dies würde lediglich bedeuten, dass Dein Messgerät selbst keine (oder eine zu geringe) Last produziert (Was eigentlich für das Gerät spricht ...). Wenn Du bei leuchtender LED misst (Spannung an der leuchtenden LED), sollte eigentlich ein geringerer Wert angezeigt werden ... greets Doc

Hi, I also think the Pled Displays are the best. But (I may be totally wrong, please correct me...) didn't these display have the problem with a limited lifetime? greets Doc

You're right. The gain is mainly controlled at the front panel. But you can control the input signal afterwards in the total control mixer of the multiface. Under normal circumstances at a life performance you regulate the gain at the soundcheck and you normally don't have to change it. But you are able to control the input signal (or output signal after routing). greets Doc

Just a sitenote: You could use a RME Multiface as "Soundcard", so you have the Total recall mixer (and 0-latency!!) Then you connect e.g a behringer ADA8000 via ADAT/SPDIF and you have 16 Ins/Outs, 8 Ins with mic preamp . Totally controlled by a Midibox LC (Total recall fully supports our midiboxes). I tested it. It works great and you don't need a "big" sequenzer software like cubase just for the mix. Another benefit is the monitoring feature in the total control mixer. You can route signals much more comfortabler than with analog desks. I'm using this setup in my studio. I must say, this could also be a solution for a life gig. But I still prefer old analog stuff on the stage (.... no bluescreens and exeption errors during a gig !) The only thing is: You don't have midi-controlled EQ's. But I'm sure theres also an solution ... e.g. Reason 3.0 ... greets Doc

Hi TK, ... I also think it's time to say "thank you" for all. I hope you don't mind the payment is at 5001 (I couldn't afford to stay up all night till you break the mighty 5000). greets Doc

Hi, No, it isn't unsmart, but .... ... if it's a metal case (or a metal frontpanel): It's dangerous. You have to pay attention to a couple of rules then. You have to take care that under no circumstance a life wire can touch the metal case or another part inside the box. You have to "earth" the box. And several others... Yes, this would be smart! Don't forget. It's fun building a midibox but it can kill you if you play around with main power , especially if you don't know what you are doinig... greets Doc

Hi, You can't use a 5V transformer. The 7805 needs some volts more to regulate. It should be minimum 7V, better 9V. The transformer should deliver about 1A, better a lttle more (1,3 or 1,5A). The max current of the regulator is 1A. Often forgotten. Fuses for the transformer: A fast blowing fuse primery and a fast or medium blowing fuse secondary. The fuse values depend on the transformer. This prevents your box (or your transformer) from dying, when something went wrong ... And also don't forget: If your enclosure is out of metal you should'nt use a internal transformer if you don't know exactly the safety rules for doing this. If your case is out of metal .... take the external transformer.It's for your safety! greets Doc

Hi, Wie seppoman schon sagte ... es ist der gleiche Transistor. Wenn die Bauform gleich ist, dann ist auch die Anschlußbelegeung gleich. Gruß Doc

Hi, two more questions on that: - Do you use the same powersupply for PC and Burner? - How did you get 22V out of the power supply (Connection)? I also think you have built a shortcut. Thats why the fan starts and the ps stops working. greets Doc