stryd_one

Oh BTW... CF = Orient.

No I disagree, I wasn't saying that these should be avoided, just expressing my frustration at -all- LCD manufacturers and their tendency to 'fix up' the images. No matter whether you are buying a $5 LCD or a $40 LCD, the marketing shots all look like a PLED. You never really know what you're getting until you buy it and solder it up, and by then it's too late for a refund if they aren't as-advertised. It sucks! But it's nothing wrong with these LCDs in particular. It's a general problem with the industry. Sorry but I don't believe that for a second.... Even the PLEDs don't look that good!

Ahh the whole story - always helpful ;) I wonder if you've considered counterweighting the pedal? Could be a bit less mechanicaly difficult... Course, there's always Lego Technic!

Heya Echo.... I'll want to try them out first, and I would prefer different actuation (caps), but I might be in for a few hundred of these. The soft tactile are like normal keyboard switches (If you've used a Maltron then you've felt them), the normal tactile are clicky ones. Personally I HATE tact switches so the clicky ones are not the ones I would want. Have you considered keyboard switches from other manufacturers? Why'd you settle on these? As for the heights, I'll leave it to you to read the datasheet ;)

Alarm bells mayyybe.... but they all do that photoshop crap >:(

Gav: I know, but Jai was talking about the 2044 W: I meant, you quoted my question but playbo$$ answered it already :) We needed that link in here for sure though, danke!

There really ought to be a law against photoshopped LCD pics ;D

Trade secret, huh? ;)

Maybe take a look at your browser/RSS setup... My FF advertises the RSS feed to me with a little orange icon in the address bar, and it shows up in a list of feeds available from this page in my infoRSS reader menu...

Additive (aka Fourier Synthesis) is done with sines.... 24 harmonics would be interesting, but there are better tools for the job IMO, and it would require extremely high speed control of each oscillator, which I don't think the design will fully cater for.

Wilba: Scroll up dude we did that already ;) Jai: I don't think there's much point cloning them when they're so readily available at such a low price ...

Well it seems the OP has vaporised so who cares ;)

Awww that was good advice, even with no pic...there was good stuff there about how the layout effects your hand usage :( Speaking of which I still dun like the centred jog :/

Actually that's why I'm not going for the CF LCDs... I want to get the same colours for all my midiboxen, and that's not possible with CF :(

Ahh the poles are exposed at the cap pins, cool. Thanks PB!

Sorry mate you replied to a crosspost&hijack (not your fault) and I had to do a cleanup... It's : Re: Organ Swell Shades Control

That's brightness and it's only relative to other light (that's where contrast comes in), so it's environmental :) See the banter in that old lighting thread about space shuttle cockpits and the like, for the juice...

I have three on here; the ucapps one, the wiki one, and the forum one. http://www.ucapps.de/rss.xml http://www.midibox.org/dokuwiki/feed.php http://www.midibox.org/forum/index.php?type=rss;action=.xml Alas the wiki feed is broken since recently.

Come to Australia,we need rain!

I got a datasheet here with my stack of 3372s and it says lowpass only :( I know you can do tricks to turn lowpass into high, but that means no resonance. I tried to find any mention of this project, to see what the deal is, but cant :(

Yeh because you suddenly appreciate how close you came to not being alive! ;D I mean *whack*. PS Whack is wack. Long live the smileys!

This may not apply to the rest of the world (don't know if this stuff can be had overseas), but... just for the Aussies... Don't be fooled into thinking that because you heard "mahogany' and 'walnut' and the likes bandied about on the net heavily, while you rarely hear of jarrah, does not mean it's the best stuff around. In fact, not by a long stretch. Even the cliched jarrah is harder, stronger, more dent and scratch resistant, longer wearing, less brittle, closer grained than the best of overseas timber, and just as pleasant to behold (moreso in my biased opinion). Speaking of pleasant to behold, the aussie timbers also give you a selection of very attractive grain patterns which are generally only available in african or south american breeds (jungle goodness). Even in the same species you can find various colour phases and grain types. http://images.google.com.au/images?q=mallee+burl I won't share my secrets about the really good timbers (whch are rare and generally not needed except for special purposes), I'll let you do your homework... But take the hint - aussie timber is the best in the world (sorry guys). The only thing that comes close is a critically endangered Amazonian rainforest breed which is illegal to buy and sell ;) Buy Local timbers, if you're able to. Deforestation and the like have jacked the prices up, so reclaim if you can. :(

You guys ought to sign up for the RSS feed....

Not that it matters but just for the sake of it, my arp was based on the vX not the clockbox... I did use TK's ASM optimised BPM-timer period routine, but that's about all.